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i Invoicing tlie Goods as tliey are Packed i 



Practically all the foremost cotton and prints mills, bleachers 

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is absolutely infallible in its calculations, and at 
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mind, the reason for this preference is not hard 
to find. Machines are made to add quarters, 
thirds, halves and eights, and we equip machines 
to automatically count the pieces while listing 
and counting the yardage. *] The new booklet, 
" Burroughs System for the Cotton Business" fully 
describing the new system for use in cotton and 
kindred mills, will be sent on request as soon as 
published. 

FJ^EE TRIAL. — We will gladly place a BURROUGHS ofi 
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HENRY D. MARTIN. 



THE 

ECONOMICAL AND SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT 
OF COTTON MILLS 



By 

HENRY D. MARTIN 



AUTHOR. INVENTOR, COTTON MILL MANAGER 
MEMBER OF THE NEW ENGLAND COTTON MANUFACTURERS' 

ASSOCIATION 



Copyright 1905 
Illustrated 



PUBLISHED 

BY 

H. 1). MARTIN 

MIDDLETOWN, CONNECTICUT 




.Wh'i 



<- 






X^V 



^O 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

Two Copies Received 

MAR 22 1906 

1^ Copyright Entry 
CLASS OC XXc. No, 
' COPY 6, 



TO MY MANY FRIENDS 

THROUGHOUT THE COTTON MANUFACTURING WORLD 

WHO TAKE AN ACTIVE INTEREST IN THE 

ECONOMICAL PROBLEMS OF 

THE TRADE, 

THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

IN ADMIRA TION OF THEIR RECORD 




PREFACE. 

Having been urged to publish my writings into volume 
form, the author is pleased to offer them to the trade in 
permanent style, with the hope that all who read this book 
may realize more fully the advantages of studying the 
economical problems of the business. The keen competition 
with which the trade is confronted, demands strictest atten- 
tion to the subject of this book. There have been many 
excellent volumes published on cotton manufacturing in 
general, giving rules and tables, so that the author of this 
work has found it unnecessary to enlarge upon this field of 
the business. Therefore this work is confined mainly to the 
economical problems of the trade as applied to management 
in cotton mills. 

The advertisements under each cover of this work, have 
been most carefully selected, and like the subject matter, 
they bespeak of the highest economy, and are in keeping 
with the volume. 

The author begs to acknowledge indebtedness to his bene- 
factors who are well known successful cotton manufacturers. 
Credit is also due and is extended to the trade papers for 
their liberal patronage, courtesy and permissions, including 
Fibre and Fabric, The Textile World, Record, Boston Journal 
of Commerce, Power, Trade Press List, The Book-Keeper, The 
American Wool and Cotton Reporter, and The American Cotton 
Manufacturer. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The thoughtful manufacturer hardly needs an introduc- 
tion to this book. He knows the value of searching the 
files and tracing out the points of economy which he most 
needs to study. A glance at the contents reveals a list of 
chapters on a variety of subjects touching economical 
management. 

This work is intended for a handbook, giving practical 
talks on practical subjects, showing methods and rules 
whereby an executive, in any capacity, may post himself 
more clearly in regard to his business, and learn more per- 
fectly the duties of his various lieutenants, thus bringing 
about a higher degree of economy and rendering their ser- 
vices altogether vastly more valuable to their principals. 

Although this work is prepared from a cotton manufac- 
turer's standpoint, several of its chapters, such as How to 
Save Power, Management of Help, etc., are applicable to 
any textile industry whether Cotton, Linen, Silk or Wool. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

1. The Practical Man in a Cotton Mill 7 

His Characteristics ' 7 

In the Picker Room 10 

In the Carding Room 12 

In the Spinning Room 15 

In the Weaving Room 17 

The Management of Help 20 

Taking and Giving Orders 24 

The Practical Man has a System 25 

2. The Value of Reading the Textile Papers 27 

The Worth of a Trade Paper 28 

3. How TO Get the Job 31 

4. How to Straighten Out a Cotton Mill 34 

Proper Way of Changing Numbers 46 

Neglected Parts of a Spinning Frame 48 

5. How TO BE AN Ideal Fixer 51 

6. How TO Prevent Mill Fires 53 

External Causes 53 

Internal Causes 55 

7. Costly Experiences Prevented 59 

8. Office Training 62 

Organization 66 

The Pay Roll 66 

Correspondence 67 

Purchasing Department 68 

Receiving Goods 69 

Advertising and Incoming Orders 69 

Manufacturing 70 

Sales 71 

Shipping 71 

Exchange 71 

Profit and Loss 72 

Stock Account 73 

Tenements, Farming and Provision Stores 74 

Welfare Work 75 

Engineering 75 

Cost Finding 76 



6 CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

9. How TO Build a Bobbix of Yarn 80 

10. How to Reduce Waste and Bad Work 84 

11. How to Save Power 88 

12. The New Belt Management with Cling Surface 92 

13. An Accounting System for the Power Plant 94 

14. How TO Maintain Production 105 

Weave Room Production 107 

15. The Operative Value of Spindles 109 

16. Economy in the Use of Supplies 112 

Ring Travelers 112 

Lubrication 113 

Dollars and Sense 116 

17. The Practical Management of Ring Twisters 119 

18. Cone Belts 126 

19. The New Overseer 129 

20. Some Improvements of the Future Cotton Mill. (A 

Prophecy) 132 

21. Unusual Cotton Mill Problems 136 

22. The Work of the Cotton Mill Suterintendent 146 

Section I. Introductory 146 

Section II. Manufacturing 151 

23. The Cotton Mill Office 163 

24. The Burroughs Adding and Listing Machine 183 

25. Mirthful Yarns 194 

26. Comparative Cost of Manufacturing 198 

New and Old Machinery 198 

27. How TO Prevent Labor Strikes 200 

28. Testing Strength of Yarns 204 

How to Ascertain the Breaking Strength of Threads.. 204 

29. Counts of Yarn 207 

The Proper Method of Keeping Numbers in a Cotton 
Mill 207 

30. The In\tentor's Business — His Characteristics 216 

Record of Forms 216 




I. 



THE PRACTICAL MAN IN A COTTON MILL* 

HIS CHARACTORISTICS. 

The practical man in a cotton mill, as a rule, has risen 
from the ranks, and by Yirtue of his careful training 
knows his business well enough to render valuable ser- 
vice to his company in the capacity in which he is em- 
ployed. Whether he is a textile school graduate and is 
a carder, spinner, weaver, finisher, master mechanic, or 
an all-round mill man, if he knows how to do things well 
enough in his respective department, or in all depart- 
ments in general, to manufacture the goods required 
economically, maintain production, quality, and prop- 
erly govern the help under his care, he is fully Avorthy of 
being classed as a practical man of his business or 
branch of the art. As the success of a mill depends en- 
tirely upon the practical men working within same, there 
is always an active demand for bright, energetic, practi- 
cal men to shoulder the responsibility of its various de- 
partments and to keep operations under their proper 
basis. Then, naturally, it follows that these men com- 



*Published in "Fibre and Fabric." 



8 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

mand heavy salaries, and as a rule are well paid for their 
services. That the practical man should be extra well 
paid is no more than justice. He has given years of 
closest application to his work. In following up his 
daily routine as bobbin boy, third hand, second hand and 
finally assuming charge of a department, he has made 
great sacrifices. With him it has been ''line upon line,*' 
and ^'precept upon precept." Often he has been called 
upon to put in his dinner time to fix a belt or tighten a 
pulley, and work nights to make up some shift that 
would keep the department running. However, in time 
there is an opening, and this brave, uncomplaining 
young man rises a step, until step by step he reaches a 
place where money, higher honors and independence as 
well as hard work join hands. Xow we come to an in- 
teresting situation. The young men look up and see the 
practical man reaping his well earned reward, and each 
long for his turn to reach a similar goal. This spurs 
the ambitious young man to ask himself, how can I make 
myself more useful and increase my value? How can I 
become a thoroughly practical man, so that in time my 
labor can be a valuable asset to any company who em- 
plo^^s me? It is the purpose of this article to answer 
this question and help the aspiring young men upward. 
At the same time the practical man may find some help- 
ful hints for himself and be also cheered and amused by 
the wa}' as he peruses the following chapters with the 
rising young men. In undertaking to assist the young 
man who longs to become practical, the best advice that 
can be given to him is to observe how the ideal practical 
man works and imitate him. "When in Rome do as the 
Eomans do." Our aspiring young man should study his 
business as well as the practical man and improve upon 
the practical man's methods if possible, and the practi- 
cal side will grow with the man. The practical man is 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 9 

our best teacher and a worthy example to follow. We 
will study his characteristics, qualifications, how he 
takes orders, how he gives orders, how he engages his 
help, how he manages his help and how lie does many 
other things. In the first place, the practical man 
knows his business. He knows how to work and is not 
afraid of hard work. He has been tried and not found 
wanting. He is not a perfect man, but his qualities 
have been tempered by large experience. He is in his 
business to succeed. The word ^^failure" cannot be 
found in his vocabulary. He never becomes stranded 
over any situation. No matter Avhat comes up he is ever 
ready to grasp the situation and protect his company's 
interests and exercise justice toward all concerned. He 
has an admirable way out of every difficulty. He real- 
izes his position ; knows the value of all the litte things 
and insists upon having every mischief straightened out. 
He has a determination to overthrow every defect that 
would defeat the making of good work. He remembers 
the lessons of his youth and recollects that ^'For the 
want of the nail the shoe was lost, and for the want of 
the shoe the horse was lost,'' also that it w^as the leak in 
the dam that caused the great flood. He has a fertile 
brain, and is a good thinker and reasoner. He uses his 
head with his hands, has foresight, improves the meth- 
ods; plans, lays out his work; keeps everybody busy, 
and takes deep seated pride in following up details to a 
finish. He knows where the weak spots are, and keeps 
his finger on these sore spots until the difficulties are re- 
moved. He is a good manager of help, keeps them inter- 
ested in their Avork. He has them well organized, and 
has a system and place for everything. He does not 
overburden himself. His principle is that it is better 
to keep 10 persons busy than to try to do the work of 
10 persons himself. Being a practical man, he is not 



10 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

obliged to carry a "magic wand" to "bluff'' his help. He 
has good judgment and is a good judge of human nature. 
He is courteous, has a large heart of sympathy and is 
ever ready to explain the whys and wherefores of the 
thousand and one things that may come up. These are 
some of the characteristics and qualifications that make 
him a successful and much sought for man in his busi- 
ness. Having mentioned many of the virtues of the 
ideal practical man, it may now prove of much interest 
to narrate how this kind of a man applies himself to 
some of the various duties of which he may be called 
upon to perform as carder, spinner, weaver, finisher, me- 
chanic or superintendent. 

IN THE PICKER ROOM. 

In the carding department, the practical carder is not 
afraid of the picker room and will always give this place 
a generous call in making his rounds. He considers 
that this section of his charge is as important to the pro- 
cesses as the boiler room is to the steam plant. One 
cannot be neglected more than the other. He is a good' 
judge of cotton. He has not only consulted the text- 
books and studied its cultivation, growth and texture, 
but he has a trained hand a trained eye, and knows its 
characteristics by the feel and appearance of it. He is 
very particular about his mixings, and makes the most 
from the cotton given him to be run through. He also 
understands picker room machinery, and knows how to 
adjust their parts according to the stock that must be 
used; the air currents; in which direction the fans 
should revolve; speed of fans and beaters; draught of 
machines and weight of laps : these do not puzzle him, 
for he knows his trade and can't be fooled. He is not 
afraid of picker-room dust getting on his clothes, or to 
take some within his system. Neither is he afraid of 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 11 

getting black oil on his hands, or on the end of his nose, 
while feeling and ^^nosing" around. He will, when nec- 
essary, roll up his sleeves and show the young section 
man how to make a good job. The young man, who 
would rise, will welcome with open heart this opportu- 
nity to learn from the ''boss." He will listen atten- 
tively and do as he is told. The broad-viewed practical 
man is not afraid to teach others for fear that his job 
might be taken from him by too many job seekers who 
have learned it all. He knows that the world was made 
large enough, and that there is plenty of room for all to 
live and grow. He diffuses knowledge without worry- 
ing about his position. It is only the narrow-minded 
man who suffers from this disease. 

The learner will observe that the practical carder takes 
good care of the picker room. Cleanliness is his first 
order, and he has a place for everything. He keeps the 
machines clean and properly oiled. In regard to setting 
the beaters and grid bars this has to be entirely governed 
by the nature of the stock used. Short stock requires 
closer setting than long stock. By watching stock that 
comes out, and waste thrown under machines, the adjust 
ments can be made to accomplish results wanted by the 
management of the plant. The practical carder runs his 
fans in the same direction of the beaters, and no faster 
than is necessary to lay the stock on the screens without 
wasting stock. He also insists upon having good, re- 
liable help here, and makes as few changes as possible. 
He gets his old hands accustomed to making good mix- 
ings, thus insuring smooth running work in subsequent 
processes. What is meant by a good mixing of cotton is 
a fair average of the line of cotton to be put through well 
broken open by hand or by machinery, and from three 
days' to one week's supply ahead has been considered 
satisfactory by most mills. These mixings work best 



12 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

when they have stood one day or more before using. This 
gives a chance for the stock to become well aired and re- 
stores the equilibrium; i. e., the excessive moisture, if 
any, will become more or less evaporated, and if too dry 
and brittle it obtains a better working tenure. The car- 
der then who is a practical man makes a great deal of 
his picker room and keeps it as he does the apple of his 
eye. He has every lap weighed that comes off from 
finishers, and all that vary over one pound from the 
standard he re-works. Thus it is seen that he begins to 
keep his numbers in the picker room giving all the work 
every advantage before commencing to card the stock. 

IN THE CARDING ROOM. 

That the carding department requires a thoroughly 
practical man at its head, goes without saying. He does 
not wait to be told that something is wrong. He is alert, 
never neglects his rounds and notices each card daily. 
He loves his cards as a shepherd loves his sheep, and sees 
that they are cared for accordingly. With him each 
tooth or point in the clothing is a tool which has a func- 
tion to perform, and he knows that each point must be 
sharp to properly perform that function of plowing be- 
tween the delicate fibres and delivering them straight to 
the cans. He has studied the juxtaposition in which 
their surfaces must be adjusted, and not only insists 
that they should be set right, but sees to it personally 
that they are being set right, and working according to 
the uniform plan of one who knows his business. If he 
has not been brought up in the card room from the ranks, 
or taken a textile school course, he has, at the least, 
served enough years at his trade to learn the business. 
No matter how much he has read, or studied from 
theory, he has also learned by actual experience at the 
cards himself under various conditions, so that he knows 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 13 

how to set cards to work the stock which he must put 
through. He has already proved his ability by his good 
works in the past, and his record is not occult. He en- 
joys the confidence of the management, and does not 
work in constant fear of being discharged. Pursuing 
deeper into our subject the learner desires some practi- 
cal points about the care of the carding engine. The 
card should rest on a floor that is well supported to 
avoid vibration, and all air vents to card closed. The 
card should be level, and must be accurately adjusted to 
gauge and the parts securely tightened into place, after 
it has been carefully ground by a competent card 
grinder. A poor card grinder does irreparable injury, 
and the practical man will not trust his cards with any 
but a reliable grinder. The grinder should be a good 
fixer, and one who expects some day to become an over- 
seer of carding upon the merits of his good works. He 
should realize, as does his superiors, that the road to suc- 
cess can only be paved by strict honesty and closest ap- 
plication to duty. 

The setting of a card is done according to the stock 
used. The card should be well oiled and kept stripped 
and clean. The great terror of the impractical man in 
the card room is the presence of electricity. Many morn- 
ings during the cold weather he has a hard time to get 
all his cards started promptly, thus losing a great deal 
of production. The practical carder overcomes this by 
having his room kept warm enough during the night to 
prevent air, stock and machinery from becoming chilled. 
He insists upon finding his department comfortably 
warm in the morning. When the wheel starts he has the 
air moisteners started. He has learned that the way to 
overcome electricity in his room is to warm the air. If 
he is running colored work, he will require vapor pots 
distributed about the machines on which colored work 



14 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

is run, so that he can counteract electricity by turning 
either live or exhaust steam into the room. While he is 
waiting for these conveniences he sprinkles water on the 
floor and drives electricity out of the place. And the 
magic fluid picks up its tools and goes to bother the 
"other fellow'' who is not practical. But the practical 
man secures all that can be reasonably expected from 
his cards, viz., smooth, clean, evenly carded stock that 
will bear the closest inspection of his critics. 

The trained carder is not only what has already been 
claimed, but is also a good keeper of numbers. He keeps 
a daily record of the weight of his laps. Those that 
w^eigh on the standard lighter than standard and heavier 
than standard are put into three separate lots, and he 
is careful to so distribute the lighter and heavier ones 
among his cards as to preclude the possibility of getting 
the work either too light or too heavy. If he has rail- 
way heads he will weigh. the sliver four times per day. 
If no railway heads, he will weigh his finished drawing 
sliver as often and keep record of same. He is a good 
judge of how the weather and odd lots of stock may af- 
fect the numbers, and makes all due allowances. He is 
also very choice about securing the most competent 
drawing frame hands, and makes it an object to keep 
them. In many mills the picker room and drawing 
frames are used as a nursery, and are always open to re- 
ceive "jacks of all trades." The practical man is too 
sensible to injure the interests of his company by such 
needless operations. He gives the drawing frame hands 
time each Saturday to thoroughly scour their machines, 
sees that they are oiled every day and has the clearers 
picked as often as is necessary to prevent droppings 
from being drawn between the rolls, making lumps in 
the sliver, or plugging the trumpets. On slubbers, inter- 
mediates and speeders, he is particular to have piecing 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 15 

made so that subsequent processes are not injured and 
clearers are kept clean. He is very careful to have proper 
twist in the roving, the kind that the spinner can draw, 
and yet not break back in the creel. He is very thought- 
ful about the tensions on all these machines and regu- 
lates them so that there is no possibility of stretching the 
roving. When he changes the hank roving on a machine 
he does not allow one kind of roving to lapse into that 
of another number. He makes a clean change, dofiting 
his machines at a point that is just between the two 
kinds, so that there is no mixing of roving. This is sim- 
ple to learn, and yet the impractical man does not appre- 
ciate this lesson and the merits of this point go un- 
heeded. For example, we will suppose that the carder 
has an order to change some speeders from 4 hank mak- 
ing 32s yarn, to 3 hank to spin 24s 3^arn. If he doffs the 
speeder before the draught gears are changed there will 
be about a yard of the 4 hank roving left from the bite 
of rolls to the bobbins. When the new roving reaches 
the spinner, he changes his frames, and when this roving 
is being run off, the last yard or so on each bobbin, which 
is 4 hank instead of 3 hank, makes 8 yards of 32s, which 
should be 24s, and worse than that, it is soft twisted 
yarn, is useless and makes a mess. A radical change is 
the only right change to make, and the practical man ap- 
preciates this requirement. 

IN THE SPINNING ROOM. 

Passing to the practical spinner, he is made of the 
same kind of cloth as the carder. He is fully interested 
in his business and well adapted to manage rapidly mov- 
ing forces. Time and space forbid taking up the vast 
details of this department as a whole. It will suffice to 
generalize. "A word to the wise is sufficient." 

The practical spinner knows how to adjust all the 
parts of a spinning frame so as to adapt it to stock used 



16 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

and make it do its best work. A spinning frame appears 
very simple, but it is quite a complicated machine to 
operate, and unless a spinner is expert he cannot obtain 
best results. The experienced man is tactful, resource- 
ful and never complains of being overburdened with 
multifarious duties. He has a wealth of patience, is a 
born trainer of the young, indefatigable worker and has 
tireless energy to keep his help interested and up to high- 
est standard of efficiency. He can spin, doff, spool and 
give the lead to the best hands he has whenever his ire is 
stirred. He is business-like, fair and square. He is the 
whole court, jury and judge whose cases are never ap- 
pealed and his greatest admirers are his help. In re- 
gard to the work itself, after his machines are properly 
hung and adjusted, he insists that his spinners make 
smooth piecings, and that the spoolers make small but 
firm knots. He has a place for everything, keeps his 
machines well oiled and clean, and, best of all, he keeps 
every spindle running and the belts on the tight pulley. 
His production is all right. He settles his own troubles, 
and the superintendent never has occasion to Avorry 
about his spinning department and ^^call him down." He 
knows this man is working for the best interests of the 
company and he helps him up, mentally, monetarily and 
to a better position whenever he can, same as he would 
anyone who merits advancement. The practical spin- 
ner sizes a great deal more yarn than the uninitiated 
cares to. Instead of taking 2, 3 and 4 bobbins as a basis 
for making up his size record and reports, he weighs at 
least 8 bobbins from as many bobbins of roving which 
have been previously weighed by the carder. This is 
called the regular size. Then to avoid further doubts, 
he also takes a random size to prove the general trend of 
the work. He keeps a careful record of these sizings 
and sends a duplicate report to the carder, and a third to 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 17 

the superintendent's office. As the spinner has to deal 
most altogether with very young help he can, by his pru- 
dent management, shape and mould their future useful- 
ness to a considerable extent. The young men especially 
will pride themselves upon imitating the traits of an 
overseer whether he is good or bad. The spinner who 
deserves the name of being a good, practical man, will 
not use profane language ; he will be clean in his habits, 
appearance, and endeavor to uplift the young people 
under his charge in every way that he can by his own 
high grade character. 

IN THE WEAVING ROOM. 

In an article of this space it is impossible to give the 
reader and the art so much scope as is necessary to cover 
the ground well. So far as the practical man himself 
is concerned, he will have all of the high grade qualities 
and sterling character that is claimed for our yarn 
makers, and will have so mastered the art of weaving 
that he will be equal to his business requirements. In 
other words, he will have served time as a common 
weaver, fixer and second-hand before he can fully under- 
stand the trade as it is practiced. The man of his trade 
can step up to a loom and give points to a troubled 
weaver or fixer that give evidence of his having superior 
knowledge of the art. His words and manipulation of 
the threads and machine carry weight and influence that 
draw weavers to their looms with increasing confidence 
that more and better work can be done by themselves. 
He is not timid, and the tongue of an unruly weaver or 
the bang of a loom gives him no fears, for he can hush 
both with honor to himself and injure neither man nor 
machine. He is not quick tempered. His acumen car- 
ries him through the thick of the battle from morning 
till eve without murmuring. A loom can be compared 



18 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

to a block of marble. In the marble the sculptor sees a 
beautiful statue, but with only his skill and hard labor 
can he chisel and draw out the image of his ideal. The 
loom is a very simple machine, but the skilled Aveaver 
sees its wonderful possibilities, and by his applied ener- 
gies he can make it bear fruit that will tempt the marts 
of the world. The practical man accomplishes this by 
having the right kind of help. By this is meant that he 
not only finds and draws good help, but he makes good 
lielp from the material that he finds on the spot. He 
Ivuows that by continued changing of hands he demoral- 
izes his department. He makes good hands of poor help 
by teaching them and bringing out the good that is in 
them. He not only adjusts his looms properly, but looks 
out for proper moistening, temperatures and ventilating. 
Many weavers become run down, care worn and careless 
because the weave room has not been ventilated since 
the double windows were put on last fall. Without a 
circulation of fresh air, proper warmth and humidity a 
weave room cannot secure its full and best grade of pro- 
duction. Weavers work hard. They must be fed witli 
something else besides gloom. Give them plenty of 
light, too, and keep the Vails and ceiling clean and well 
whitened. The practical man provides all these com- 
forts, gives them plenty of fresh water to drink and a 
clean place to put their clothes and plenty of time to go 
home and get a nice, square, warm meal at home. The 
dinner pail never can take the place of a warm dinner, 
and it does not turn off so much cloth. We must now 
leave the technical and designing part of the art for 
some future article in which some other writer can treat 
it to much better advantage by itself. The practical 
weaver gets off a very large production of cloth. This 
is of mutual advantage to the company and his help. 
His percentage of seconds runs very low, and this makes 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 19 

all sides the more prosperous. There is another great 
reason for good-running work that this well-managed 
weave room can rely upon. It is the proper preparation 
of the yarn which goes on in the carding and the spin- 
ning department by the practical men at their heads. 
And it is from such men as these that the superintendent 
is chosen. Thus it pays the young man to become a 
practical man. The superintendent, being a thoroughly 
practical man, can fully appreciate his position and 
courts the services of the trained men. He will not only 
have a trained carder, spinner and weaver, but will also 
have a practical finisher; one who can put up goods in 
attractive packages for the market and who can finish 
goods with a "feel" that is so irresistible to a woman's 
touch that she will repeatedly call for more of the same 
kind of goods. He will not part with his men at any 
cost, and the highest reasonable salaries cannot fully re- 
pay their services. He will also have one of the leading 
men of his trade as chief engineer and master mechanic, 
one who takes pride in keeping up repairs in such a 
manner as to keep the mills running with the smallest 
per cent of shutdowns on account of breaks and careless 
attention to steam plant, water power, etc. He co- 
operates w^ith the heads of all other departments in lend- 
ing every assistance that comes under his domain to keep 
the belts on the tight pulleys. He shares in the credits 
given to each department for increase in production. 
His chance of rising still higher by virtue of his profes- 
sion or trade it as great as those of the manufacturing 
heads. Two of the largest positions in New England 
to-day are held by men who were once engineers or mas- 
ter mechanics of the cloth, and are now general superin- 
tendents or managers of over a dozen large mills apiece. 
The same chances can be bespoken for the finishers. 
Some of leading managers' positions held at present are 



20 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

by those who are expert or practical finishers. Be prac- 
tical, young men, and 3'our chances are legion I 

THE MANAGEMENT OF HELP. 

To be a successful manager of skilled and unskilled 
help, depends largely upon a good knowledge of human 
nature, and to possess that knowledge requires close and 
constant stud}-, because it is so seldom that we come 
across two persons who can be approached alike. 

A knowledge of human nature with a thorough expe- 
rience of what their work is, and how it should be done, 
are the three great principles vmderlying the advantages 
of successful management. And yet a man may possess 
all the above virtues, and if he is lacking in the gift of 
speech and courtesy to adapt his instructions to the 
understanding of his help, he cannot be successful. 

Is this all? No! There is another prime requisite 
which is the crowning virtue of all, and that is a big 
heart of symj^athy; a heart which is impartial to any 
one, and advocates honest}^ between help and employer. 

The man containing breadth and depth in this line is 
the man who inspires his help with energ}^, and they will 
attain the best results possible. 

It is impossible for a man to enjoy peace of mind who 
manages his help with the "under the hammer" princi- 
ple, be he ever so commanding, firm and strict, if he has 
a heart no larger than a plum with a stone in the middle 
of it, he and his help are in hot water a good share of 
the time. 

But let us get outside of the man. How sliall he exer- 
cise and practice his wisdom in managing help? 

Here are the help, some good, some bad, some indif- 
ferent, occuping positions of trust and responsibility all 
the way up and down the scale. How did they get 
there? Ninety-nine per cent asked for work and were 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 21 

hired and placed. Now there is no better time to con- 
quer help than at the very moment of engagement to 
work. It is then that they should be questioned and 
given to understand what shall be required of them ( not 
to condemn them for their past failures, if any, for they 
may be better hands than ever, after a vacation or 
change of place). 

The practical man, as has already been said, is choice 
about his help. Be he ever so practical or a hard worker 
himself, he cannot do all the work. He must have help 
intelligent enough to take his place in performing the 
vast duties of the work itself as a whole, and his success 
as well as the profits of the company depend entirely 
upon the help being adapted and willing to do their part 
as directed by him. Therefore, when he needs help he is 
cautious and business-like in engaging them, and he is 
quick in '^sizing up" applicants for positions. He never 
appoints people to work in a haphazard manner and 
without a perfect understanding. He realizes, as a wise 
man should, that there is no time so opportune to have 
an understanding as at the time that a person seeks em- 
ployment. When a person approaches him for employ- 
ment he is conservative but always courteous even to the 
youngest and the humblest. The first thing he does is 
to ascertain from whence his client comes. In fact, he 
has a list or set of pertinent questions that he puts to the 
general applicant, as follows : What other mills have 
you worked in? How long at each place? What is the 
cause of seeking employment at this time, or why is the 
previous job given up? What do you want to do? How 
long do you intend to stay here if you obtain work? Do 
you work steadily? If a person cannot answer these 
questions satisfactorily, he does not waste further time 
with the applicant. If the seeker has good, honest 
reasons, and can get good recommendations, he will say : 



22 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

"I have a position for you here. It is all work and no 
play, and the pay is so much for this work and no more. 
If you want this work and undertake it, I will expect 
you to be punctual, steady, courteous to all, neat about 
your work and make good work. If you are willing to 
work and comply with the rules, etc., you can have the 
job." Of course these questions and requirements can 
be varied to the understanding of the humblest subjects 
and to suit as occasion requires. There are many ex- 
ceptions. The trained man knows that some people who 
have been discharged in other places may, in subsequent 
instances, make excellent hands. But if he learns that 
a person has very bad habits and has been habitually dis- 
charged, his chances of reforming are scarce. 

If a hand comes in late in the morning or is discovered 
to stop work ten or fifteen minutes, at night, before the 
wheel stops, the best thing to say to that person is that 
the first and last ten minutes of the day are worth just 
as much as any other ten minutes of the day. We pay 
the same price for them. 

Other hands are found roaming away from their work 
to other parts of the manufactory. A good thing to say 
to theifi is, "We want you to stay at your work all the 
while, for we pay for all the while.'' 

Unskilled help should be taught in particular the 
value of little things and property, never to let a bobbin 
or good piece of clean waste remain on the floor for a 
moment. 

To convince and inspire economy, the writer has some- 
times seen a boy drop a ring traveller on the floor, and 
requested him to find it, and if he happened not to find 
it, he (the writer) would say, "Never mind, you will find 
it when you sweep by and by." The innocence with 
w^hich a hint of this kind is taken is laughable. Still it 
works well. It pays, too, in the aggregate, to throw out 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 23 

as much as possible, suggestions of how they should keep 
well. 

It is appalling how poorly some of our cheap laborers 
take care of themselves. Some of them go several weeks 
without taking a bath. 

Tale-bearing and back-biting should never be toler- 
ated. Friendliness and good feeling should be culti- 
vated by them toward each other as far as possible. 

A "bobbin boy" is very much surprised if told that the 
other boy he complains of is his friend. Help in general 
love to be respected. They appreciate a courteously 
given order. There are many sides to a person. It is 
always best to approach a person on the right side. 

The correct placing of help is something of great 
value, not only to the employer but to the hand himself, 
and to the manager in charge. A poor hand in one place 
may make an excellent one in another place. A hand 
must fit the place. Another cannot keep up her work in 
a certain part of the room, but will more than keep up 
elsewhere. Putting a poor hand with a good one to 
learn how to be quick is not always the best thing. 

If a poor hand is put along with another poor hand, 
both will profit by seeing each other's faults and errors 
sometimes. 

Very much more could be written on this important 
and broad subject. Being a cotton mill superintendent 
or overseer is an avocation which calls forth many dif- 
ferent kinds of talent. He must be somewhat of a bot- 
anist, doctor, detective, school master, lawyer, judge, 
minister, etc. His work is at par, and as honorable as 
any other profession. And if he realizes his position he 
will make a good manager of skilled and unskilled help. 
If he fits his place his help will soon fit their places. 



24 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

TAKING AND GIVING ORDERS. 

The taking and giving of orders is an art well worth 
cultivating. The practical man is keen of perception, 
quick and comprehensive in taking and giving orders. 
He is a good listener Avhen taking orders, Unds out ex- 
actly w^hat is wanted, does not attempt to dictate, and if 
instructions are numerous, or much is at stake, or several 
orders are to be taken at one time, he has his pencil and 
block of paper ready to jot down all particulars. He 
makes sure to remove all elements of possible misunder- 
standing between himself and his superior, so that the 
execution of the order shall be consummate, /. e.^ per- 
fect. On the other hand, when the practical man gives 
orders he commands attention, is brief as possible, but 
drives his order home so that it is understood. If much 
depends upon his words, he will give some in writing, 
at the same time explain further the points at large. 
In giving orders off-hand (by Avord of mouth) to the 
ordinary help, he will make sure that he is understood. 
He will often punctuate his order Avith the Avords: ^^Do 
you understand Avhat I mean?" And often go further 
and say: ^^Noav, Avhat did you understand that I AAish 
you to do?'' In this Avay he reduces misunderstandings 
to a minimum. Much more can be Avritten on this 
A^aluable subject. HoAvever, lest the reader should de- 
spair of CA^er becoming practical, Ave Avill dismiss our 
lessons by adding that if the many readers of this article 
discover that many practical men, so-called, come short 
of the above mentioned virtues, then they may comfort 
themselves with the thought that they liave all the better 
chance to rise and take their places; for there is a great 
demand for the fully dcAdoped practical man, and large 
salaries are open to him. We need not mention that the 
practical man keeps Avell posted on his business outside; 
he reads the textile papers and keeps his mind fresh and 
active. 



THE PRACTICAL MAN. 25 

THE PRACTICAL MAN HAS A SYSTEM. 

The work of a textile man is made up of a multitude 
of small tilings and intricacies. He is on the rapid 
firing line from morning until evening, and unless he 
has good marching qualities, a splendid bump of order, 
keen perception, and not afraid of hard work and is 
systematic, he may be left in the rear, never to rise above 
the most commonplace affairs, and finally be buried with- 
out having achieved success in its simplest degree. 

The would-be progressive textile man, as in other lines 
of work, must be quick to grasp methods, adajDt himself 
to varying conditions, and be thoroughly systematic to 
make headway in the rush for supremacy against all 
ordinary barriers to success. The man with a system 
and containing the inherent qualities mentioned will out- 
strip and override the non-methodical son of the cloth. 
The facts are legion where men have fallen before the 
bar of success because they were wanting in a systematic 
way of performing their Avork. 

In following up the application of the man with a sys- 
tem we find that he excels and is a much sought for man 
in all responsible positions from the simplest to the 
highest. He is wanted because he does not bcome en- 
tangled in the meshes of his work and lose his head. He 
has a place for everything, and has a prompt, comprehen- 
sive method of execution. If he is making several grades 
of 3^arn or goods of any kind, he has a special place for 
each stock, placards the spot, marks the goods and pre- 
cludes all possibility of getting sizes and qualities mixed. 
The seriousness of getting goods mixed cannot be over 
estimated. It has cost many a responsible man a raise 
of salary, or a good position, and the management hard 
work to disentangle the mess, besides entailing large 
sums to be placed on the loss side of the company's led- 
ger. Therefore, the object of this article is to bring be- 
fore the mill men in general the importance of the sys- 



26 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

tematic style of marking. This applies to every phase 
of a man's work. 

The matter of taking orders is a serious matter, and 
yet how often it occurs that a man forgets details of an 
order and even forgets the entire order. Always make 
it a point to take the full weight of an order. Don't get 
the brain fag. Pencil your orders and their details on 
paper and keep them before you until the order is exe- 
cuted. The failure to do this has cost many a man a 
bright, prosperous future. 

The system also applies to having a proper place for 
tools, having proper tools, and taking proper care of 
them. The man who uses his jack-knife for a screw- 
driver is not a man of the fibre. A fixer to be a good 
running mate with system and progress should have 
good, appropriate tools. The man who has the right 
tools and knows just where he can lay hands on them 
when required is keeping pace with the big guns. 

Another application of the system is in regard to the 
correct filing away of papers, letters, etc. It does not 
require a college education nor elaborate file cabinets to 
accomplish this end. Envelopes are cheap. Every pro- 
gressive mill man from head doffer up, who cannot af- 
ford costly cabinets, should have a pack of large envel- 
opes and mark one for each department thus: carding, 
spinning, weaving, dye house, power department, general 
management, and so on. Whenever special bits of infor- 
mation on the above subjects present themselves to the 
eager student, let him cut them out of textile papers and 
file them under their proper heads. This system will 
prove of invaluable future service, as the writer can 
truly attest. 

The man with a system, like the man with the hoe, is 
bound to dig up something and have a full dinner pail. 

Have a good system, for the textile plants have no use 
for the haphazard man. 



VALUE OF READING TEXTILE PAPERS. 27 
II. 

THE VALUE OF READING THE TEXTILE PAPERS. 

That the value of reading trade papers cannot be over- 
estimated is attested by the leading men in general who 
take one or more trade papers. This is especially true 
of the textile trades. Every progressive textile man 
who makes any pretentions of being up-to-date reads 
one or more of the textile papers. The value of this 
is obvious. It is highly important for a man to keep in 
touch with his fellow tradesmen through a first-class 
textile paper. To him it is not an expense account, but 
an investment which is a standing asset that returns 
good dividends. A good textile paper is not merely a 
news dispenser. It has a higher mission. It is a mirror 
of the trade in its truest phases. In it, a person sees 
reflected the latest improvements, the progress of other 
plants; the progress of men who are doing their work 
well here and there. And the study of the technical 
articles therein returns valuable information to the in- 
telligent student of his business. The textile paper is a 
valuable instructor, and a person cannot thoughtfully 
read and follow it up from week to week without finding 
it a great educator. It is an education in itself. It 
broadens the mind, widens one's scope, and braces a 
good workman to render more valuable service to his 
employer. This special training holds out many ave- 
nues for his advancement, upon which he can rely as 
surely as the sun rises. For the man who aims to do 
extra well with his work and is not afraid of over- work- 
ing may, in time, be offered more salary, or he may be 
given more work, enabling him to earn more; or he may 
be promoted to some other mill where larger responsibili- 



28 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

ties await his hustling capabilities, carrying with him 
the kindest wishes of his former employer and asso- 
ciates. 

The object of this article, however, will be entirely de- 
feated if it does not carry weight in one particular direc- 
tion. The great plea of the writer is that the textile 
paper may reach more of such as should read and be 
wise. It is as vain to expect that a man can keep in 
touch with the current news of the day without ever see- 
ing a newspaper, as to expect to be up-to-date in the tex- 
tile line and never read a textile paper. Skilled men 
can confer no greater favor upon the young men in 
whom they are interested than to advise them to take 
and read a textile paper. Every section man, loom-fixer, 
second-hand, and all textile students of whatever degree, 
who have hopes before them, and a desire to excel, should 
fall into line and take a textile paper, and they will not 
fail to find from the start, that, instead of an expense 
account, it will prove a good investment — a valuable 
as>set for their intellect, and their purse. 

THE WORTH OF A TRADE PAPER/ 

That a trade paper can be of great worth to the line 
of business it represents goes without comment and its 
worth can be measured in proportion to its use. 

By this is not meant the total issue printed and circu- 
lated altogether, but the total number of its interested 
readers. This information cannot be easily obtained, 
but it is a well known fact that a trade paper has 
vastly more readers than subscribers. There are several 
reasons for this. One reason is that a tradesman who 
thinks he cannot afford to subscribe for one of his trade 
papers will borrow his neighbor's. He is like the man 
without a Avatch. He wants to know the time, and to 

♦Published In the " Trade Press List," November, 1904. 



VALUE OF READING TEXTILE PAPERS. 29 

learn it he must consult the watch of another man. 
Another method by which extra readers are gained is 
through the proprietors or managers of establishments. 
They realize the worth of a paper akin to their business, 
and will often pass their trade papers around among 
their employees. Some firms go further and will sub- 
scribe for a dozen or more of these papers and distribute 
them among their emplo^'ees. The}^ do this because they 
want keen, bright, well read men behind their line of 
business, and the trade reviews sharpen these virtues. 

The public libraries also realize their value and are 
among the great patronizers of the trade press issues, 
and supply their shelves liberally with them. There 
they are read and re-read by a large number of trade 
people. 

Many expert tradesmen who have risen from the ranks 
Avill admit that they owe their success, in a large meas- 
ure, to the keen interest with which for years they have 
followed the progress and policy outlined by the leading 
papers of the trade of which they were a part. 

Of course the use of a trade paper is in proportion to 
its Avorth. It cannot be worth more than what is put 
into it, and the demand for it will be in that proportion. 
It should lead the trade and not be led by the trade. 
To lead it must portray all that is best, truest, and thor- 
oughly practical. To accomplish this it must jiay liber- 
ally for the use of the leading men's brains. Its pages 
are its capital, and unless these pr.ges are covered with 
practical articles that teach how to manage business and 
improve the processes, and have some inspiring material 
interspersed, the returns will be meagre. A paper that 
is choice in selecting its writers, pays them liberally for 
special articles that are worth reprinting, will receive 
and publish material that will put life into the trade. 

A paper that uses a groat deal of reprinted matter or 



30 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

depends upon free contributions to a large extent, lacks 
life and does itself and its readers little good. It does 
not pay either party and is mistaken economy. On the 
other hand, the best paid articles are the trade paper's 
most profitable investment. It brings more readers, 
makes business better, and adds worth to itself. It can- 
not enrich the readers without enriching itself. That is 
what the business mad, and the tradesmen at the bench, 
demand of their trade paper — something that teaches 
them how to be more useful and self-sustaining — some- 
thing which makes them feel that their paper is an in- 
vestment instead of an expense account. To supply and 
gratify this demand, the trade paper must invest very 
largely in the leading business men's interpretation of 
their own trade methods. 

This is the true worth of the trade paper. 



HOW TO GET THE JOB. 31 

III. 

HOW TO GET THE JOB.* 

Every ambitious and intelligent mill man outgrows 
the past and has an innate longing to do better work in 
his present position by securing such results as will 
bring him a larger salary and advancement to a higher 
station. If, perchance, he has reached the highest posi- 
tion in the gift of his present employer, and has out- 
grown the present capacity of his plant and perceives no 
signs of enlargement, he has a right to look for a new 
field of labor suited to his ambition. There are a large 
number of men who are amply capable of filling larger 
and more responsible positions with great credit to them- 
selves and increased profit to the companies who would 
be fortunate in securing their services. But, alas ! there 
is another class that is equally anxious for advancement 
and seeking the same opportunity with as much force as 
the former class, and when given a chance prove to be 
failures. This is what makes it so hard for the worthy 
man to prove his claims. To get the job is a serious 
task. When a position is thrown open the rush of appli- 
cants is so great, and the pressing of their suits so earn- 
est, that it is often with great difficulty that the most 
competent men secure an audience or even get a hearing 
or a reply. It often happens that an incompetent man 
may have had more schooling, and by his polished appli- 
cation may use more convincing terms and secure more 
favorable attention. Often a thoroughly practical man 
is so busy at his present task that he hastily sends a mes- 
sage on a scrap of paper saying he is the right man. Tlie 
receiver throws this message into the waste basket be- 
fore it is half read through, not realizing that this man 

* Published in " Textile World Record," December, 1904. 



32 THE MANAGEMEJST OF COTTON MILLS. 

may prove greatly superior to the more diplomatic job- 
seeker. 

One of these expert job-seekers once called to see a 
prosperous friend who was superintendent of a large 
mill, and as the superintendent escorted his visitor leis- 
urely through his great plant, the visitor thought to him- 
self: This superintendent has a snap; and he finally 
ventured to ask the question, ''What is the hardest thing 
you have ever had to do in connection with this plant?'' 
To which the genial superintendent replied : ''Well, I'll 
tell you, the hardest thing I ever had to do in connection 
with this plant was to get the job." 

There is more truth than fiction about this answer. 
To many practical men the work of straightening out 
the mill is very easy, compared to the severe strain of 
trying to get the job they are well fitted to fill. 

The reader will despair if the writer closes this article 
Avithout some practical suggestions that will aid the hon- 
est seeker of a larger job. In the first place, to avoid 
disappointment, do not look for nor expect advancement 
at home or elsewhere until you feel entirely worthy and 
fully competent to fill the higher position. No matter 
how well a man has done, more and better work will be 
expected of him in the higher sphere. The next thing 
for a man to do when his ambition is worked up to that 
pitch that he wants to rise is to make the job that he now 
has do a good deal of talking. Don't talk too much your- 
self, but make your results talk. It stands to reason 
that if a man is capable of filling a better position he 
should be able to fill the one job he has next to perfec- 
tion. Therefore, take a deep interest in your present 
charge. Redouble your efforts to increase production 
and quality and to reduce cost. Get your name up by 
piling up production, by your excellent management of 
details, and keep up this steady gait without Avavering. 



HOW TO GET THE JOB. 33 

Let 3'Our wishes be known in a moderate way. Disclose 
your object to a few friends here and there in a quier 
way. Tell them that you are not working like a Trojan 
for glory, but you are working for promotion. Kegister 
your name with some good bureau. That talk about 
having a pull with the directors, or of having financial 
influence does not cut ice. Men are what corporations 
are looking for, and if you are the man they want, pull 
and money backing don't figure in the proposition at all. 
When you hear of an opening write and ask for it. 
Tell them you want the work and are capable of carrying 
out your contract. Don't tell them you know it all. Be 
honest in your statements and prove them. If you are 
out of a job try to meet them and have a plain interview, 
carefully giving honest particulars. To perjure one's self 
into a position will prove of no value in the end. If you 
hold a good position, say so, and that you are giving satis- 
faction, but want to rise. If possible, interview your 
present employer and elicit his assistance. He ought to 
be your best reference and recommend you most highly. 
Write a plain letter. State your experience fairly, be 
brief and to the point. Use good conventional business 
paper. This method goes further in getting the job than 
anything else. Try it for yourself and see the result. 



34 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

IV. 
HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL* 

This article is written for the benefit of many young 
men who would appreciate a few practical suggestions 
from an experienced man in regard to putting a mill on 
a proper running basis when it is found that the best 
results are not obtained. Many young men, and some 
older ones, too, start out to superintend a mill for the 
:first time with the idea that they will find a bed of roses 
■awaiting them, and that there will be nothing further for 
them to do than to walk through the mills three times a 
day, carrying a straight face, and sit in the office and 
smoke cigars the remainder of the time. There are 
others who have made the most of themselves, studied 
the different departments zealously, and having been 
meritoriously advanced step by step until taking charge 
of a mill is undertaken with a complete realization of the 
responsibilities resting upon them. However, to the ex- 
perienced as well as to the inexperienced men who are in 
charge of mills, there arise perplexing difficulties which 
require the closest study and application of duty to 
straighten out. There are weak points about every mill ; 
it matters not whether it is an old plant or a new one, 
whether the former superintendent has been a good 
manager or a poor executive, there are sure to be many 
weak points that will demand immediate and closest at- 
tention. The first thing for a man to do when taking 
charge of a mill is to learn from the management if they 
are experiencing difficulties which require his special at- 
tention ; also acquaint himself fully with the company's 
governing policy. As a rule, the manufacturers owning 



* Published in " Fibre and Fabric. 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 35 

the plant have outlined a routine of business peculiar to 
their methods, and it is well for a superintendent to keep 
in closest touch with the management, so as to avoid 
friction and clashing of interests. On the other hand, 
it is supposed that his employers, having intelligently 
secured the man they needed, will respect him and 
always be approachable whenever he suggests improve- 
ments even in the management, as their defective plans 
may bear against the success of the plant and injure his 
reputation. They should have such confidence in his 
integrity and capacity to give him a free hand and not 
oblige him to lose much valuable time by consulting 
them about many petty changes which he alone can 
understand better than any interpretation of them can 
possibly convey. Taking it for granted, therefore, that 
there is no hitch in the executive machinery, and that 
perfect relations exist between the superintendent or 
agent and his directors, he will proceed into the mill bear- 
ing in mind the matters which demand his immediate at- 
tention, and to discover for himself any other defects 
that may exist but yet undiscovered by anyone. In a 
cotton mill there are many defects liable to arise which 
require one fully skilled in the art from bale to case 
to properly locate their sources and promptly arrest the 
same. And it not only requires this knowledge, but also 
requires a man of strong determination, and of diplo- 
matic and magnanimous character to deal with such in- 
tricate problems as come up from time to time in a cot- 
ton manufacturing plant. As superintendent, he has 
now to deal with an executive force of intelligent men, 
embracing heads of carding, spinning, spooling, warping 
and slashing, weaving, finishing and packing and me- 
chanical departments. He also deals with their assist- 
ants and very largely comes into touch with the help in 
General, and brushes against some of the brightest of 



36 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

men on the road, as the drummers and the machinery 
^^setters up.'' The men on the road in turn come into 
touch with the scions of the art, and form the great 
spider web of the industry. They readily size up a new 
superintendent, and unless the man in charge of a mill 
has tact and diplomacy he may suffer considerable hu- 
mility. The same can be said of the overseers. The 
overseers are the great buds of promise. If they are well 
selected men they are the future superintendents or 
agents. Many of them are virtually ahead of their posi- 
tions, and are as capable, and frequently more capable, 
to manage a plant than their superintendent, being 
only less fortunate in securing such places, or, there be- 
ing an insufiflcient number of positions for superintend- 
ents, the^^ must await their turns. These men need a 
regular general to supervise, and happy is the man who 
has the golden mien to manage and control skilled help. 
Having these prime requisites the man of the future will 
have no difficulty in disentangling the most troublesome 
mistakes of the art, providing he has also learned his 
business. Of the many forms of bad work not all involve 
the mill from beginning to end. Some defects in the 
cloth can be traced back no further than the si)inning; 
some to the spoolers, others to the slashers ; and there are 
those which may be much more difficult to discover, aris- 
ing from the carding and the opening processes. 

We will suppose that the new superintendent is told 
upon taking charge that the production is not sufficient 
and that the work is not running as it should. The 
superintendent should see the cloth room at once, and 
carefully inspect a great deal of the cloth ; use his glass 
freely, and also test the strength of the different grades 
and see how it is for proper weight. In this way he 
ascertains whatever mischief must be rectified. If he 
finds the goods specky, with considerable uneven yarn, 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 37 

not uniform in weight and with many smashes, poor 
selvedges and nappy surface, he will arrive at these con- 
clusions, which are inevitable: The specks are caused 
by improper opening and carding; the uneven yarn is 
caused by carelessness in allowing single Avork to pass at 
the drawing frames and other places ; the uneven weight 
of goods, by careless keeping of numbers possibly all 
through the plant; the smashes are caused by poor 
piecing at spinning frames and poor knot tying at the 
spoolers; poor selvedges, by poor Avarping, slashing and 
improperly drawn-in warps, such as crossed ends in the 
looms; the nappy appearance of the cloth is caused by 
soft warps or improper slashing, and there may be in- 
sufficient twist for the stock used. In general terms he 
Avould consider that the tone of the plant was Avell run 
down all through and well-nigh ^^bunged up.'' The new 
superintendent has a task before him, and, if he is a de- 
termined man, will let nothing stand in his way to suc- 
ceed. He must begin at the opening department, and at 
the same time converse with and promptly advise his de- 
partmental heads of the defects and order them to rigidly 
examine their work and stop all defects for which each 
are responsible. The superintendent will post himself 
as to the quality of the stock on hand so as to properly 
grade each opening or mixing in the picker room. It is 
not advisable to open cotton in an ordinary mill more 
than twice per week, and where room and time permit it 
is a good plan to open enough for one week, but no more. 
Great care must be exercised in opening the different 
grades so as to jjroperly mix them. It is disastrous for 
the welfare of the plant to have the mixings uneven. 
The mixtures must be as perfect as i)ossible. If there 
are bales to be used up that are below the standard, too 
much stress cannot be put upon the command — by all 
means intersperse them well throughout the entire lot of 



38 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

bales opened. If there is not time or sufficient help to 
accomplish this there is not time or help enough to run 
the mill. Care must also be taken to reject bales of cot- 
ton that are way below what the company pays for. A 
violation of this consideration injures the company and 
reputation of the men in charge. It is astonishing how 
few men realize the importance of properly opening cot- 
ton. The failures are legion caused by improper hand- 
ling of cotton before it enters the machines. A superin- 
tendent, as well as the overseer of carding, should be a 
good judge of cotton. They should be educated in re- 
gard to the structure of the fibre, and know how to test, 
sample and "size up'' cotton and be able at all times to 
give, when required, an intelligent idea of their stock as 
it is being used from day to day. Those who do not un- 
derstand their business in this respect can never be so 
successful in superintending as those who are well 
trained in the art of properly opening cotton. The 
writer has known of mills opening only one bale at a 
time and using mixed grades of stock. He has also 
known of mills where the cotton was taken into the 
picker room and opened without regard to quality. It 
did not make any difference as to whether the cotton was 
strict good middling or so far below grades as to make 
it difficult to decide which to run through the pickers 
first, the bagging around the cotton or the cotton itself. 
There are some carders who become so puzzled about 
mixing their stock that they would as soon run the bag- 
ging through the machine along with the cotton. It is 
the rule, too, rather than the exception, that the buyer 
of the cotton rarely understands the working of same. 
The buyer of the cotton, even when experienced with its 
workings in the mill, should keep in closest touch with 
his superintendent, who should take the utmost care to 
inform him as to the workings of each lot. Even lots 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MH^L. 39 

of the same goods do not always work the same. There 
may be too much moisture in it. It may be too dry, too 
brittle, too rough or even unripe. The inexperienced 
buyer of cotton can do his company no greater favor 
than to keep in touch with his superintendent as regards 
the working of the cotton, and if the superintendent 
understands his business the buyer and the company can 
profit much from the results of careful purchases. Un- 
less this confidence exists between the superintendent and 
the management, the buyer or the superintendent should 
be changed, as the success of the plant will be impeded. 
No superintendent who values his reputation can afford 
to attempt to make a success of a plant where the man- 
agement insists upon having their own way at any cost. 
In this event it is better for him to resign. Keturning 
to the pile of well-mixed cotton, the lumps having been 
well broken by hand, the stock is ready for the opener or 
picker. This machine should be looked over to see that 
all parts are well adjusted. The amount of feed should 
be determined upon and kept the same at all times, i. e,, 
not change same daily, as done in some mills. This has 
been known to be left to picker tenders, who, when they 
desired to get ahead, would feed heavy and work like 
Trojans to get off from the mill on Friday nights. Then 
again, when they wished to take it easy, they would feed 
lighter. 

Examinations should be made of all pickers, interme- 
diates and finishers, to see that parts work in unison and 
that each perform their proper ofiflces. The screens 
should be kept clean, the cages not allowed to become 
clogged ; the beaters should be kept well sharpened ; the 
eveners should work freely. It is also important that 
the speeds be taken of the fans and beaters. A close ex- 
amination of all these things is most sure to reveal some- 
thing wrong. In one mill it was found that the beaters 



40 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

were turning too fast. They should not run over 1,500 
revolutions to avoid injuring the stock. Some mills will 
not run beaters over 1,400 revolutions, and some run 
them as low as 1,200 the year round. In one instance a 
most laughable discovery was made. The fans of the 
several finishers were found to run at an enormous speed. 
The speeds of four were 1,800, 2,000, 2,200 and 2,500 
revolutions per minute. It was also discovered that the 
fans were running backwards instead of the way they 
should. Some farmer had wisely ( ? ) reversed their ro- 
tary motion, and in the course of events, it being found 
that there was insufficient draft, they Avere speeded up 
beyond the light of reason. Serious as the situation 
seemed to a competent man, it was amusing to enter the 
picker room and hear the fans rotate as they rattled in 
their bearings. By some force of back pressure and cir- 
cumvolutions of the air there was enough draft to some- 
what drag the stock through, but the specky stock that 
was thrown into the processes of this mill should have 
been seen to be appreciated. It was staggering. It is 
needless to state that the engine was not reversed, it was 
turning the right way; but the rotation of the fans was 
reversed and slowed down to normal speed. It is also a 
good plan to relevel each machine, also inspect the beat- 
ers and pulleys to see if same are properly balanced. If 
these are well balanced, it will remove all unnecessary 
jarring and shaking. In passing the stock through do 
not feed too heavily. Over-crowding opening machinery 
is as bad for the proper working of the stock as eating 
too much is for the body. All laps taken off of finishers 
should be Aveighed. Platform scales are cheap, and have 
enough of them in front of the finishers to avoid as much 
walking back and forth as possible. Where there are no 
more than six finishers, two scales will answer the pur- 
pose. No laps should be sent to card room where revolv- 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 41 

ing flat cards are used that a ary more than a pound from 
the standard. A careful record of lap weighing should 
be kept on file in the room and sent to the office at the 
close of each week. This list need not require much 
labor. Three columns on a sheet of paper with the 
standard weight plainly marked at the top of each col- 
umn and the variation weights marked on each side, and 
when a lap is weighed the most illiterate can simply 
make a mark in the column where it belongs, thus: 
|Y|¥|V|- At the close of the day it can readily be seen 
whether the work has been generall}^ light, heavy, nor- 
mal or a fair average. If same tends to be light, the 
evener can be touched to favor the heavy side, or vice 
versa. It pays to have good help in the opening dei)art- 
ment. It is surprising what incompetent help it is cus- 
tomary to find in the picker room. As this department 
is just as important as smj other, there is no reason why 
its work should be intrusted to wood choppers and the 
like. Wood choppers are faithful and good men in their 
place, but there should be no use for them in the picker 
room. The best of men and good pay for picker room 
men will more than repay a well managed mill. When 
this policy is pursued there is less changing of hands, a 
splendid system of opening and operations can be main- 
tained and will run smoothly as clock work. Another 
point to consider is the supervision of this room. The 
overseer of carding does not frequent the picker room 
often enough. He should be as careful and observing 
of this department as of his carding engines. Where he 
has a large picker room he is entitled to have a section 
man or second hand man who can give his entire time and 
attention to this department, and he must be a man well 
trained and able to locate trouble instantly and keep his 
machines in best of running order. 

What has been said about system, good help, good 



42 THE MANAGEMENT OP COTTON MILLS. 

order and careful supervision in the picker room must 
apply in the carding department. The overseer of card- 
ing, like all other overseers, should be first-class in every 
respect. The superintendent should keep in closest 
touch with his carder. See that he is ever on the alert 
to keep pace with the requirements that will insure good 
carding, keep up production and arrest unnecessary 
costs. See that his cards do not card too heavy. It is 
better to card light and not run doffers too fast. The 
cylinders should not be loose on their shafts, as has been 
discovered in many mills during recent years. Cards 
like other machines should be perfectly level and be freed 
from vibrations that may be caused by not being set 
upon a well-supported floor. It is in the extremely fine 
and accurate setting of a card that excellent carding is 
obtained. If a card is not perfectly level, the journals 
and bearings will bind and cause undue wear and loss of 
power. If the cards shake on account of insecure foun- 
dation, the fine setting of a card is defeated. As cards 
have surfaces that are set in relationship to each other of 
from T(jW to Twto of an inch, a cylinder and doffer 
that is allowed to be tossed to and fro by undue jarring 
or shaking in their bearings very soon wear out this 
difference of setting, and the well-set and well-ground 
clothing goes plunging and plowing into its neighbor's 
surface with a vengeance, and points become so faced 
and irregular that good carding is impossible. Then be 
sure that your cards are secured to a solid foundation 
so that they will not shake like a hay cock in the wind. 
Have them well set, well ground, fed lightly and prop- 
erly oiled, and your carding will be all that could be de- 
sired. When best of carding is secured, it is unneces- 
sary to have railway heads. Three processes of draw- 
ing, each having six doublings into one, will give even 
results. The drawing frames should have coilers and 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 43 

full-can stop-motions. Here is another place where 
cheap help often plays an important part. It is most 
sure to be a hot bed where green hands commence work, 
and owing to the neglect of putting as good help on 
drawing frames as elsewhere, much bad work is made 
that does irreparable injury to the future processes. 
The management should insist upon having the ends 
kept straight from the cans to bite of rolls at the back 
of the drawing frames. Clearers must be well picked 
every two hours and the drafts evenly distributed. Slub- 
bers, intermediates and speeders, being similar processes, 
require the same governing policy. Clearers should 
be kept perfectly clean. Tensions on ends should be 
gentle enough to avoid stretching or straining roving. 
Creel steps should be put in where the glass steps are 
missing. No old roving should be allowed to accumu- 
late. Piecing of broken ends should always be done 
from the flyer up; much breakage of ends and spoiling 
of leather covered rolls is caused in all subsequent pro- 
cesses where the roving is given an extra hard twist be- 
tween the hands so as to thread the flyer and then piece 
or splice broken ends at the bobbin. This practice 
should be prohibited. Smooth splices should also be 
made. As much roving should be wound on bobbins as 
possible to avoid needless trafficking of bobbins and re- 
duce creelings. Cone belts should be closely observed 
and not permitted to collapse unawares. Failure to do 
this retards production as well as creates an undue 
amount of roving splicing. The overseer of carding 
should weigh his finished roving and finished drawing 
sliver at least twice per day, and keep a careful record 
of same ; also send copy of weighings at once to superin- 
tendent's office; also to the overseer of spinning; 12 
yards from 4 bobbins of roving to weigh is insufficient. 
It is better to take 24 yards from 8 bobbins to get a 



44 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

good idea of how the work is running. All roving ma- 
chinery should be levelled, properly oiled, and the leather 
covered rolls kept in highest order. No questionable 
roll should remain in place. The pruning process should 
take place frequently and if a roll becomes damaged it 
should be immediately replaced. ^The matter of drafts 
should be studied as also twists to see that these are cor- 
rectly arranged. Of the spinning department the same 
must be said as already illustrated in connection with 
other rooms, viz., that ^^Eternal vigilance is the price of 
success." Alertness of the faculties has no more chance 
to lie dormant here than elsewhere. If anything, facul- 
ties must be sharpened a good deal to keep pace with 
the swiftness with which things must move in spinning. 
The overseer of spinning should be swift, keen-e^^ed, pos- 
sess great aptitude for leading the young and pushing 
them along without losing control of his help, and, to 
sum up, he should be master of his business. 

That system must prevail in the spinning department 
goes without saying. To obtain good yarn that is 
strong, even and clean in the quickest possible way and 
keep cost within range of closest competition is w^hat is 
puzzling the brains of many men whose means and repu- 
tation are at stake. To secure the largest measure of 
success all working parts must be properly adjusted. 
Guide arms, spindles, rings, rolls, ring rails, builder mo- 
tions, twist, draft, travelers, speed, roll traverse mo- 
tion, leather top rolls, distance of rolls set apart, — all 
these and countless details must be right, or the golden 
mien of results cannot be else than remote. Frames 
must be levelled if necessary, clearers kept clean, all 
parts kept lubricated without waste of oil, and the belts 
kept on the tight pulley. If builder motions are work- 
ing right, and all other details are in accord, the bob- 
bins can be filled. Here is where much production is 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 45 

lost. The great tiling to do, then, is to keep the work 
running well, fill the bobbins full and keep every spindle 
running, and, lastly, keep the frames doffed and pro- 
duction will be inevitable. Having good yarn and a 
full production means the battle won. The yarn will 
spool well and warp well. Caution should be the rule 
against poor knot tjdng. A competent slasher tender 
will not rob this good work of its elasticity, and give it 
proper sizing and keeping a careful record of all weights 
as to yard and size materials consumed. The overseer 
of spinning will weigh his work, keeping a record of 
same and sending copies to superintendent's office, also 
notifying overseer of carding twice each day. Having a 
mill straightened out so as to obtain the results men- 
tioned in previous chapters, there should be no handicap 
with the weaving process, providing looms are properly 
adjusted and that speed is not too high. Looms, like 
other machines, will do their best work when not over- 
worked. They should be level and securely fastened to 
a well supported floor. The best grade of supplies, such 
as picker sticks, lug straps, harness, reeds, strapping, is 
the cheapest. Looms having a cheap grade of supplies 
cannot be kept running so well, and a large percentage 
of stoppage and seconds result. Loom fixers should be 
well trained men and hustlers to keep their sections 
ahead in production. Have as much family help in the 
weave room as possible, and all through the mill. Tramp 
help ncA^er do a mill any good, even if to bridge over. 
Their fault-finding will discontent the fixed employees. 
A mill straightened out and managed as outlined will 
very likely need to enlarge its cloth room to take care 
of the production, for the weaving will run up to a high 
percentage of possible production. The machine shop 
should be in charge of a thorough master mechanic, and 
fully conversant with cotton mill repairs and good 



4:6 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

manager of help. Not all master mechanics understand 
managing help and systematizing the work of a large 
repair shop. He should have system, order, a place for 
every tool, and so hustle repairs that the least time be 
lost on account of break-downs. Interchangeable parts 
of machines requiring constant renewing should be kept 
on hand in large quantities to avoid idle machinery. He 
should keep a vigilant watch of the main drives and 
shafting, and ever be on the alert to discover any weak- 
ening parts, and, in anticipation of possible collapsing 
of such weakened places, duplicates should be provided 
and installed at the earliest opportunity. The waste 
house should receive a daily visit from the superin- 
tendent, and the same should be kept in good order and 
a careful record kept of each grade of Avaste entered. The 
oil repository should also be under critical surveillance. 
The mill yard ought to be in keeping with the excellent 
order that is formulated for other departments. Debris 
should not be left to pile up here and there to remain 
as eye-sores to the help and fostering shiftlessness. The 
superintendent who places his mill on this basis and 
maintains this high order, will be an inspiration to his 
help and so valuable to his company that his path will 
be strewn with roses by both employers and employees. 
He sould take a deep interest in the welfare of the com- 
munity and surround its atmosphere with strongest 
Christian qualities that is possible, that in the end it 
may be said: "Well done, thou good and faithful ser- 
vant." 

PROPER WAY OF CHANGING NUMBERS. 

"Changing Stock and Numbers" — this affects the 
whole mill from opener to finisher, and too much stress 
or force of expression cannot be used in speaking of the 
importance of making a good fit in changing stock or 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 47 

altering numbers. The habit among too many over- 
seers and some superintendents, even in spite of special 
commands to be careful, is to lapse one kind of goods 
into another. ^^Oh, it will pass !'' "It is near enough !'' 
"It will never be noticed, because there is so little of it," 
etc., are some of their expressions. 

On the strength of such arguments as the above, a 
little Sea Island is mixed into some lower grade and 
causes mischief until it is nailed under the lid of the 
shipping case. 

Another place where much mischief is done, and w^hich 
is inexcusable, is where a man Avill change drawing 
frames, slubbers, speeders, and laps one number into 
another. It is done oftentimes on the speeders by not 
changing gears until the machine has been doffed, leav- 
ing about a yard of sliver from bight of roll to the end 
on the bobbin. 

Now this is wrong and should never be tolerated by 
any man who pretends to understand his business at all, 
and a man who does not understand his business has no 
right to a position of trust or responsibility until he has 
learned better. 

Too strong a protest cannot be entered against such 
changing. Take, for instance, a speeder running on 
three-hank roving and being spun into No. 24s. The 
carder gets an order to change the same to two hank to 
make No. 16s. Now, suppose he changes his speeder 
and lapse, a yard of that three-hank on each bobbin, 
what be the result? Let us look into it. 

The spinner changes his frames, and no matter how 
much pains is taken, when those yards of three-hank 
roving come to pass through, what does it spin? For 
every yard there is spun eight yards of No. 24s, and 
worse than all it is slack twisted and worthless for -any- 
thing but waste. 



48 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

But you say : ''There is very little of that practiced" ; 
but it is practiced a good deal, not so much by mills 
running on staple goods as in mills making frequent 
changes. 

A speeder, or frame of any kind, can be changed be- 
fore doffing without lapsing one bit, if it is started just 
a little after the gears are changed. When the buyer 
orders a different grade or class of goods of the mill 
agent, and it is handed to the superintendent, who re- 
quires his overseers to make a change, the change should 
be a radical one. 

Nothing short of a clean change, a good fit — a radical 
change is the greatest synonomous term which alone 
will suit the purchaser, the requirements of the agent 
and management of superintendent. 

NEGLECTED PARTS OF A SPINNING FRAME. 

With all the push and energy that is put into the 
work of taking care of spinning machinery, it would 
hardly be thought that some parts are so badly neg- 
lected. 

Let any superintendent or overseer examine what is 
being done by section men to protect isolated parts that 
seem unimportant, and yet which cannot be dispensed 
with, and see for himself. These slow running parts 
cannot speak for themselves, like fast running parts can. 
If a cylinder bearing is not oiled, it will soon give warn- 
ing by heating and getting afire. But not so with very 
slow running parts. The writer has seen slow moving 
and reciprocating parts of a spinning frame so neg- 
lected, that for want of oil, the journal became so solidi- 
fied with its bearing that a nicer job could not have been 
done, if it had been welded in a blacksmith shop. One 
of these neglected parts refused to work recently, and 
when removed from the frame, the section man thought 



HOW TO STRAIGHTEN OUT A COTTON MILL. 49 

it was all one piece. The overseer, by virtue of his su- 
perior knowledge, convinced him that it was in two 
pieces — a journal and a bearing — and yet the two were 
so solidified as to defy detection of where the two parts 
came together. This was, to all appearances, a well- 
managed spinning room, and to have these things hap- 
pen, shows that still closer inspection of the oiling de- 
partment is necessary. 

What are these neglected parts? One is the roving 
traverse motion. This being under the rolls and out of 
sight, it does not receive much attention, until a whole 
side of leather-covered top-rolls are creased and ruined, 
or a whole side of ends break to announce that this mo- 
tion is on a "spree" at the company's expense. It will 
repay any mill to have these thoroughly inspected. Per- 
haps some of them have not been looked at or oiled since 
the frames Avere last scoured. A careful inspection of 
these will, if they have not received proper attention, 
reveal that some are not running ; some run the traverse 
rod too far to one side ; some have too short a traverse ; 
while others are wearing out for want of oil. Another 
important matter about this motion, is the dwell, when 
changing back-lashing and dwelling should be removed. 

The next forsaken motion is the heart cam of the bob- 
bin builder, with all its far-reaching underpinning, and 
in which there are joints and bearings and almost all 
the movements known to mechanics. Does anyone, who 
should, know just how often these are oiled? If not, 
then trouble may be looked for all along this line. 
Doubtless some of these things go for months without 
being lubricated. The heart cams should be kept 
greased. This cam works very hard, and if it remains 
without being lubricated, the point soon wears off. This 
causes dwelling at the change and builds imperfect 
bobbins. 
4 



50 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

Of course, these evils do not matter, if the officials 
prefer to take it easy, and let the company go on paying 
the bills. The rocker bearings support the ring-rails, 
and their balancing weights, all of which amount to 
several hundreds of pounds. All these bearings should 
be greased often enough to prevent wear. But, this 
care of isolated parts goes further. It makes things 
run easier, and saves power. This article applies to ring- 
twisters as well, also to all ring frames of any textile 
manufacturing plant, whether cotton, woolen, silk or 
Jinen, and other machines having slowly moving parts. 



HOW TO BE AN IDEAL FIXER. 51 

V. 
HOW TO BE AN IDEAL FIXER. 

Textile macliinery is made up of so many small parts 
and counter parts, and their relationships are so pecu- 
liarly dependent one upon the other, and their relative 
adjustments require such close setting that good fixers 
are in great demand. They are like oil on the troubled 
waters. 

To commence our story, it is only fair to state that 
an ideal fixer must be of a mechanical turn of mind. 
Simply to know how to run the machine does not imply 
being a good fixer. But a good fixer should know hoAv 
to run the machine. He is like the good physician who 
can cure the sick. The fixer's work is like the different 
medicines. Each has its place and when properly ap- 
plied removes the evils. 

To name some of the specially good qualities of the 
ideal fixer, we would say he knows his trade, keeps his 
machinery in good running order without losing valua- 
ble time, and is economical. In other words, like the 
good rule of proportion, he has three well defined terms 
in his make up: He knows how to fix his machines; is 
quick at his work; and never wasteful. When it is re- 
membered that the officials make the smallest margin of 
allowance for stoppages, when figuring the possible pro- 
duction of machines, — it is necessary that the ideal fixer 
have these qualities well established in his character. 
For the fixer is between two fires; and his critics are 
numerous and severe. Above him are many of the lead- 
ing officials who have had their turn with the hammer 
and monkey wrench, and they know when good work has 
been done without seeing much of the man at the bench. 
Most of these officials above him — the second hands. 



52 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

overseers, superintendents and managers, have reached 
the front ranks by virtue of their excellent fixing. 

Below the fixer are the help, who are none the less 
severe. Most of them are piece-workers, and the run- 
ning time of their machines is their bread and butter. 
Woe to the fixer who is not a hustling, quick, genial son 
of the right metal. 

Behind all these good qualities, the ideal fixer must 
have good tools, and like the man with a system, he 
must know where they are so as to have them when 
needed. On his person he should carry a small screw- 
driver, caliper rule, pocket level, jack-knife, pencil, small 
adjustable wrench, pliers, and whatever else, in a small 
way, that is adapted to his section. The heavier tools 
he will have orderly packed in a small hand box. The 
idea of all this convenience is to be prepared to fix many 
trifling disorders without going to the bench for every 
tool needed. In applying his force when putting parts 
of machines together he is very careful to make perfect 
fits and not drive things together so hard that when the 
time arrives to take machines apart, valuable time is 
lost, and excessive breakages ensue. 

When several parts are being taken down requiring 
reassembling, he marks all parts relatively and avoids 
all possible confusion in re-setting the machine. He is 
efiicient with his note book. 

The ideal fixer is resourceful. He never gets stuck. 
He has some way of getting onto his feet in the quickest 
possible time when thrown down by several breaks at 
one time. This kind of a fixer has few draw backs ; be- 
cause he has the complete sympathy of the help and the 
officials. They all want the belts on the tight pulleys, 
and are on his side. He will be very popular, and is 
destined to rise when his turn duly approaches. 



HOW TO PREVENT MILL FIRES. 53 

VI. 
HOW TO PREVENT MILL FIRES. 

EXTERNAL CAUSES. 

As to much cannot be done to arouse practical interest 
in protecting our mills from the ravages of fire, it is pre- 
sumed that many readers may be interested in a brief 
study of this subject. After a fire the questions arise: 
What was the cause ; where did it begin ; and how did it 
occur? In many cases no satisfactory answer can be 
given, and the cause of a conflagration remains an un- 
solved mj'Sterj^ It should not seem strange that fires 
originate from undiscovered sources when various condi- 
tions are taken into consideration. It may afford some 
anxious inquirers relief to study their causes from the 
following outlined account : Nearly all fires of unknoAvn 
origin are attributed to some internal cause, but possibly 
more of them are the result of external cause than is really 
known, as will later be shown in this article. It seems 
best to consider this subject under two heads, namely, 
external and internal causes, and arrange their sub-di- 
visions as follows : External causes : Sun glasses, aero- 
lites, electricity, incendiarism and contiguous fires. In- 
ternal causes : Boiler explosions, lighting mill, matches, 
spontaneous combustion and friction. Taking the first 
topic, it has been surmised that so-called bubbles in win- 
dow glass may, if the sun ever comes within the right 
focus, become sun glasses and set fire. This supposition 
does not seem unreasonable to believe. However, the 
possible danger of fire from this cause is obviated in the 
modern mill by the use of ribbed thick glass window 
panes which also diffuse the light much better than ordi- 
nary glass panes. Mills equipped with ordinary win- 



54 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

dow glass might, to be on the safe side, have all their 
windows carefully inspected and remove panes having 
suspicious imperfections. A partial remedy is to have 
window shades which should be drawn when the sun's 
rays are strong. Some mills have the lower half of their 
windows painted, thus partly preventing danger. There 
may be more fires caused by aerolites or meteoric stones 
than can be authentically ascertained. It is supposed 
that one of the best mills in Massachusetts was set afire 
by an aerolite. The mill was situated in the western 
part of the State. It was well constructed, equipped 
with modern machinery and ably managed. Anyone 
would have classed the same among the most safely 
guarded against fire. It had the advantage of being 
only one story high above basement, thus avoiding drafts 
of elevator and light wells. But like many other mills 
it went up in smoke. The cause of this fire has been 
attributed to an aerolite. It is possible that other fires 
have originated in the same way. Electric storms cause 
many fires, and it is surprising to note how few mills are 
affected by them. One would naturally think that so 
much iron and steel would furnish so much attraction 
as to cause serious trouble, and yet few mills, compara- 
tively, are struck by lightning. But it is well to guard 
against the danger by observing a few general rules. It 
is not best to have large trees near the mill. Some mills 
are provided with the often persecuted lightning rod, 
but these are not recommended. The most important 
matter to be considered under this head is the proper 
way to hang and protect the wires of a plant. The mod- 
ern mill has a great deal of wiring. There are the call- 
bell wires, fire alarm, watchman's clock, telephone, elec- 
tric light, and in some places the electric-power-con- 
ducting wires. All these wires should be properly iso- 
lated and provided with safety appliances. Among all 



HOW TO PREVENT MILL FIRES. 55 

the safety appliances none are so often left out as the 
safety fuses, especially on very small wires. This mat- 
ter should never be overlooked in the specifications. 
Wires having the safety fuses can never conduct an 
overcharge or dangerous current farther than the fuse. 
There it will burn out the connection and avoid damage. 
Wires should also be hung to the greatest advantage, so 
as to avoid too frequent crossing of wires. Great care 
should be taken to see that every precaution is taken in 
wiring a plant so as to ensure perfect safety in every 
detail, and no fires will result from improper wiring. 
Under the head of incendiarism some mysterious fires 
can be classed. Much fear of incendiarism is unneces- 
sary, for few persons have any inclination to cause the 
destruction of property and risk of being found out. 
The writer shrinks from publishing any of the ways 
which some evil minded person could employ to clandes- 
tinely set fire lest it might furnish material for an evil 
doer. (The press should guard against giving unneces- 
sary information of how wrong doing is done lest some 
one may learn how to do the same.) Let us hope that 
few mill fires are caused by incendiarism, although some 
mysterious fires may be the result of foul play. Among 
external causes of fire are the sparks which can be car- 
ried from contiguous fires. Extra care should be taken 
to protect a plant during times of adjacent fires. Doors 
and windows should be closed and everything put in 
readiness for service in case of need. 

INTERNAL CAUSES. 

[The following article on " Internal Ceases of Mill Fires " appears in 
** Fibre and Fabric," and will be read with interest and perhaps profit 
by many residents of Lowell. — FroA77 Lom)ell Sun, October 27, 1902.] 

Boiler explosions may be rare and not always set a 
mill on fire, but the}^ are certainly undesirable occur- 



56 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

rences. Besides blasting things generally, they some- 
times start serious conflagrations, and therefore are not 
to be trusted. A steam plant properly cared for rarely 
has an explosion. A caution to the wise is enough. 
Electric lighting is the best and safest system of lighting 
mills. There is less danger of fire from it. Gas is not 
so safe. Where kerosene lamps are used there is greater 
danger of fire, and the same should be supplanted by an 
up-to-date electric lighting plant. Probably there are 
more fires caused by the careless handling of matches 
than is supposed. Caution should be given not to carry 
matches loosely. They should always be carried in 
safety boxes. What is better is to require that only re- 
sponsible persons carry matches, and that only safety 
matches be carried in the mill and around the yard. The 
so-called safety matches cannot be ignited by ordinary 
friction. They will only ignite when scratched against 
the prepared surface on side of the box which contains 
them. Therefore danger is not so liable to ensue from 
the dropping of these matches in the stock or in cracks 
anj^where in the mill. Spontaneous combustion of oily 
materials is one of the most natural results of neglect as 
well as most mysterious cause of fire. Oily pieces of 
waste and cast-away garments, which are more or less 
saturated with oil, should never be allowed to remain in 
a mill throughout the night. Even during the day time 
oily waste should be kept in self-closing metal cans 
made for the purpose. There should be thorough sys- 
tem of cleaning, not only of the exposed surface of ma- 
chines, but also the concealed parts should be frequently 
scoured so as to make sure that there is no possible 
chance for any bits of oily waste to escape being re- 
moved. Help should be impressed with the importance 
of doing this well. They should also be cautioned not 
to leave their aprons, overskirts and overalls in the mill 



HOW TO PREVENT MILL FIRES. 57 

when such garments are saturated with oil, as is fre- 
quently the ease. The writer has often observed that 
help remove such garments before stopping time and 
hang them on steam pipe valves, or tuck them back of 
the steam pipes or waste boxes and oil tanks. This 
should be strictly forbidden. It has been proved that a 
pair of overalls, which was saturated with linseed oil 
and then snugly packed away, caused spontaneous com- 
bustion in a ver^^ short time. All waste should be re- 
moved from a mill every night and the oily waste should 
be kept in a separate building. In this way, if spon- 
taneous combusion takes place, no great damage can be 
done. More fires result from friction than from any 
other source. In order to reduce friction to a mini- 
mum, it is necessary to begin on the cotton field. At the 
time of picking, gathering and during the process of gin- 
ning and compressing into bales, it is highlj^ important 
that great care be taken to prevent foreign substances 
from getting into the stock, such as gravel, sand, nails, 
bagging, pieces of hoop iron and matches, etc. The 
same care must be exercised at the time of opening and 
mixing cotton for the picker room. As more fires hap- 
pen in the picker room than in any other department of 
a mill, too much cannot be said in favor of good manage- 
ment from the beginning. Hot bearings are the cause 
of many fires. All bearings should be kept clean and 
well lubricated. To keep the oil perfectly pure, oil 
tanks must be frequently cleaned and kept closed. In 
this way the oil will be kept entirely free from dust or 
grit. Grit in oil is sure to cause overheated bearings. 
Flaked graphite is a good thing to keep on hand to re- 
duce friction in new and old bearings, and for cases of 
emergency where bearings may suddenly become over- 
heated. No moving parts of machines and belts should 
be obstructed by anything out of place which would 



58 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

cause undue frietiou. A waste box against a pulley may 
cause fire. Whenever a spindle band breaks, the attend- 
ant must iuTestigate at once to see that it is not en- 
tangled with other bands, or caught around the cylinder 
or pulley, as this is apt to cause fire. In the line of ex- 
tinguishing apparatus an ample supply of fire pails and 
tanks kept full of water, hand grenades, small hose 
pipes, etc., kept in good order and evenly distributed in 
each department, may often prove valuable agents for 
arresting fires at the start. The small hose pipes should 
be connected to the automatic sprinkler pipes and con- 
veniently located. Force pumps must be frequently 
tested to ensure perfect readiness and prompt response 
in case of necessity. Many corporations have fire de- 
partments of their own, which are made up of the men 
employed by them. Formerly mill fire departments 
were made up of only a small number of the male help, 
but the latest scheme is to enlist all the male help into 
a strong and vigorous fire department. It is certainly 
more commendable to do this and arouse the interest 
of the young men to share the responsibility with the 
more experienced men, rather than to confine the whole 
responsibility to a limited number. False alarms could 
be given often enough to keep them well drilled and in 
constant readiness for actual service when needed. The 
experienced manager understands at once the advan- 
tage of such an organization. The Cotton Manufactur- 
ers' Mutual Insurance companies have done wonders in 
giving instructions in this line, and to them is due great 
credit for fire prevention in our mills. However, no 
matter what precautions are taken to prevent fires, there 
are fires, and so long as certain materials remain com- 
bustible there will be fires. But there is yet a broad 
field for improvement in the line of fire prevention and 
of arresting fires when they do occur. 



COSTLY EXPERIENCES PREVENTED. 59 

VII. 

COSTLY EXPERIENCES PREVENTED. 

There is an old Avise saying that "a stitch in time 
saves nine.'' There is another, which reads that "an 
ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." In no 
avocation can this advice be taken with greater profit 
than in the textile industries. That many men owe the 
success which crowns their efforts to prevention of 
costly and ruinous expenses, is as true as of those who 
have won their laurels by other accomplishments. To 
be tactful, precautious, and have the foresight to pre- 
vent disastrous events, is a characteristic which is worth 
cultivating by any man who courts a responsible posi- 
tion. 

To exemplify this kind of service so that the thought- 
ful reader may understand and be instructed, if heeded, 
let us follow the man who carries the full drift of this 
advice with him all the time, and see how he prevents 
trouble. 

We will take the superintendent of a textile plant for 
an example and see how he applies the ounce of preven- 
tion. Watch this man going to see his mills start in the 
morning. He is all eyes; all ears; and has the refined 
scent of a hound. He may have had five to ten years' 
experience as a superintendent, and has brushed against 
all the ordinary emergencies that arise. He knows the 
complete value of precautionary methods. He never 
takes any chances, and takes the surest way to accom- 
plish all his objects. 

On his way to the mill he perhaps notices that there 
is a little water oozing from the embankment of the mill 
dam. He realizes instantly that a leak in the dam is a 



60 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

serious thing. No time must be lost; for in two hours' 
time it may take two thousand dollars to repair a break 
that might result from neglect of the small leak. He 
prevents a costly experience by ordering the water 
drawn from the reservoir, and has the leaky premises 
fortified for a few dollars. 

In the mill he notices perhaps that there is sign of 
weakness in a certain shaft which may break any time. 
He wires dimensions ahead for a duplicate, or stronger 
substitute, and installs it at the earliest possible moment 
available and prevents an accident, possibly a prolonged 
stoppage of the mill, and costly repairs besides. 

This is his policy every day, all through the mill and 
he trains his subordinates to never turn a deaf ear to 
any sound that means a warning. 

There are many other instances that could be related 
of where prevention is success. As "it is the last straw 
that breaks the camePs back,'' so it may be one idle 
spindle that will ruin the firm. If one spindle is allowed 
to remain idle, it may lead the help to become careless 
and allow hundreds of spindles to be stopped until it 
becomes as serious as the leak in the dam — sweeping 
all the profits into the water. (That is what makes 
watered stock so perilous.) 

The unruly tongue of a vicious hand may set all the 
help on fire and drive a firm to the wall. The same 
moral applies here — discover the evil promptly and dis- 
charge the evil worker. To allow an individual to have 
a "soft snap," may unsettle the thrift of the entire force. 
Let none come short of earning what they are paid for, 
otherwise there may be a much reduced efficiency in gen- 
eral, and the firm be driven to reduce wages, making a 
bad matter worse. 

Thus it can be readily understood by the intelligent 



COSTLY EXPERIENCES PREVENTED. 61 

reader why it is that the experience of a precautious 
superintendent is worth so much more to a corporation 
than a man who simply knows (?) it all, but lacks fore- 
sight and precautionary methods. That a mill whose 
executive force is organized on this basis can make more 
money than a plant whose officials are wasteful and let 
themselves be overtaken by accidents, which could be 
avoided is reasonable to expect. This may explain in 
a measure the difference between some paying plants 
and some that merely drag along. 



62 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

VIII. 

OFFICE TRAINING. 

The relation of the coming man and the office end of a 
cotton mill is one which is highly important to consider 
and adjust, and yet this is a matter which is not given 
its due consideration in connection with the rise of an 
overseer to the management of a mill. While it is of 
the utmost importance that an overseer be an excellent 
manufacturer, it is also of great value to him to have 
considerable knowledge of the business end, to be un- 
hampered in his promotion to a superintendency. As a 
rule the overseer who is promoted to higher service knows 
at least one department of the mill thoroughly. He 
has also been a close observer of the other dejjartments, 
has studied and trained himself by every fair advantage 
to gain a stronghold upon the essential requisites of 
what he needs to understand about the other depart- 
ments. 

Superintendents have not only been selected from the 
manufacturing end, but from most every point of con- 
nection with a mill. Although they are quite evenly 
distributed between carders, spinners and weavers, many 
have won distinction as good managers who have been 
selected from the finishing, designing, mechanical and 
accounting departments. But in any case they are all, 
as a rule, broad, capable men who have grasped every 
opportunity to render themselves useful beyond their 
^^wn special departments, and secures business training 
that enabled them to measure up to many petty as well 
as more grave requirements of the office end of the busi- 
ness. 

It is, therefore, of great advantage for a man, both 
for himself and the interests of his company, to familia- 



OFFICE TRAINING. 63 

rize himself with the office end of the trade, and meet 
it on its own ground. It is to this end that this article 
is prepared, and suggestions formulated whereby those 
who are not acquainted with this end, and would like to 
review and ascertain some of the oftice requirements, 
can gain some knowledge of this important branch and 
be better prepared to stand their ground. 

In the first place a man should accustom himself to be- 
ing a good legible writer. Almost any man, no matter 
how illegibly he may write, can greatly improve his 
hand by taking 12 or 24 writing lessons and practicing 
half an hour each day for three to six months. He 
should accustom himself to taking notes rapidly, and be 
quick to interpret notes handed to him. As an overseer 
he has had a limited experience in this line. His notes 
have been few and he has had plenty of time to produce 
them and interpret those sent to him. When he becomes 
manager he may be flooded with dozens of details at one 
time, and will wish he had as many hands to jot them 
down. Hence the importance of being able to take and 
make notes rapidly and abbreviating them sufficiently 
intelligent so that the all important points are not lost 
sight of. The would-be manager should also be quick 
to read and decipher his treasurer's abbreviated notes, 
of which he will get scores in a moment at times. 

Another valuable training required is the art of tabu- 
lating and recording intelligently original results of 
tests, processes and averages. It often occurs that a 
superintendent is called upon to render reports of his 
findings in various lines to his treasurer, and such re- 
ports should have a scholarly demeanor, which indicates 
grasp of the subject to its fullest extent. 

Incorrect spelling is another draw-back to the prac- 
tical man. Good spelling and correct syntax should be 
the exclusive rule. Another virtue well worth cultivat- 



64 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

ing is the art of filing records and having system so 
well in hand that research is reduced to a science. The 
man who ''had (?) that paper/' and "knows just where 
it is," "and can't find it/' is very common, simply because 
of his lack of previous training. Unless a man trains 
himself into these preliminary official requirements, he 
will be seriously handicapped in his advanced positions. 

The writer calls the above only preliminaries sugges- 
tively^, because the man is noAV only on the eve of his 
office particulars. He must have vastly broader insight 
into the office yet, if he would sing well to its music. 
The cotton mill office is more than a row of oak desks, 
some clerks and a clock. (There are, of course, some 
mill offices into which the most important thing about 
it is the clock on the wall.) 

For the benefit of our students we Avill dissect the 
office into its component divisions and show that a well 
governed accounting room has no chaos about it. 
Everything is so well systematized that if a man will 
familarize himself with its divisions and sub-depart- 
ments he will have the key to strengthen the interests 
of the compan}^ to a considerable extent. The writer 
does not mean by this that the proposed manager should 
be a good bookkeeper himself; for this is not necessary. 
But he should know the situation sufficiently well to be 
able to grasp things and know whether the accounts 
are kept as they should be to give a clear understand- 
ing of the local plant, and in such a way that no losses 
are sustained by misplacement of manufacturing de- 
tails. Bookkeepers are many, but few strictly under- 
stand the relation of the manufacturing end to the ac- 
counting end. If they are not watched oftentimes they 
will charge supplies to the wrong department. Heavy 
bills like those paid for machinery or warper beams may 
be charged to supplies, instead of to equipment. Items 
entered like this will cause the mill to show less earn- 



OFFICE TRAINING. 65 

ing capacity for the time being or a total loss; while, 
on the other hand, if such items are charged to equip- 
ment, thus increasing the permanent value of the plant, 
only interest should be charged to the manufacturing 
end, and the mill would show profit instead of a loss. 
Thus the bright reader now more readily understands 
the necessity of knowing how to "do things" a la proper 
accounting. 

But the overseer asks himself, can these things really 
occur in an office where skilled men are paid to scale. 
proportions to a science? The writer begs to advise 
that the office needs as careful supervision by the man- 
ager to protect the company's due averages and per 
centages as the manufacturing does, because they often 
do make bad mistakes for want of advice from the numu- 
facturing agent. Some of these points will be illustrated 
as we proceed Avith our paper on this imijortant sub- 
ject. 

A well governed office is divided into general de- 
partments covering every phase of the business with 
reference to the accounting, and are essentially as fol- 
lows : 



1. 


Organization. 


14. 


Tenement. 


2. 


Pay Roll. 


15. 


Welfare. 


3. 


Correspondence. 


16. 


Farming. 


4. 


Purchasing. 


17. 


Provision Store. 


5. 


Receiving. 


18. 


Yard. 


6. 


Advertising. 


19. 


Engineering. 


7. 


Order. 


20. 


General Expenses. 


8. 


Manufacturing. 


21. 


Cost Finding. 


9. 


Sales. 


22. 


Bank Account. 


10. 


Shipping. 


23. 


Auditing. 


11. 


Exchange. 


24. 


Secret Service. 


12. 


Profit and Loss. 


25. 


Diary and Statistical 


13. 


Stock Account. 
5 







66 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

Taking these departments in their natural order, we 
will proceed to outline their special siguiticance and at 
the same time note the particular relationship of the 
mill superintendent to each division. 

ORGANIZATION. 

The first matter which comes up is the opening of a 
set of books. One of Avhich wil contain the list of stock 
holders and their addresses ; capital stock ; amount paid 
in; and par value. A board of directors is elected and 
the^^ in turn determine the policy of the company, elect 
a list of officers and outline their respective duties. The 
•date of their annual meeting is decided upon and busi- 
ness proceeds about as represented under the following 
(different departments. 

THE PAY ROLL. 

In regard to the pay roll, this is a department to Avhich 
close attention Avill amply repay the company. The gen- 
eral superintendent must see that the pay rolls of each 
department in the mill are uniformily made out. In 
some mills each overseer has a Avliim or method of his 
own to keep the time. Some may enter the time once 
per day, others twice per Aveek; one may put down the 
time in hours, another by days; the rates in one case 
may be posted at a price per day, while in another case 
the rate may be by the week, day or hour; and there is 
a further confusion when one man figures out the pay 
roll by decimals and others by fraction. Tlu^ object 
of the pay roll is to keep the time properly and pay 
each ])erson what is agreed. I'nless tlu^ uu^hods are 
uniform throughout the plant many Avho work in differ- 
ent parts of tlie plant, even at tlie same rate per day, may 
receive different amounts. The object of tlie su])erin- 
tendent must be entirelv eliminate^ sncli needless con- 



OFFICE TRAINING. 67 

fusion. He should insist that all employees are treated 
by the same methods. The writer has seen this con- 
fusion in some mills, and the office end never interfere 
or offer a suggestion to create uniformity. 

Here is where the manager steps in and renders him- 
self useful. He should also insist that no errors be made 
in putting the money into the envelopes in the office. 
A careful method of checking eliminates this evil. Help 
that are systematically and correctly paid have more 
confidence and are better satisfied than where frequent 
mistakes have to be rectified. 

Another factor which enters the paj^ roll section is 
the matter of dividing or putting the costs where they 
belong. It is unfair to borrow a man from one depart- 
ment for a week and not transfer his time to its proper 
place on the time sheet. The office end does not under- 
stand this and it belongs to the superintendent to see 
that these matters are properly adjusted, so that costs 
are accurately apportioned. Thus it is already no- 
ticed, at the outset, that the manufacturer and the office 
are so closely related that they cannot be separated and 
operated apart. The executive must run the office and 
know his place there. 

CORRESPONDENCE. 

A capable superintendent is called upon to handle a 
great deal of correspondence, all of which he understands 
how to dispose of with dispatch and proper bearing to 
each subject. He is not afraid of details, thinks fast, 
and dictates accordingly. As it is only b}^ correspon- 
dence, as a rule, that a plant keeps in touch with the 
world to hold and enlarge its business, the mail is the 
life of the plant. It is, therefore, important that an in- 
telligent superintendent keep in touch with and follows 
up the progressive correspondence, so that he can be 



68 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

alive to the calls of his firm with relation to the public. 
The man who understands his trade should have access 
to the correspondence and shape it to his firm's most 
careful advantage. When the correspondence is not fol- 
lowed by the man at the wheel a great deal of confusion 
arises from errors. Mistakes are made in ordering sup- 
plies; accepting orders for goods that are not adapted 
for the mill to manufacture. Hence the need of office 
training for the overseer who aspires to manage a mill. 

PURCHASING DEPARTMENT. 

The mill superintendent needs to be a good buyer, and 
know where to get good supplies. Man^^ mills have lost 
vast sums for want of this ability vested in its super- 
vising head. Again some managers have special ability 
in this line, and can earn a great deal of money for their 
mills, but having no ^^say" in this department, large 
losses are incurred because the buying is unwisely trans- 
acted by a clerk who cannot possibly realize the situation 
so well as the man who must use those goods. It must 
not be inferred that a superintendent should attend to 
the smallest details himself. But, unless he has a good 
knowledge of the markets, and can advise and dictate 
the buying, he is often times supervising a losing plant, 
or not earning so much with his mill as he might. 
Another element of safety which enters the purchasing 
proposition, is the proper style of ordering. A wise 
supervisor will see that his orders for machinery and 
supplies are specifically given. Vast amounts are lost 
owing to wrong goods being sent from supply centres, 
because details were not mentioned. Sizes, st^des, quan- 
tities, shipping directions should be given in full. And 
the overseer should think along these lines and be pre- 
pared to take in the situation and dictate. When he 
becomes superintendent he should scan the order sheets 
and protect the interests at stake. 



OFFICE TRAINING. 69 

RECEIVING GOODS. 

Having ordered goods it would seem that their arrival 
is only a matter of course, and that no further attention 
need be given. HoAvever, it is found otherwise. The 
receiving department is as important as the purchasing, 
and requires great attention. The man of the moment 
needs to be on his dignity here as well. For want of 
attention some goods he may bo vvaiting for are perhaps 
broken by a earless receiver in opening the box; the parts 
may not be correctly counted; or the goods may be 
shelved and fail to reach the department for which they 
were ordered. What would the new super do in such 
a dilemma? He would, if he liad given his prospects 
some future consideration, be prepared to appoint a 
trusted clerk to receive all gor»ds, and keep a record in 
a book set aside for this purpose. He would insist upon 
careful opening of cases, counts, measures, weights, 
sizes, styles, where from, how transported, for whom pur- 
chased, carriage prepaid or not — all these matters he 
would have properly entered in the receiving book. The 
receiver should also note his stock on hand and not let the 
plant become stalled for want of any line of supplies. Un. 
less the comins^ man looks ahead and lavs out for this, 
he will get caught and suffer. Thus the relation of the 
manufacturing head and the office are intimate as we 
proceed from one to another section of the office. 

ADVERTISING AND INCOMING ORDERS. 

Upon the incoming orders depend the success of the 
plant. Having every facility for making attractive ser- 
viceable goods is not sufficient. There must be a depart- 
ment of publicity or advertising agency through which 
patronage is solicited. The manufacturer who knows 
every detail, and superior advantage at his disposal for 



70 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

making a fine line of goods, is very likely to be liberally 
consulted concerning the technical points which can be 
mentioned in the advertisements to advantage, and his 
relation to this part of the office is not cancelled. As 
the orders come in, dealers may want to modify the 
organization of the goods offered to the trade, and it 
will be necessary to consult the judgment of the superin- 
tendent with reference to the acceptance or rejection 
of the orders. He may be able to suggest some changes 
in what is ordered that would lead a dealer to finally 
adjust his order to the advantage or disadvantage of the 
plant. Thus, business can, at times, be retained or 
gained that makes it more profitable for the plant. 
Right at this point it is of the utmost importance to 
teach the coming head that he should take a deep inter- 
est in the order department and follow up its details 
closely. He will be popular and successful very much 
in proportion to his energy and interest in making the 
order department prolific. He can do this by follow- 
ing up the order books watchfully, and filling them 
promptly. If for any reason there comes delay in ship- 
ment, he should f orsee this so far as practicable, and soon 
a^ discovered, hasten to explain and advise all con- 
cerned. In this way he very likely elicits the sympathy 
of all interested parties and avoids kicks later. 

MANUFACTURING. 

The pigeon holes or books relating to the manufactur- 
ing, in the office, are a record of process, organization 
of goods, together with productive capacities, samples, 
estimated costs, etc. This section will make heavy de- 
mands on tlie superintendent's note book. He should 
be alert to note data complete with reference to all goods 
made and file tliem in this department with samples. 
He should also be familiar with the index of these files. 



OFFICE TRAINING. 71 

SO as to lose no time in reaching the information wanted 
speedily. 

SALES. 

Goods ordered and manufactured does not ahvays 
mean sales. The prospective superintendent should bear 
this prominently in mind. If goods do not tally with 
specifications, or even slight delays occur, the orders 
may be countermanded. His abilit}^ must dominate 
this department and keep it clear of his faults. Another 
strong recommendation for the superintendent is to 
study his close relation to this department — the matter 
of selling prices. He must study his prerogatives in 
this respect. If prices are in keeping with the demand 
of a high grade of goods he can afford to make them. 
But if the house is selling below cost or so low below 
that a leak in the dam strains the margin of profit, he 
must call a halt and state the case in concrete form 
without losing his head. 

SHIPPING. 

If the superintendent follows up the daily shipment 
invoices, he will discover frequently errors that he can 
set right before mailing. Shipping directions are often 
misstated. It is as important to be explicit in giving 
all particulars on the invoice sheets as when purchasing 
goods. 

EXCHANGE. 

Under this head come the bills receivable and bills 
payable. Considering that there are always some cus- 
tomers who are sIoav payers, it is well for the manufac- 
turing agent to know who they are on the list, and not 
pile too much goods on their account. Of bills pa^^able 
it is well to watch the expense accounts and govern his 
purchases prudently and keep the outgoing sums as 



72 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

small as possible. In paying bills the latest methoxi 
is to retain the original bill and only send a copy of the 
bill with the cheek. Having the original bill on file 
for reference precludes the possibility of its being lost 
in the mails. It also prevents the payee from holding 
the original form of the transaction. To hold the origi- 
nal bill on file by the purchaser is valuable data when 
desiring to repeat a purchase or for possible legal evi- 
dence. 

PROFIT AND LOSS. 

This department is of no small moment to the manu- 
facturing head. He is operating his mills for the profit 
side of the ledger, and if his record shows up on the loss 
side he is sure to run against some grievances which 
need to be remedied, whether the loss is incurred in his 
special movements or caused by market fluctuations. In 
either case he must bear his full share of the burden. 
It is, of course, important that the manufacturing head 
knows which way the wind blows in this matter. The 
chief reason why he should not be kept guessing as to 
which side of the ledger his balances drop is that he is 
sort of an investor of the company's fund into .the plant. 
He figures same as the capitalist does, viz., that the more 
ho invests of the company's mone^' into the plant, the 
larger returns he can turn over to his treasurer. To 
illustrate this point well, we will suppose that the mill 
is on a paying basis and that the superintendent is 
posted on the department in question. He sees a chance 
to put another responsible man at work in the mill, and 
that in order to make this move he must spend, say 
$2,000 more this year, but that the expenditure will 
return good dividends. He knows the mill can carry 
the load and so he takes the step. But suppose the 
mill is carrying heavy losses, it might not be able to 



OFFICE TRAINING. 73 

carry the extra load even though it would prove a paying 
investment; but if the mill cannot invest it, it might 
prove the last straw to break the camel's back. There- 
fore, the superintendent must not, through his ignorance, 
make a move without getting into touch with this depart- 
ment first. 

STOCK ACCOUNT. 

There are three phases of this to record and explain : 
First, the finished stock on hand; second, the stock in 
process ; third, the value of each. The need of accurate 
figures on these three phases of the stock account will 
command more than ordinary attention. The superin- 
tendent needs to audit the account of finished stock on 
hand and satisfy himself that it is faithfully checked off 
and proved. If he does not do this mistakes are sure to in- 
volve the management in false balances. The value of 
the finished goods is based upon the market price at the 
time of stock taking. The market gain or loss should 
not be mixed with local profits. The stock in process 
is quite a complicated matter, and yet the trained mill 
man has no difficulty in getting at fairly close figures. 
Actual amounts should be ascertained so far as practic- 
able and otherwise ; lumps should be estimated with im- 
partial judgment. It is best not to have the men take 
account of stock on a holiday, because on such occasions 
they are apt to hasten unduly and arrive at inaccurate 
results. Having taken the stock in process, the superin- 
tendent will need to follow up same into the office, and 
see that proper values are placed upon each group as 
the stock advances toward finished goods. The office 
clerks, in their haste to finish their reports, are apt to 
smother differences and show the mill to be on a differ- 
ent basis from that on which it really is. A simple illus- 
tration will initiate the reader into the proper method. 



74 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

If cotton is worth 10 cents per pound and the stock 
shrinks 10 per cent in passing through the carding de- 
partment, all the stock in process in that department 
is worth 10 per cent more than the price of raw cotton. 
This will include all finished rovings that is in the spin- 
ning department. This stock would now be worth 11 
cents per pound. To this add one-half cost of carding 
for all unfinished stock in carding room. Assuming 
that the cost of carding is 60 cents, the card room un- 
finished stock would be worth 11.30 cents per pound. 
The finished card room stock in carding and spinning 
rooms would be worth 11.60, plus one-third of the gen- 
eral cost per pound. Estimating the general cost to be 

75 cents per pound, would make 11.55 cents for the un- 
finished carded stock and 11.85 cents for the finished 
carded stock. All yarns in the spinning room would be 
worth 11.85 cents, plus cost of spinning, plus one-third 
of the general cost, plus three per cent shrinkage. Fin- 
ished cloth would be worth one to two per cent more, ac- 
cording to shrinkage, plus cost of weaving and finishing 
and one-third of the general cost. Add to this a reason- 
ably estimated profit and the status is then fairly known. 
If the new superintendent is not familiar with these 
figures and does not follow up the accounting end of 
this, he does not know whether he is being giyen credit 
for the exact state of things. As cost of goods is made 
on the basis of periodical stock taking it is of the grayest 
necessity to get at the true state of things. 

TENEMENTS, FARMING AND PROVISION STORE. 

While many mills own and operate these departments, 
and economic questions arise therewith, they are not so 
complicated as to require a chapter at this time. The 
same can be said of the mill yard. It is sufficient to add 
that each department is treated separately on the books. 



OFFICE TRAINING. 75 

The yard is an expense proposition purely, while the 
former three departments are revenue bearing proposi- 
tions. The records show the expense accounts of each 
and the earning capacities separately. 

WELFARE WORK. 

Next to the tenement department of the office comes 
a valuable side line, which at the present time is com- 
mencing to be recognized as an indispensable depart- 
ment to a large plant. Under the management of a care- 
ful welfare work manager, the superintendent can ac- 
complish much better results. As this service affects 
every hand in his mills, he is directly interested in the 
success of this branch of the business and should culti- 
vate its acquaintance. It makes a vast difference to him 
whether his help are well housed, have good sanitary 
arrangements, schools, churches, entertainments, and all 
that goes toward making the help cheerful and ambi- 
tious. Many a good superintendent could accomplish 
greater results with a welfare department, and others 
have failed for want of good help, which could not be 
secured because the conditions were too far from being 
attractive in the way of modern conveniences. 

ENGINEERING. 

The modern mill office nowadays gives a liberal corner 
to the engineering operations. In times past not much 
attention Avas paid b}^ a superintendent to the engineer- 
ing problems. In these modern times the new superin- 
tendent is expected not to waste coal dust, nor to allow 
smoke to curl above the top of the smoke stack. He will 
be invited to air his views as to how many (?) horse 
power he can obtain from a pound of coal, and called 
upon to exercise his dimensions on the subject of power. 
And the mathematical problems in connection there- 



76 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

with are so complicated that the rising man needs to ap- 
proach beyond the portals of this department and study 
its possibilities; not, of course, with the idea of becom- 
ing a skilled fireman or engineer, but to know its essen- 
tials and not be a total stranger in its branches. The 
cost of steam and power is a matter of great moment 
in all steam operated plants, and many superintendents 
have more than saved their annual salaries by their in- 
telligent knowledge of power economics. The office rec- 
ords of this department show not only the economic effi- 
ciencies of the power plant, but included in the records 
are the plans, specifications, quotations, together with 
data completely indicating where are hydrants, stand- 
pipes, valves, boundary lines, waterways, etc. For want 
of such a system valuable time has been wasted probing 
around to locate things. This department is also ren- 
dered the more valuable when a list of patterns is kept, 
condition of machinery and buildings. These matters 
are brought before the house by the superintendent and 
filed in the engineering department of the office. The 
wide-awake superintendent will find it of great advan- 
tage to inspect the charts of this valuable section, and 
keep himself alive to the needs of his domains. Akin 
to this department is the diary and statistical depart- 
ment. The former is eventful, the latter is the book of 
averages. The general expenses, bank account, auditing 
and secret service should be as well looked after by the 
treasurer, that no intervention be required from the 
manufacturing head. 

COST FINDING. 

This is now the only province of the office which needs 
to be considered in this paper. As this province affects 
the manager and his work more seriously than any 
other, he needs to study well its principles. To be ex- 



OFFICE TRAINING. 77 

pert he should know what is the minimum capacity of 
his plant, and his constant aim should be to realize 100 
per cent of the earning capacity of his mill. Very few 
men are able to reach the full estimate, but keep their 
percentages as high as they can. The nearer they ap- 
proach the top round, the less criticism is brought to 
bear on their management. These men, to hold up their 
end well with the office, must know how to figure and 
prove the clerical work to his satisfaction. If the office 
work is not correct, they must be competent to point out 
the discrepancy and advise how to straighten out the 
same and preserve good feeling. To illustrate, we use 
an example. Here is a mill making a line of goods us- 
ing nominally 28s and 36s yarns. The output of No. 28 
is 50,000 pounds per week, and of No. 36 is 40,000 per 
week, and actual size of the yarns mentioned are respec- 
tively : 29.50 and 39.00, which makes the average yarns 
to equal No. 33.72. On this average the mill is produc- 
ing 90,000 pounds, but the standard production is 94,500 
pounds per week, showing a loss of 5 per cent in the effi- 
ciency of the plant, and is a fairly good showing. The 
above figures would represent the true state of the mill 
efficiency. Now we will suppose that the different re- 
ports reach the office, and that the clerk proceeds to 
record the status of the mill from the nominal yarns, in- 
stead of the actual averages which the writer has known 
to occur. His figures would show a loss of 10 per cent 
instead of an actual loss of 5 per cent. Because he finds 
that No. 28 ^^^arns with 50,000 pounds and No. 36 yarn 
with 40,000 pounds, equals an average of 31.56, and at 
this number, the mill should produce 99,000 pounds, and 
this would show a loss of 10 per cent. This means that, 
at a profit of 3 cents per pound the mill would be losing 
the sum of |270.00, being what the loss of 9,000 pounds 
of yarn would come to at a profit of 3 cents per pound. 



78 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

It therefore occurs to the thoughtful reader, that in fig- 
uring up the earning capacity of a plant, it is well to 
see that the office uses the actual, rather than the theo- 
retical number of yarns, for the basis in making up the 
books. There is another very interesting point to con- 
sider in connection with the earning capacity of a mill. 
Carr} ing forward the above example, we find that if the 
90,000 pounds of goods is sold at a profit of 3 cents per 
pound over all costs, the mill earns |2,700.00 per week. 
If it cost 5% cents per pound, all expenses included, 
then the cost rounds up a sum of |4950.00 per week. 
Now if the standard production is 94,500 pounds, and 
that amount is secured for the same money outlay that 
it took for the 90,000 pounds, there is a two-fold profit 
on the additional production. That is the cost of the 
extra 4,500 pounds would be nothing, or there would be 
a cost of 5 per cent less on the entire lot of 94,500 
pounds. At any rate, the mill would not only gain a 
profit of 3 cents per pound on the 4,500 pounds, but an 
additional profit of 5 per cent reduced cost on the pro- 
duction of the mill, which would amount to about 
1380.00 per week. This shoAvs that a superintendent 
Avho can figure realizes more keenly the fitness of things, 
and that it pays to get off the largest amount of the full 
production that is possible. If a mill is earning $2,700 
per week under ordinar^^ management, but which by ex- 
tra good management can be made to earn over |3,000.00 
per week the effort is worth making. At |2,700.00 per 
Aveek profit, tin's represents 4.68 per cent on a plant 
worth 13,000,000. J^>ut if an energetic man can make 
this same mill earn |3,080.00 per week, it raises the divi- 
dend rate to 5.34 per cent. The overseer in becoming 
the new superintendent must endeavor to be the full pro- 
duction man, or stay where he is, and let the old superin- 
tendent run the mill until he can show better results. 



OFFICE TRAINING. 79 

There are many other problems incidental to the study 
of costs and earning power which need not be discussed 
here. There are special books on this subject and the 
new superintendent should look them up. The writer 
has only endeavored to briefly outline principles, and 
show up the more important aspects of the position and 
its relation to the office. 



80 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

IX. 

HOW TO BUILD A BOBBIN OF YARN. 

In the first place it is necessary to have the building- 
motion properly adjusted. To illustrate the point tan- 
gibly, we will take a warp spinning frame in a cotton 
mill. Why are the bobbins built large at the top and 
small at the bottom, or vice versa? How to adjust all 
the builder motion parts into juxtaposition to overcome 
unevenly built yarn bobbins is a nice mechanical prob- 
lem, which is well worth while for the textile student 
to acquaint himself thoroughly. 

As textile establishments, in their various processes, 
wind and unwind millions of bobbins dailv, and as the 
success of such plants depends upon properly built bob- 
bins, it is of great importance to have them well wound. 
The cotton may be of best grade and the quality of the 
yarn first class, but if it is not properly wound on the 
bobbins, waste and poor work are sure to folloAV. 

Well built bobbins are the pride of up-to-date mana- 
gers. When the help notice them (and the^^ are sure to 
do so), it appeals to them and makes them better at- 
tendants to their work. Bad bobbins go hand in hand 
with poor help and bad work, and demoralize the best 
intentions. 

Intention is insufficient with which to run a plant 
successfulh'. It must be followed by attention, activity 
and consummation. This spirit must apply to the man 
who builds the bobbins. And to carry out his intention, 
he must be willing to get under the spinning frames con- 
siderably and not be afraid of soiling his hands or his 
clothes. 

Having secured the willingness of our subject to reach 
the bottom of this matter, we will proceed to set the cam- 



HOW TO BUILD A BOBBIN OF YARN. 81 

motion right. Tlie lieart cam sliaft must be level and 
in line with the cylinder. Next the traverse having been 
determined to be, say, seven inches, block or fasten the 
ring rail at three and one-half inches or half way of the 
traverse at the bobbins. Bring the heart cam exactly 
half way over. Hinge the long lever into place and fas- 
ten the contact dog to the long lever at a point under the 
heart cam where it will be plumb Avith the cam shaft; 
that is, directly under the centre of the shaft. Now the 
point of contact wdth the heart cam and the centre of the 
long lever shaft where it is pivoted must be level. If 
not level, the long lever would have to travel farther on 
either the upper or low^er half of its journey, and that is 
what causes top-heavy bobbins, or bobbins larger at the 
base than at the top. Carrying this same principle fur- 
ther, it is for the same reason that the slide gear, or 
take-up arrangements on the long lever, should be so set 
as to travel freely and smoothly. The pulley Avhich car- 
ries the chain to which the rocker lever is fastened is 
another point to consider. The top of the groove of the 
chain pulley must be level with the chain pivot at the 
rocker lever. 

To sum up all these instructions in as simple rule as 
feasible, all hangings must be straight, level, plumb and 
squared truly where parts come to right angles, and ad- 
just the oscillating parts so that the central point cannot 
be traversed farther one way than the other. This rule 
applies to all traverse motion adjustments of any nature. 

When building filling bobbins there is another nice 
point to be considered. Before adjusting the parts as 
indicated, care must be taken to fasten the cam on the 
shaft in such a manner as to build the layer on the bob- 
bin from the bottom to the nose and bind the layers on 
the downward journey; that is, from the nose down in- 
stead of from the base upward to the nose. There are 
6 



82 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

especially good reasons for building the filling bobbins 
in this manner described. It is well known among spin- 
ners that at the nose there is the greatest amount of 
strain on the yarn, because there is so much difference 
between the size of the bobbin and the size of the ring. 

It is also at this point that there is the least amount 
of twist in the yarn, although the fact that the length of 
the yarn has been shortened from bite of rolls to ring 
rail by the ring rail having lifted about two inches, re- 
duces the difference a little. As the ring rail reaches 
the highest point, the return journey should be much fas- 
ter to make a good binder layer. It will also be noticed 
that when the ring rail moves slowly on its upward jour- 
ney that it does not throw the layers so loosely on the 
bobbin and makes a harder nose. When the motion re- 
verses the journey and the speed is accelerated at the 
nose, it binds the nose more firmly and there is less lia- 
bilit}^ of the same becoming ruptured or loosened and 
causing snarling. 

Another valuable point of advantage in an accelerated, 
downward trip is that it drops the ring rail quickly at- a 
point where the yarn or thread needs to be taken hold of 
by a larger part of the bobbin rapidly to relieve the ex- 
cessive tension. In performing this feat a twofold office 
is accomplished. Not only is the tension relieved, but 
the sudden or rapid reversal of the trip causes the thread 
to cross the topmost layer at the nose and bind it so 
firmly that it cannot sling or curl. This is the correct 
theoi^y and practice of proper nose making on all cop- 
ping machines. 

Another important feature of bobbin building is the 
speed of the traverse. Most all machine builders ar- 
range to make the speed run too slow, claiming that it 
lays more yarn on a bobbin. This is an error. At any 
rate this cannot be borne out by practice. The traverse 
rail of any machine when building, that is, not binding, 



HOW TO BUILD A BOBBIN OF YARN. 83 

should run fast enough to lay the yarn in such a way as 
to never permit one layer to override on the same trip of 
the rail. This evil crinkles the yarn and it does not lay 
so smoothly in the subsequent processes; its tendency is 
to strain the yarn at each place where it overrides. 

The worst evil from improperly wound bobbins is the 
vast amount of snarled bobbins, spools, bad work and 
consequent waste. 

Among other important matters bearing upon this 
subject, the cone part of the yarn on the bobbin should 
be no longer than the cone on the bobbin. The bobbin 
cone for If to IJ inch rings should be If inches long and 
taper from 1^ to 19-32 inches. The barrel of the bobbin 
should be 19-32 inches diameter the full length of the 
traverse, and not taper toward the top of the traverse. 

All bobbins should be reamed or bored out to gauge 
often enough to have them set level on the spindles. The 
full length of bobbins can be eight inches or slightly 
more. On an eight inch bobbin there should be seven 
inches of yarn. 

If special attention is paid to all these points the fill- 
ing manufacturing part of the plant will run right, and 
the weavers will give a larger percentage of cloth and 
a higher rate of first quality goods from the filling used. 

Another thing, it is preferable to have the shuttle catch 
groove on the inside of the bobbin barrel rather than on 
the outside. The reason for this is that if the bobbins 
are not all home on the spindles the yarn cannot wind 
into the shuttle catch groove. Filling bobbins, to give 
best results, should find their home base or seat on the 
spindle, into a brass cup. That is, they should fit the 
spindles freely enough so as to never bind, and their 
home seat should be found in the brass cup or seat, and 
be governed by this grip rather than by the grip of the 
spindles. This system prevents bad work in building 
the base of the bobbin. 



84 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

X. 

HOW TO REDUCE WASTE AND BAD WORK. 

At this particular time, when managers are straining 
every effort to reduce wastes and bad work to a mini- 
mum, in order to turn the largest per cent of the raw 
material into perfect, marketable goods, any advice 
which leads to a closer economy in this line, is eagerly 
sought by those who have charge of mills. 

In most mills plenty of time is given to looking after 
the good work itself, and they have elaborate systems 
by which they can tell any day how much they are manu- 
facturing, how much there is on hand, and where it is. 
But in regard to the bad work and waste it entails, not 
all mills have as good a system as is available to deter- 
mine the exact status of the percentage of loss through 
waste that is carted away from their plants. As a rule 
they can tell you exactly what is the total percentage of 
loss; but as to exactly where and why it is being made 
and who are making it in the mills, few could give as 
intelligent account as it seems reasonable to expect from 
those in charge. 

Some first-class mills maintain what is called a "Book 
of Averages.'' From this book they can relate not only 
the total production, pounds per spindle, and cost, but 
in addition can relate percentage of loss per spindle, 
amount spooled, production per spooler-spindle, num- 
ber of hands, cost per hand, cost per pound until the 
matter of details could be carried on almost to infinity. 

This is very well in a way, but why not enter into de- 
tails in regard to the waste department. If it is a good 
argument to have good book-keeping to look after goods 
on which only a small profit per pound is gained, it is all 



HOW TO REDUCE WASTE AND BAD WORK. 85 

the more important to have detailed accounts to keep 
track of goods which cost, in the raw state, just as much 
as that from which the perfect goods are made, but on 
which there is not only no profit per pound, but the raw 
material itself practically wiped out in waste materials. 

There is an additional loss to be charged to the waste 
that must not be lost sight of, and that is the cost per 
pound for carrying it up to the process of manufacture 
where it was wasted. 

Therefore the loss on waste products is of three kinds, 
viz : Purchased price, cost of manufacturing up to a cer- 
tain process ; loss of manufacturing profit on non-sale of 
same as cloth. 

Of course from this triple loss must be deducted the 
average price received for same when sold as waste. So 
that the problem resolves itself into an example some- 
what like this supposed case, taking 100 pounds of waste 
to illustrate the point : 

100 pounds cost, per lb., in the raw state @ 12c. .|12.00 
Average cost of carrying the different prepara- 
tions up to the process where it was wasted @ 

1.34c 1.34 

Loss of manufacturing on the same @ 2c 2.00 

Total 115.34 

To illustrate further, we will suppose that of the 100 
pounds of waste 50 per cent drops out as waste in the 
picker room, 25 per cent in the carding department, 15 
per cent in the spinning department, and the remaining 
10 per cent in the process of weaving and finishing, and 
that the cost per pound of each process is : opening de- 
partment, |c. ; carding department, Ic. ; spinning de- 
partment, IJc, and weaving and finishing, 2c. The ex- 
ample would be: 



86 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



WASTE DEPARTMENT COST. 



Waste. 


Picker. 


Carding. 
@lc. 


Spinning. 
@ hV c. 


Weaving 

Finishing 

@2c. 


Total. 


50 lbs. 


.125 
.06 
.04 
.025 








125 


24 lbs. 


24 
16 
10 






30 


16 lbs. 


24 
15 




44 


10 lbs. 


20 


.475 


100 lbs. 


.25 


50 


39 


20 


1.34 



Average cost per lb. @ 1. 34 c. 



If the average price of the waste as sold amounts to 
l^c. per pound, deducting |1.50 from the total loss, 
$15.34, leaves a net loss of f 13.84. But the expert who 
makes up the cost exclaims : 

This loss is already taken into consideration and in- 
cluded by the increased cost of manufacturing incident 
to the waste loss. 

But, my good fellow, that is not the point at issue. 
The cost is made up by adding the per cent lost, which 
may be all the way from 15 to 20 per cent gross and cor- 
rected at stock taking time by the net loss. This is very 
well ; but the points at issue in this article are not how 
to make up costs, but how to distribute the percentage 
of loss caused by shrinkage in wastes. 

In order to accomplish this properly it is necessary to 
have a more liberal arrangement of the waste house, and 
with the waste-house custodian. The man in charge of 
the waste house should be able to keep an account of all 
wastes and make up an intelligent report of same daily 
or weekly. His waste house should be roomy, so that 
he can turn around in it. It should be well lighted, con- 
veniently located and arranged. There should be some 
table room within same, so that the waste man need not 
lie on the floor to sort over his wastes. This place 
should be kept warm in cold weather, enabling him to 
attend to his business instead of spending most of his 



HOW TO REDUCE WASTE AND BAD WORK. 87 

time in the boiler room trying to thaw out. He should 
have a desk and a book for each department of the mill. 
Also be given whatever assistance he needs to carry on 
his department on business principles. All w^aste that 
is of no further use to the mill should, after having been 
w^eighed, be sent to the waste house, where same will be 
re- weighed as a check on the department from whence it 
was sent. All broken bobbins, spools, shuttles, cans and 
worn-out loom reeds and harnesses should pass through 
the waste house before being destroyed. All these 
should be taken into account, so that wear and tear of 
such parts can be observed and undue waste checked. 

In the mill each department should systematize its 
waste records in such a manner that the waste made can 
be traced directly to the hands who made it. This point 
is not difficult, and obvious. 

The bad work in a cotton mill should be looked out for 
and recorded in the same manner. Of course the sec- 
onds in cloth are most always tabulated in any mill. But 
the badly filled bobbins, spools, beams, cops, all should 
be booked and averaged up against the department, and 
so far as possible against the help who made them. As 
the weaving department is always the rendezvous of 
much badly wound filling, bobbins of cops, more or less, 
the proper way to handle this is to appoint a responsible 
person to go through the weaving department once per 
day and gather all the badly-wound filling pieces and 
make a record of same. At the end of a month or quar- 
ter average the record per week and per day and pass it 
to the superintendent's office, and hand duplicates of this 
and the daily reports to the departmental overseers, to- 
gether with the bad work. This system will have greater 
influence to reduce bad work to a minimum than any- 
thing else. 



88 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XI. 
HOW TO SAVE POWER. 

The vast power required to propel the machinery in 
our textile mills and the heavy cost attending same, ren- 
ders it imperative that every economy be exercised to 
make a horse power go as far as possible. 

When it is reasoned that for every 33,000 pounds or 
its equivalent caused by friction, there must be one me- 
chanical horse power to raise same one foot per minute, 
and that under ordinary circumstances a horse power, 
when raised by steam costs on an average |25 or more 
per year to maintain, it is highly important to lay aside 
every weight and barrier that needlessly increases the 
load. An organization that does not follow up this mat- 
ter of power closely may be paying from 10 to 25 per 
cent more than is actually required to operate the plant 
under more favorable conditions. As a textile plant is 
largely made up of spindles and so many small bearings, 
unless special care is taken to keep all these bearings 
clean and lubricated with proper oil, and to see that the 
tension of bands is not too much, there will be much 
more power consumed than is actually required. 

If any one unfamiliar with this subject doubts the 
gravity of this statement, let him refer to page 69 of the 
Draper Company's "Textile Texts," and study the val- 
uable tests given, which were actually made in the mills, 
and which prove conclusively that when a cylinder is 
cramped bands have too much tension; the oil is of 
cheap, low gravity ; dirt and sediment allowed to remain 
in bearings ; poor bobbins ; too heavy travelers ; rings not 
concentric with spindles; top rolls improperly cleaned, 
oiled, or too heavily weighted. All these things together 



HOW TO SAVE POWER. 89 

can make a difference of from 80 spindles to 44 spindles 
driven per horse power. It is, therefore, essential to 
have these things right, if a firm desires to get along 
with a minimum of power. The tension of all belts, 
large and small, if too tight, will increase friction and 
consume more power. 

Another matter which increases power throughout a 
plant is to have the shafting and machinery out of line 
and unlevel. In a new mill, especially after having run 
a few months, things will have settled more or less, and 
all machinery- and shafting should be gone over again 
and differences readjusted. At the end of one year from 
second adjustment make another correction. Then every 
three years thereafter. This keeps the plant in true Ivel 
and alignment and more than pa^s for itself in saving 
the coal pile. 

A weekly indication of the engines should be the rule. 
This will shoAV whatever variations that may arise from 
time to time, and the cause can be looked up and cor- 
rected. 

The matter of cleanliness in regard to the shafting 
and pulleys is another factor which enters into the prob- 
lem. It is a well-known fact that a pulley with clean 
spokes can speed through the air with less resistance 
than one w^hich is filled with mattings of flyings and 
dust. 

The matter of gearing and fitting when changing gears 
or making repairs is another source of losing power. If 
gears are set to deeply in general it will take a great deal 
more power to drive them, to say nothing of the undue 
wear and tear. If fittings are made too tight when re- 
pairing parts that turn within parts, such slow^ly turn- 
ing journals that do not give warning by heating, a frac- 
tion of waste power can be traced to this abuse. 

With water power, where the draught tube system is 



90 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

SO extensively used as it is to-day, there is much loss of 
power by air leakages into the water wheel casings. One 
of these instances came to light not long since, where 
about twent}^ horse power had been going to waste for 
several months, and this twenty horse power had to be 
made up by running the engine, there being a supposed 
insufficient water power supply. 

Another wasteful source is when the draught tube ex- 
tends or plunges into the water too deeply and not allow- 
ing the water to disperse. This was another instance 
discovered of where the engine had to run to make up the 
difference. The bottom of the tube was cut off, and 
then there was power enough not only to run the plant, 
as equipped, but there was a surplus of power to run 
some new machinery which was installed. 

It pays, then, gentlemen of the fibre, to look well after 
the power department of a textile mill. 

Another matter of vast importance, which should not 
be overlooked under this study, is the matter of belting 
and transmission rope. The man of the moment must 
not be merely a manufacturer, but he must know how to 
take care of belting if he would achieve the most saving 
of power in connection with a vast plant. A tight belt 
for example is like burning a candle at both ends at 
once and worse. It strains not only the belting : it also 
strains the shafting, bearings; consumes more oil, more 
power, and consumes vastly more labor to keep up re- 
pairs. A strained belt soon grows thin, narrow and too 
weak to convey power, hence slipping and causing great 
loss in production and also causing poor work in some 
of the production that is supposed to be good. Fortu- 
nately there is a remedy for this catalogue of evils. The 
writer has had a thoroughly successful experience with 
the latest and most scientific method of treating belt- 
ing. What should be used is a belt filler, and the most 



HOW TO SAVE POWER. 91 

reliable preparation is cling surface." It makes poor 
belting good, and makes good belting better. It fills 
the belt, giving the face of a belt perfect contact. It 
does not cake; kills electricity entirely, and enables a 
belt to do its work while very slack. These points are 
not exaggerated in the least. The "cling surface" is not 
a sticky substance. It is a belt filler, and must be ap- 
plied while hot from the boiling pot. Just a little on the 
face of a belt while at slow speed. When the mill is 
stopped paint the outside of the belts same as you would 
the wall of a house. Try this and you will have no fur- 
ther trouble with your belts. It is a belt preservative 
and not a belt destroyer. No more troubles in starting 
machinery on damp mornings. No more counter belts 
running off and pulling counter shafting down. Great 
saving of power, oils labor, belting machinery. "Cling 
Surface" will do all of this and more. The following 
contribution from the "Cling Surface" company is gladly 
given space. 



92 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



XII. 
THE NEW BELT MANAGEMENT WITH CLIN6-SURFACE. 

(Contributed by the Cling-Surface Co. ) 

The rule has always been that "the efficiency of a belt 
depends directly upon the initial tension put upon the 
belt.'' 

This has necessitated tight belts and ropes to prevent 
slip, tension of 45 pounds per inch of width on single, 
65-70 pounds on double belts. This tension is the cause 
of hot bearings, strained shafting, broken or short lived 
belts, many repairs and high friction load. 

The new "tentionless" or "Cling-Surface" method 
eliminates the evils of the old. 

Cling-Surface is a preservative filler and food for belts 
and ropes and a means to a new method of belt manage- 
ment. It is not a sticky belt dressing. Slowly fed to 
belts or rope, it penetrates into the belt or rope, leaving 
the surface clean, making and keeping the fabric pliable, 
elastic, healthy and water-proof all through, and entirely 
eliminating slipping. \ 

With a pliable, vigorous belt no slipping, tension be- 
comes not only needless but assumes the true aspect of a 
wasteful source of expense and repairs and a non-pro- 
ductive consumer of power. Belt tension comprises a 
large part of the friction load of a mill. Cling-Surface 
permits the removal of this daily source of expense. 

It then not only becomes possible, but it has been ac- 
complished in many mills, north and south, to run every 
belt and rope easy or slack, relieve the belts, bearings, 
shafting and engine of this excessive dead load of ten- 
sion — friction — have cool bearings, long-lived pliable 
belts, no slipping, positive, even speed of machines, no 



THE NEW BELT MANAGEMENT. 93 

static electricity, save fuel, time and trouble and trans- 
mit more power because the relief of tension and in- 
creased arc or pulley contact, on such belts as permit 
it, ensure a higher percentage of power delivery. All 
belts can be relieved of tension and run easy. Many 
can run slack to advantage. All should be run as slack 
as possible. 

This subject is not one of mere preparation for belts, 
but its results make it an engineering proposition of 
great importance and daily value in economy of mill 
operation. 



94 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XIII. 
AN ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR THE POWER OF PLANT,* 

THE BOILER DEPARTMENT. 

There are hundreds of plants where no trouble is taken 
to ascertain the economic efficiency, and it is with such 
plants especially that a careful accounting of their man- 
agement might reveal intolerable waste of fuel which 
could not be located otherwise. 

All grades of coal have certain heating values, each of 
which can be specially ascertained. One pound of pure 
carbon is capable of yielding 14,500 British thermal units, 
and if all this heat could be utilized in a boiler it would 
evaporate 15 pounds of water from 212 degrees at at- 
mospheric pressure. 

The quality and character of the leading varieties 
of coal vary considerably. There is even a wide range 
of variation in one good grade of coal. It requires as 
good judgment to select a good and suitable grade of 
fuel as it does to select the raw material to be manu- 
factured. As different grades require suitable furnaces 
and grates, it is highly important that these are adapted 
to the grade selected. Before determining what grade 
to select, it is best to ascertain and study the chemical 
analyses of the leading types as given by coal dealers; 
also learn, if possible, what evaporative efficiency is 
being accomplished by a few successful corporations 
using them. Having selected the grade and determined 
its composition, it is well to follow up this by having 
samples analyzed from time to time by independent 
laboratories and also carry on regular tests at the place 
of consumption. The local tests will be a proof check 

* Published in " Power," April, 1905. 



ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR POWER PLANT. 95 

on previously given advice. By comparing these tests, 
and carefully tabulating these regular and special analy- 
ses, it will serve to keep the coal much nearer to the 
grade ordered. 

The laboratory tests will show the component parts 
in detail complete, and which may vary somewhat as 
follows : 

COAL ANALYSES. 

Carbon 50 to 80 per cent. 

Hydrogen 4 to 5 per cent. 

Oxogen 3 to 11 per cent. 

Nitrogen 1 to 15 percent. 

Sulfur 1 to 3 per cent. 

Ashe and clinker 5 to 13 per cent. 

Moisture 1 to 12 per cent. 

The consumer's analysis, altho substantially the same, 
will not show the absolute details, but comes under the 
head of an approximate analysis. Keduced to its sim- 
plest terms, it will show at least four parts, as follows : 

Fixed carbon. Volatile matter, 

Clinker and ash, Moisture. 

A further analysis of the ash and clinker may show 
varying proportions of 

Silica, Magnesia, 

Alumina, Combustible material. 

Oxide of iron, Undetermined parts. 
Carbonate of lime, 

It is as important to tabulate and follow up a record 
of the ash analyses as the record of the combustible ma- 
terial. There are several important reasons for this. 
The record will show whether any combustible material 
is being thrown out. Loss from this cause might be 
as much as 50 per cent of the ash. It is well known 
that some grades of coal having perhaps 7 per cent of 
ash will give better results than others having much 
less. 



96 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



These analyses combined will show the general charac 
ter of the coal selected. They should be compiled into 
permanent form for official record, and so arranged that 

COAL RECEIVER'S REPORT. 

Date received 

N ame of shi pper 

Name of coal 

N umber of car 

Style of car 

Capacity of car 

Condition of car 

Weight of coal billed 

Number of freight bill 

Dray age loads 



Our weights : 


Gross. 


Tare. 


Net. 








lbs. 








lbs. 








lbs. 










Totals 






lbs. 











Gain Lbs. 

Lost Lbs. 

Caution — Every item must be entered as called for. 

Form No. 1. 

future data can be entered. Thus these sheets can be 
extended over any period and taken up at any time to 
average results. These forms are arranged with vertical 
columns headed with the constituents of the coal, so that 
any analysis of a certain data may be readily entered. 

It is also desirable to have coal receiver's cards printed 
as shown by form No. 1, herewith. It often occurs that 
shortage of coal received cannot be traced for want of 
a reliable record, such as might have been kept by the 
coal receiver if required to fill out the card. 

Having the different analytical reports is of great 
value in determining what may be reasonably expected 



ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR POWER PLANT. 97 

from the boiler-room. The time and expense put into 
these tests and the accounting for them is very small 
when the ultimate results are taken into consideration. 

The most important factor of the steam plant is the 
chief engineer in charge. 

Having the best of help, good coal, and a first-class 
plant, a careful accounting of the service and operations 
will show what is being accomplished. 

While the accompanying reports appear complicated, 
there is nothing difficult about them to folloAV up. It 
is easy to keep account of the coal consumed. The mat- 
ter of taking and recording the pressures, temperatures, 
meter records, etc., is only a matter of routine readings. 
The data complete to be entered as called for on the 
boiler-room report is shown in form No. 2. 

At the close of each week the boiler-room record is 
turned into the office to be entered upon the official 
record sheet of the boiler performance shown by form 
No. 3. This report can be taken up and averaged month- 
ly or quarterly, as desired, and constitutes a permanent 
record showing at a glance the progressive service of 
the man in charge. 

Having urged close economy upon the engineer and 
his force, it is only fair that they should know how the 
results of their efforts appear on paper, and it is best to 
go over these records with them. If the record is meri- 
torious, it will pay to recognize it substantially as it 
deserves. If the record is poor, point out the difficulties 
and aid in removing the barriers. A special test or 
series of special tests by an expert may instruct the 
local force and prove what can be done. These special 
tests may cover ten hours more or less, and in addition 
to data shown on regular reports, all dimensions and 
local conditions would be minutely observed and re- 
corded with the result. Due allowances and corrections 

would be made for abnormal conditions. 
T 



98 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



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ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR POWER PLANT. 99 

THE TRANSMISSION DEPARTMENT. 

Having devoted sufficient attention to the boiler de- 
partment to insure the highest reasonable efficiency, it is 
of the next importance to transmit the steam energy 
into motive power with a corresponding high efficiency. 

Since the efficiency of an engine is so low, it is of 
great importance to reduce every item of waste to its 
lowest terms. Only the best grades of engine and cylin- 
der oils should be employed. All drippings should be 
gathered and filtered and whatever value retained from 
this be applied where it can be re-used to best advantage. 
The matter of quality applies with the same force to all 
supplies. There is no gain in purchasing inferior 
grades of packing, gaskets, belting, etc. 

Skilled labor represents a vast deal more than is often 
taken into consideration. It represents a minimum cost 
for repairs, and a correspondingly^ small per cent 
per year for the depreciation of the entire plant. 
Skilled labor lengthens the life of the plant. As all 
these charges such as depreciation, taxes, insurance and 
interest, enter into the cost of obtaining a horse-power, 
the same must be added to the labor and fuel cost before 
the total cost of securing a horse-power can be learned. 
It has been learned by experience that a well-managed 
power plant averaging 1,000 horse-power can be operated 
for a little less than |25 per horse-poAver per year. This, 
however, is conservatively low. The general costs of 
operating from 100 horse-power at |64 to 2,500 horse- 
power at f 21 per horse-power per year would show an 
average of over $30 per year. Here, as at the beginning 
of operations in the boiler-room, the only proper way to 
keep the costs low, and the efficiency high, is to watch, 
work, and have an accurate testing and accounting sys- 
tem. To have regular tests and a reliable accounting 
system of all the operations, is to locate these discrep- 
ancies. Of course, where much low-pressure steam is re- 

LOfr 



100 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



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* 



ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR POWER PLANT. 101 

quired for dyeing and bleaching purposes, the ordinary 
cost per horse-power can be considerably reduced. 

Another matter of economy which should be borne in 
mind is that it does not pay to overload an engine. A 
special test or series of special tests will determine at 
what economy the plant may be operated. The value of 
this is obvious. It establishes the local working basis, 
and fixes a unit upon which to compare the weekly 
operations, thus giving the engineering force to under- 
stand that the plant is up to a certain point of excel- 
lence, and that this record should be maintained. To 
keep in touch with this high record, it is necessary to 
indicate the engines once per week at least. Engineers 
who follow this rule, and have all in constant readiness, 
find this an easy routine task. They become so quickly 
accustomed to figuring out their diagram cards that lit- 
tle time is thus occupied. 

The chief engineer in charge will keep a record of all 
the power statements together with such data as re- 
quired to form an intelligent understanding as to how 
to distribute the costs. If part of the power 
is derived from water-wheels, it will be neces- 
sary to account for the water gages and the time 
run by the mill, also the time run by water. If there is 
any electric transmission of power it must be either de- 
rived from water or steam power ; or if derived from the 
two combined, the cost of transforming can be based on 
the proportionate initial power contributed by water 
and that through steam. To get at the exact final cost of 
the power delivered by electrical transmission is easily 
accounted for. If obtained from water power, the cost 
equals the cost of water power plus the loss in convert- 
ing. If derived from steam, the cost will equal that of 
steam power plus the loss in transforming. To illustrate 
further : If the cost of water power is |10 per year per 



102 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



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ACCOUNTING SYSTEM FOR POWER PLANT. 103 

horse-power, and the water-wheels develop 400 horse- 
power, and the electric current delivers only 360 horse- 
power, the loss is 10 per cent, and must be added to the 
cost of maintaining the water power, which increases 
it to |11 per horse-power per year. The same illustra- 
tion holds good if delivered from steam. 

In baking up the cost sheet, then, it is necessary to 
keep the items in their proper place, and reduce each 
to money values. The cost per horse-power complete 
must include the items, as shown by the accompanying 
rough estimate of year's record. 

The figures and records of the chief engineer are turned 
into the administrative office, where the same will be 
passed upon, corrections made and verified, and then 
entered upon the official record sheet for further inspec- 
tion and permanent file, as shown by the accompanying 
form No. 4. This style of power statement shows at a 
glance how the total cost of the steam plant is distrib- 
uted. The president or treasurer of a company whose 
time is too limited to enter into details, can in an instant 
study the final figures. If he is posted in what consti- 
tutes a high-grade efficiency, and he finds the total re- 
sults right, he will never dabble with details. But if 
the cost is excessive, he can find all the details he desires. 
He need not look long before the leaky spot is located. 

COST OF 1,000 HORSE-POWER. 

Coal $12.00 

Labor 2.50 

Oil 05 

Supplies 25 

Repairs 2.00 

Sinking fund for depreciation (5 per cent.) 3.50 

Interest, taxes and insurance (7 per cent.) 6.00 

Total cost per horse-power per year |26.30 

But the superintendent who is a magazine of detail 
within himself can consume details faster than it takes 
to tell it. 



104 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

A plant that is operated on a scale of good manage- 
ment can attain the highest value of its fuel cost. And 
the writer feels safe in asserting that such a plant may 
create high-rate records. There is great opportunity for 
improvement in this line in many plants. It is the wide- 
awake, progressive man who may win some of these 
laurels for himself and the world at large. No method 
can assist that aspiring man so much as a method of ac- 
counting which reveals and reflects the methematical 
side of his work, and he must be competent to read 
these records at sight and understand their significance. 
The days of the chalk-mark man have gone by. He need 
not go to school, but he must bring the school to him- 
self, and prepare to bring into his work the most modern 
scientific principles. 



HOW TO MAINTAIN PRODUCTION. 105 

XIV. 
HOW TO MAINTAIN PRODUCTION. 

Production is the magic word which hangs the fate of 
most textile workers. It does not matter how good a 
person is, what excellent quality of goods made, how 
cheaply produced, if the production is not up to where 
it should be, after making all due allowances, there is 
"trouble in the camp,'' and some one must work it up 
or step out to let the other fellow try his hand. Men 
who are stalwart in strength, men who have bravely 
stood defeat in other lines, turn pale when told that 
the production is not up to the standard in quantity. 
The secret of it all lies in the fact that the men who turn 
pale do not know how to work up their production. To 
tide those people over, who are in trouble on this ques- 
tion, is the aim of the writer. 

In the first place, when approached on the question 
of short production do not become excited. Be calm. 
Take your medicine bravely. Find out in the most 
agreeable manner just what is expected. Then, set about 
taking complete account of speeds of the different ma- 
chines, and figure just what the possible production is. 
Go back several weeks to see what previous men secured 
for production under like conditions. Now make a list 
like this : 

Production wanted. 
Production at present. 
Production possible. 
Production previously obtained. 

Also put down labor costs opposite each item. This 
comparison will reveal some very interesting problems. 
The production man will realize just where he stands 



lOG THE MAXxVGEMEXT OF COTTON MILLS. 

in relation to the other three propositions. He may 
also find that his present record is very much in his 
favor. The office men in their supreme ambition, often 
overrate the possible production, and this particular 
instance may prove to be no exception to this rule. He 
may find that his present production is nearly up to the 
mark, and much more than the other fellow was getting; 
also that the present cost is lower. Hence the discovery 
is made that more than one-half of the battle is fought 
on paper. But do not get hot headed. Be calm again 
and all the time. Take these nice results to the man 
with the high collar, and have as pleasant conference 
with him as possible. Make him feel that you are as 
anxious to secure the high mark as he is, also seek his 
advice as to the best means to secure this coveted end; 
valuable aid may be given. This places some responsi- 
bility upon the higher power and relieves the strain con- 
siderably. 

Another matter which should enter into consideration 
by all concerned is the solemn fact that if the production 
is down it cannot be worked up so fast as commonly 
supposed, especially if a new man or men are in charge, 
or the plant is a new one. It takes several months at 
the least to overcome old conditions and bring every- 
thing into complete sympathy with the new regime. 
Keep a steady j)ull, strengthen one weak place at a time ; 
get men on each section that will pull steadily Avitli you. 
Show them their weekly productions. Put them upon 
their honor and mettle. Keep every spindle operative, 
and every loom belt on the tight pulley. On Saturday 
afternoons have all the belts looked over and re-splice 
all that are liable to break before the following week. 
Keep ahead of time must be the everlasting watch-word 
of the hour. Foresee every contingency that is possible 
and have a remedy ready to cure the evils that might 



HOW TO MAINTAIN PRODUCTION. 107 

arise. When taken unawares by unforseen trouble be 
resourceful, making the best of every difficulty. 

WEAVE ROOM PRODUCTION.* 

A great deal has been written upon the effect of bad 
yarn on the production of a w^eave room, and we shall 
exclude that phase of the subject from this paper, assum- 
ing that the yarn, warps and filling are all right, that 
the mill is running under average conditions, but that 
the production is considerably below par. Such a case 
requires close study. Good yarn and plenty of help 
are not all the requisites of success; there should be 
better management in the weaving department. In the 
office there is nothing that arouses suspicion sooner, nor 
is any deficiency felt more keenly than a drop in the 
production of the weave room. The cloth is the life of 
the plant. A shortage proves that something is wrong. 

Every item of production on the cloth board should 
be looked over. A record should be kept so that not 
only the work of each hand, but the work of each loom 
can be traced. All looms showing a full percentage 
of production are crossed off the list, and for those show- 
ing a shortage a special record should be kept. See if 
these looms are up to speed. It frequently happens that 
a belt is slipping at the loom, or a counter belt may be 
slipping. Sometimes loss in production is caused by a 
pulley being slightly over or under size. Locate indi- 
vidual deficiencies in the hands. Sometimes a few poor 
weavers replaced or shown how to do their work will 
increase production quite materially. Good weavers 
sometimes get indifferent, with the result that the pro- 
duction is lowered. These need to be toned up. Loom 
fixers, too, play an important part in the production of 
a weave room. Indifference on their part may cause 
serious loss. 

*Publlslied in "Textile World Record," September, 1905. 



108 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

In checking up the production of a weave room it is 
best to put the responsibility into four groups: First, 
the product of each loom; second, the product of each 
weaver; third, the product of a section as cared for by 
a fixer ; fourth, the supervisors in each weave room. In 
this way every person will feel a personal responsibility 
in the production. It is a good plan to post the names 
of the weavers that excel, giving their percentages and 
holding up their record as a model. Do the same thing 
in regard to the loom fixers and their sections. It places 
merit at a premium. Record breakers could also be 
substantially rewarded by an extra allowance per week. 
This is also an incentive to keep up the record. Other 
elements which affect the production are the air, light, 
temperature and humidity. 



THE OPERATIVE VALUE OF SPINDLES. 109 

XV. 
THE OPERATIVE VALUE OF SPINDLES.* 

The operative value of spindles is not a difficult prob- 
lem to solve, yet the frequency with which spindles are 
stopped here and there on the slubbers, speeders, spin- 
ning frames and mules lead to the conclusion that there 
are scores of people who do not realize the full value of 
a productive spindle. Of course the productive value of 
spindles has a wide range of variation. It varies with 
the quality and number of the yarn spun, the speed and 
style of the spindles, the supervising facilities, and fin- 
ally with the margin of profit at which the product is 
sold. 

Spindles are only means to an end. They convert rov- 
ing into yarn in just the proportion the}' are kept opera- 
tive. Idle spindles are Avorse than non-production, for 
they bring about a two-fold loss, loss from retarded pro- 
duction upon which a profit cannot be made, also a cor- 
responding loss in the increased cost of production ob- 
tained from the remaining productive spindles. 

To illustrate this, take a plant of 10,000 spindles 
Avhich, when fully operative, produce 10,000 pounds of 
yarn ; let us assume that for several reasons 200 spindles 
are idle all the week. The loss of production will be 
200 pounds of yarn. If the product of this mill is sold 
at a profit of two cents a pound, the unearned profit 
would be (200 X 02) |4.00. If the pay roll of the spin- 
ning department is |200 per week when all the spindles 
are running the cost per pound for spinning will be 
(1200-^10,000) 2 cents, but if there are 200 non-pro- 
ducing spindles the production will be only 9,800 pounds. 

* Published In " Textile World Record, ' March, 1905. 



110 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

The pay roll being the same, the cost of this production 
is increased to (|200-^ 9,800) 2.04 cents per pound 
making an additional loss of .04 cents per pound, or 
about |4, which when added to the other |4 mentioned 
as profit which would have been earned, makes a total 
difference of |8.00. 

The mill, with all the spindles running, could have 
earned |8.00 more profit than when 200 spindles were 
idle and the help paid to keep them running. Carrying 
this rate along for a year we have (52 X $8) |416, a 
total deficiency of about |2 per idle spindle for the year. 

Another illustration: If a plant of 10,000 spindles 
has a capital stock of |200,000 and the average produc- 
tion per spindle is one pound per week, with the product 
selling at a profit of 2 cents per pound, the plant will 
have a profit of about 5 per cent on its captial, and the 
true operative value or earning power per spindle will 
be |1 for the year. But if for any reason 200 spindles 
fail to produce anything for the year there will be 4 per 
cent less profit, or 1.5 of 1 per cent less profit on the en- 
tire capital stock. 

In view of these facts it is clear that idle spindles are 
not wanted in any mill. The profit of the plant must be 
derived from the product of the spindles. Idle spindles 
on spinning frames for which help are being paid to keep 
operative are not like spindles which are not in the mill, 
because nothing is paid out to keep spindles idle that are 
not owned by the company. 

There are numerous causes for idle spindles, such as 
broken bands, dry bolsters, waiting to be doffed, break- 
ages in machines and plant, waiting for any kind of sup- 
plies, such as bands, roving, rolls, stirrups, guides, oil, 
bobbins, belting, rings, travelers, waiting for power, stop- 
ped to be oiled, back ends neglected by spinners, etc. To 
show how fast this counts up, take a day's record for an 



THE OPEILVTIVE VALUE OF SPINDLES. Ill 

example: Total running time for 10,000 spindles for 
one day is ten hours. Suppose that one spinning frame 
of 200 spindles is stopped for two hours for a broken 
gear because the gear had to be made before the frame 
could be started. This is equivalent to having 40 
spindles stopped ten hours. OAving to the inefficient 
band bo}- there were on an average 25 spindles stopped 
for ten hours. The doffers were too slow and caused 
two frames of 200 spindles each to be stopped two hours 
or 80 for ten hours. Unattended back ends stopped 10 
spindles all day. Spinners stopped frames needlessly, 
which equaled 50 spindles stopped ten hours, making a 
total of 200 spindles stopped all day. If this is re- 
peated every day the results at the end of a week are as 
already outlined. 

The remedy for preventing this loss is to impress upon 
the help the value of keeping all spindles on an earning 
basis. Keep the frames doffed, never have two frames 
stopped to be doffed at one time. Have plenty of sup- 
plies on hand. Keep the bands tied on. The spindle is 
the life of the plant. 



112 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XVI. 
ECONOMY IN THE USE OF SUPPLIES. 

RING TRAVELERS. 

In these days of excessively close competition, and 
when the steam hammer of the directors would fall upon 
extravagance of every nature, why not look up the mat- 
ter of ring travelers? No item of supplies enters more 
freely into the textile mill than that of ring travelers, 
and no supplies are so wasted, and so little done to pre- 
vent it. If it is prudent to practice economy in some 
respects surelj^ it is prudent to do so in all others. And 
yet how many of our mill managers protest at the loss 
of ten cents here and there and are blind to the heavier 
losses hither and thither. How many managers are there 
who know positively just how many travelers they re- 
quire to keep their mills in order for a year or any given 
time? But, how are you going to find out? will say 
some of the gentlemen of the easy chairs. The conser- 
vative manager who keeps figures and averages before 
him can easily answer this question. Let any manager 
who would like to post himself, look up his traveler 
bills for one year, and many a one of them will find that 
he buys travelers enough to change them in his mill from 
once every day to once every week. Of course, a mill 
making several kinds of yarns and changing numbers 
a great deal, will consume much more ring travelers, than 
a straight goods mill, and coarse goods mills need to use 
much more than fine goods mills. On numbers below 
20s (cotton yarns) and running proper speeds the travel- 
ers should be changed once in three or four weeks. 
This means to remove the old travelers and put on a new 
lot of the same numbers. This keeps the work running 



ECONOMY IN THE USE OF SUPPLIES. 113 

well and more than pays for the time taken to change 
and cost of new travelers. The squad of hands that 
change travelers, as a rule, are very wasteful. There 
should be a person of good judgment to follow each squad 
and serve them with travelers. Young boys and even 
some men care little or nothing about the cost of trav- 
elers or anything else. If allowed to help themselves, 
they drop them on the floor and frequently overturn a 
whole box on the floor. Or they take too many in their 
hands at one time and as they proceed to change from 
ring to ring the travelers drop between their Angers and 
are lost; as it is impracticable to pick them off from 
the floor one at a time. The only economical way to 
change travelers is to have a trusted man serve each boy 
and give out only small portions at one time. 

Another place where a great waste of these goods oc- 
curs is at the supply pans fastened to spinning frames. 
As a rule too many travelers are put into these places. 
The result is, that when spinners need a traveler they 
find an entangled mass of travelers, and in securing one, 
two dozen or so are dropped into nowhere in particular, 
never to be found useful again. This can be overcome 
by simply putting only a few travelers in the bottom 
of each pan : care being taken to shake them out well 
so that a single one can be easily secured by any thought- 
less spinner. Is the cure worth the precaution, is asked? 
If from |50 to |500 per year is worth saving in the pro- 
portionate plant, then, the disease is worth the cure. 

LUBRICATION. 

Oilino- machinerv is a matter that does not receive 
the attention it should in many textile mills. This is 
evidenced by the fact that most any mill manager would 
frankly admit that his oil bills could be scaled down 
considerably if only the proper amounts of oil were used 
8 



lltt THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

in tlieir respective places. Any man competent to judge 
can easily ascertain for himself about how much oil and 
lubricating compounds is required to keep his plant in 
good running order for a given period, and let him com- 
pare this with the amounts used, and he may find that 
from 10 to 50 per cent more is consumed than is actually 
needed. 

There are two ways in which this can be ascertained, 
and it is well to utilize both methods so that one way 
can be a check or proof of the other. 

One method is to go through the plant and take a 
list of all bearings and classify them under their proper 
headings, stating what oils or greases are to be used at 
each heading. Now add each column and multipl}- each 
total by the minimum portions allowed each group and 
the result will not vary very much from what should 
be used altogether. The other way is to organize the 
oilers. Have as few oilers as possible, and be sure that 
they are as reliable as can be secured and men who will 
take a deep interest in obtaining close and correct re- 
sults. Put a resolute man in charge of the oil reposi- 
tory. Have all the different oils and compounds prop- 
erly placarded and for what purpose they must be 
used. 

All lubricants used should be dealt out by this man 
personally and recorded in a book and charged against 
each person served. Following the organization fur- 
ther, put a man in charge of the shafting and heavy 
bearings, letting him have what helpers he needs. An- 
other man should be placed at the head of the persons 
who oil the spinning spindles and carry the system all 
through until the organization is completed, somewhat 
as follows: 



ECONOMY IN THE USE OF SUPPLIES. 115 



Department. 


Responsible Head. 


Oil room 




Engines 




Shafting and water wheels 




Picker room 




Card 




Spinning spindles 




Spinning room — general oiling... 




Weave room, etc 









Each head should be carefully instructed, so that he 
knows just what oil to use and keep account of all he 
uses and report quantities used every day at the office. 
Keep up this system for six months and then compare 
with old methods and the system will become a per- 
manent organization by virtue of its great economy over 
the old way. 

The trouble with the oiling under present go-as-you- 
please, nobody cares system is that a great deal more 
oil is used than is really needed to prevent undue fric- 
tion. It is surprising what a small amount of oil a bear- 
ing requires when the right oil is used and same is put 
where it belongs. This can be proved by the fact that 
many bearings running to-day have their oil holes so 
plugged with waste and dirt that, of the daily splash 
of oil spilled somewhere near the right spot, only one 
per cent ever reaches the bearing. A heavy per cent 
of oil is spilled onto the floor in every mill. The wrong 
oil is frequently used. If too heavy oil is used it clogs 
the bearings. If too light oil is used the most of it 
runs out without lubricating. Often oils are used where 
a good grade of grease would answer much better and 
go further than oil. 

Under the other extreme it often happens that an in- 
competent oiler does not oil all places required, or puts 
on sufficient oil. Sometimes his poor oiling goes on 



116 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

indefinitely until there is a wholesale wearing out of 
the machinery. This not only entails expense to replace 
worn out parts but loss of production while machines 
are being repaired, making double loss to the company. 

The reader of this article must not construe same to 
mean that it requires more help and complicated atten- 
tion to oil a plant properly, as indicated. There is no 
doubt that the oiling can be done much more efficiently; 
pass through less and better paid hands; and yet the 
labor cost be less. The saving in lubricants consumed, 
and wear and tear prevented are the great economical 
factors to be considered in overhauling the oiling sys- 
tem of the present. 

In these days of close competition no system of econo- 
my is too good to enforce. The hardest duties are easy 
to perform when taken hold of with a determination. 
If a superintendent can save his company from one to 
ten dollars per day by establishing a more perfect sys- 
tem of oiling he should do so at once. Economy of this 
kind injures nobody, adds to the wealth of the world and 
makes better times for all mankind. 

DOLLARS AND SENSE. 

While the march of events has led us to practice 
closer economy than has ever been known in the textile 
industry, there is another question which in its place, 
should receive an airing. 

To what extent help take supplies from some of our 
mills is not generally known. Yet, that it is done to a 
certain extent is well known. The kind of taking which 
is referred to here does not come under the head of steal- 
ing in the legal sense of the term. But what is referred 
to is the countless ways in which a certain class of help 
feel that it is a privilege to help themselves. And it is 
in this way tliat the matter leads up to asking ourselves 



ECONOMY IN THE USE OF SUPPLIES. 117 

a list of questions something like this : How many sew- 
ing machines, bicycles and other things that require 
oiling are oiled by corporation oil? How many shoes 
are re- tapped with corporation belting — old and new? 
How many bobbins, good or bad, are kindling morning 
fires at the company's expense? And so the questions 
come up in various ways — too numerous to mention. 
When this class of extravagant help want a piece of 
twine ; a lump of clean cotton ; some yarn waste ; basting 
thread ; wood screws ; nails ; pieces of rope ; wire ; boards ; 
tacks and a whole catalogue of supplies, where do they 
all come from? No measures are taken to overcome 
this, in a pleasant way, and some managers cr^^ hard 
times, while the vast majority of conscientious help hold 
their breath and whisper how long can this last? Why 
should some hands be left to feel that almost anything 
that can be had by taking, is theirs, while those who 
trod the path of strict consideration for their employer's 
goods, pay one hundred cents on the dollar for every- 
thing they get? 

There is a remedy for this — by no means small — ex- 
pense to many corporations. The people who do this 
are not dishonest. It is only the lack of education for 
the consideration of what rightfully belongs to others 
that causes this. If just so much money were left hang- 
ing around, it would make some difference; for they 
would not touch that. Supplies, nevertheless, is money 
in another form, and they help themselves to these 
things. Keep the bulk of all supplies in the supply 
room, and allow only such supplies to go out that are 
called for by the responsible heads stating for what they 
are required. The soft snap man comes to the front 
again and says: "the cure is worse than the disease.'' 
The hard worker for his company's interests cannot 
agree with that kind of talk. He labors under the gen- 



118 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

eral principles that |100.00 honorably saved for his com- 
pany in one way, is as good as saved in any other way 
that is right. To remedy this evil does take more time 
and care and the success of the effort teaches others that 
owners have a right to their own goods and to protect 
them. 



PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF RING TWISTERS. 119 

XVII. 

THE PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF RING TWISTERS. 

As the practical management of twisters does not 
usually receive much attention in the textile articles pub- 
lished, a paper on this important subject may be much 
apreciated by a large number of people who are inter- 
ested in this branch of the trade. 

Twisting machinery appears simple but it requires 
skillful management to operate it. There is the usual 
quota of complications with which to deal here as in 
other branches of the textile factory. To put through 
a certain amount of work in a given time, and have it 
perfect in quality, without making unnecessary wastes, 
and keep the cost reasonable, will tax the capacity of as 
competent men as can be secured to manage a twisting 
department. If a man is not competent, the evils which 
are liable to cross the pathway of his success are numer- 
ous and varied, as can be understood by following the 
subject as outlined in this article. 

BLACK STREAKED OR SPOTTED YARN. 

Black oil on the yarn, either in long streaks or spots, is 
one of the frequent evlis which tarnish the product of the 
twister. The cause and the remedy for this are so simple 
that any manager of twisters should be able to eradicate 
this sort of mischief without delay, and never be troubled 
henceforth again. Most twister tenders put oil in the 
steel roll bearings and use too much. This soon runs 
out at both sides of the bearing and soils the steel roll, 
which in turn carries it to the yarn, where it is licked off 
intermittently or continuously, thus making oily streaked 
or spotted yarns. As the attendants are so careless 



120 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

about wiping off the oil often enough to keep the coast 
clear entirely, there is but one remedyj which if em- 
ployed will entirely obviate this nuisance. 

To overcome this trouble have some cast iron caps 
made to fit over and onto the bearings of the steel roll 
necks. These should not rest on the roll necks, but 
should be so made that they will rest on the flanges of 
the bearings. This protection will secure the bearings 
from dust and other foreign substances. Never use any 
oil. Bid farewell to the liquid lubricant that more than 
lubricates. For a substitute use the best grade of grease 
suitable for this purpose. Keep the bearings well filled 
with same, and fit the bearing cap or cover into place. 
This remedy is ideal. The lubricant selected should not 
be too soft or it will run out like the oil. The cap 
gently compresses the grease and keeps the roll necks 
perfectly lubricated, and will be found much superior 
to the oiling method and cheaper. The bearings never 
become dry and are more uniformly oiled, but the ma- 
terial never gets onto the rolls to soil the goods. 

Another cause of black oil spots is to put too much 
oil on the rings. When an end breaks it will whip and 
wipe the ring and transmit the oily dirt to the yarn on 
the bobbins which are on the adjacent spindles. 

Letting bobbins become too full before doffing will 
wipe the dirt off from the rings and soil or blacken the 
yarn. It is best not to oil rings with an oil can. If 
it is necessarv to oil rings either individuallv or en 
masse, it is best to simply touch the rings with a sponge 
or piece of clean waste which has been saturated with 
stainless oil. 

CUT YARN. 

Another serious injury to be remedied is one which 
not only injures the yarn, but whicli also damages the 



PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF RING TWISTERS. 121 

machine. This refers to the improper use of the knife 
in removing portions of yarn which have become wound 
onto the steel rolls when ends have broken. A skilled 
twister tender can use a knife in such a manner as to 
remove a lap of yarn without cutting into the rolls. But 
where there is a person who can do this right, there are 
scores of others who will cut into or stab the rolls. The 
extent to which this mischief is carried on can be seen by 
going through several twisting departments. 

The writer was once escorted through one of the larg- 
est twisting departments in what is supposed to be one 
of the best managed mills in this country. This depart- 
ment was running on fine, two-pl}^, wet twist yarns. A 
great deal of difticulty was experienced in keeping the 
ends up. A glance at the brass-bound delivery rolls re- 
vealed the fact that every delivery — both top and bot- 
tom rolls — had been slashed by the use of the knife. The 
delicate threads, instead of passing between perfectly 
smooth rolls, were riding between rolls that were sur- 
rounded with knife-like dents or sharpedged cuttings. 
Whenever two of these edges came together, as would 
occur countless times per da^^, the yarn ends were sheared 
or ruptured sufficiently to make very weak yarn and 
which was entirely unsuitable for the high grade work 
which this yarn Avas supposed to enter. 

When this condition of things is discovered the 
remedy is to have the roll surfaces restored to their 
original smoothness by a uniform grinding and polish- 
ing process, and then apply a stop-motion to prevent 
further lopping of yarn around the rolls. If stop mo- 
tions are not practicable, especially as in the case of 
three or more ply work, on some make of twisters, then 
the attendants must be taught to watch their work more 
closely, also taught to use their knives in such a manner 



122 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

as to Hlicar the lap off from the roll instead of cutting 
into and injuring the steel rolls; i. e., use the knife as 
a man uses a razor in shaving. This is not difficult to 
learn, and when accustomed to this method it will be 
found much easier than the old way of cutting into brass 
or steel. The results of exercising this care produces 
better running work and makes stronger yarn, and both 
the attendants and company are compensated. 

Another evil which attends this lap removing diffi- 
culty is that of using the edge of a top roll as a hammer 
and cutting edge combined. This indents the rolls and 
causes the top rolls to rest and ride upon uneven sur- 
faces, and in wabbling around the threads slip through 
the openings and make unevenly twisted yarns. 

An unsecure floor or shaky foundation on which twist- 
ing machinery rests or is fastened, will cause cut yarn. 
The twisters are jarred, causing the loose top rolls to 
dance upon the delicate yarn, either breaking the ends 
or rupturing them. Yarn that is ruptured or weakened 
in this manner will not weave well and makes poor 
cloth. 

SLACK OR UNEVENLY TWISTED YARN. 

There are a number of ways by which badly twisted 
yarn can be made. Slack bands, dry spindles and bob- 
bins having worn out slats, will cause slack twisted 
yarn. Where double boss top rolls are in use and a lap 
of yarn is wound at one end of same, either on the under 
or top roll on account of ends breaking, it raises the top 
roll at one end in an angle to the under roll, and thus 
leaves a passage for the thread at the opposite end to 
run or pass through independently of the roll speed. 
This causes unevenly twisted ^-arn. It may be either 
too hard or too soft twisted, according as it is pulled 



PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF RING TWISTERS. 123 

through by a heavy or light tension of the thread at the 
time of having free course. 

Another cause of unevenly twisted yarns is when a 
twister tender ties a broken end and holds it too long 
while being twisted before passing it between the rolls 
for regular delivery. On the other hand, if he holds the 
spindle at a standstill, either by a knee break or other 
force and ties a knot while the rolls are delivering yarn, 
a slack spot will occur. He can also cause both ex- 
tremes at the same operation and have a soft and hard 
twisted length adjoining each other. 

An attendant should be taught to tie broken ends while 
both top roll and spindle are inactive. After the several 
ends are reunited, with proper care and practice he can 
start both delivery roll and spindle simultaneously, thus 
laying the yarn on the bobbin with the uniform twist 
required. 

Bad knots are a serious menace and one of the elusive 
evils of the incompetent twister tender. Any way to 
connect the severed ends suits him. It matters not whe- 
ther the ends are simply stuck together, have long tail 
knots or lapped over— any way to get the end started 
again. But there is remedy for this evil. The way to 
overcome this and as a constant tracer to locate the 
responsibility for bad work, it is best to have each man's 
bobbins marked when doffiing, or have his bobbins paint- 
ed a distinctive color, and have the mark folloAv the 
goods. 

BUNCHY;, SNARLED^ DOUBLE AND SINGLE. ALSO SPIRAL 

YARNS OR TWINE. 

All these are caused by badly running work and care- 
less operatives. The tracing method will prove an effec- 
tive remedy for this. Excessive breakage of ends is the 
result of too high or too low speed, too heavy or too 
light travelers, worn out rings, improperly set spindles, 



124 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

wea or cut yarn, dry spindles, too hard or too soft twist, 
bobbins filled too full, worn out bobbins, thread boards 
too high or too close to spindles, cut thread guides, dirty 
rolls, rings, creels, thread boards, dirty spindles, ring 
rail traverse too fast or too slow, and traverse too high 
or too low\ All these adjustments must be rightly regu- 
lated and their juxtaposition can only be determined 
by a man who is skilled in the art of running twisters. 

Excessive single work, such as ends running two-fold 
when they should be three-ply, is caused by having too 
much tension or drag on the spools. If spools are drawn 
off from dead spindles, as is customary, the tension can 
be eased somewhat by applying polished iron washers 
between the spools and creels. 

In practice the writer has found that irregular ply 
yarn is reduced to a minimum by drawing spools off 
from skewers in the same manner as done from warper 
creels. 

Creels should also be high enough above steel rolls to 
prevent the pull of the yarn from bottom spools to as- 
sume too acute angles from back thread guide to ex- 
treme end of spool heads. This will cause excessive 
breakage of threads from bottom row of spools. The 
same will also cause some spiral yarn. Spiral or un- 
evenly laid yarn is brought about by an uneven tension 
of one or more threads as drawn from the spools. 
Double roving, double yarn and unevenly numbered yarn 
make spiral work. If a lap of waste on rolls lifts one 
end of a double boss top roll, spiral yarn will come 
forth. 

PRODUCTION. 

The matter of production is interfered with, and, of 
course, will be in proportion to the wrongs or rights of 
what has been specified. The matter of properly dof- 
fing twisters enters into the question of sufficient pro- 



PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF RING TWISTERS. 125 

duction. If twister hands manage to have all their ma- 
chines stopped to doff at one time, or do not hustle to 
keep the belts onto the tight pulleys, the loss from this 
source will be amazing if reconed in dollars and cents. 
It pays to analyze these matters. 

SYSTEM. 

System on these machines, as in all other lines of 
work, should be the ruling policy of the management. 
There should be proper time set apart to clean, oil, set, 
line and level all machines. There must be prompt, am- 
bitious, hustling workers — all these things must be in 
line, and then the twisting department of the textile 
plant will be at par with the best managed rooms of 
other processes. 



126 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



XVIII. 

CONE BELTS. 

The matter of cone belting in many mills seems to be 
so unsettled that a study of this important subject will 
be appreciated by those who have not secured results 
desired. 

The breaking or slipping of cone belts on railway 
heads, slubbers, intermediate and speeders, is a vast 
source of annoyance to carders and fixers where no 
special care is taken to remedy the difficulties that lead 
to this. 

The proper thing to do with troublesome cone belts is 
to remove all undue strain. See that the bolsters and 
all bearings are properly kept cleaned and oiled. The 
next thing to remedy is the belt itself. Is it of the right 
gind of leather; of the proper width, length and thick- 
ness. All the points mentioned above enter into this 
question, including the methods of splicing or coupling. 

There are a number of different styles of cone belting, 
and there are advocates of each kind, and as much differ- 
ence of opinion as there are troubles about how to treat 
the subject. 

Of the different kinds may be mentioned the light 
double, heavy double, light single, heavy single, rawhide, 
lace sheet, mineral tanned, linked and composition. The 
latter may be part cloth and leather, or metal and 
leather. The cloth (cotton or linen) belts can also be 
entered in the list. The composition, cloth and leather, 
may include a cloth texture of linen, cotton, wool and 
any woven fabric. And then included in our list should 
be double leather belts wire sewed, linen thread sewed, 
cotton thread sewed, copper wire sewed, copper or iron 
stapled, riveted with either copper or iron rivets. And 
there is still another group of belts, as follows: belts 
with single lap or several laps; laps simply cemented; 



CONE BELTS. 12? 

sewed and cemented; cemented and iron or copper riv- 
eted laps. 

Among the methods of fastening the ends other than 
cementing joints is to use Hicks' belt hooks; Talcot 
clasps ; wire or lacing sewed ; wire laced by hand or ma- 
chine, and many other styles of cutting ends — includ- 
ing plate with iron or copper rivets and the ancient style 
I-hook joint. 

Now, for the benefit of the learner or any person hav- 
ing trouble with his cone belts, and who would like to 
find out the best cone belt arrangement, the writer begs 
of him not to try all these different styles before settling 
down to business. 

It would be as foolish to follow that method as it 
would be for the man who had never been from Boston to 
New York, and who in order to learn the quickest and 
best means of reaching New York, would try the ox 
trail; the footpath; automobile route; electric or steam 
car routes ; or be fired across from the mouth of a can- 
non. The good business man would consider his route 
and be wise, and follow the course that others have suc- 
cessfully trod before him. 

Therefore, do not try all these different shades of 
cone belts before choosing. If you do, your mile posts 
will be few and far between. 

Experience has beaten this pathway and the advice 
should be sufficient. 

A cone belt works harder to the square inch than any 
other belt in the mill. And being short, the load or 
strain is repeated per square inch oftener than in any 
other belt. 

This is sufficient reason to convince any carder from 
the start that only A No. 1 grade or quality of leather 
will do. Nothing but the best will answer the purpose. 
This should be, in thickness, heavy single leather, or 
about the thickness of light double. Have this made 



128 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

into iu(ii\ idual cone belt lengths, seamless, and lapless ; 
the only joint being the one to make it endless. This 
belt should be rendered stretchless and perfectly pliable. 
To make pliable, apply a moderate quantity of castor oil 
or neatsfoot oil, and pull the belt back and forth over a 
two-inch rod or shaft several times. To make a good 
lap, use the highest grade cement, and for a IJ-inch cone 
belt, make a 2-inch lap. Take the same care and pains 
to make as good a lap as you would on a 12-inch main 
drive. Eun smooth side to the pulley and keep the belt 
clean from day to day. The forward feather end of the 
lap should be buried beneath the surface of the belt to 
prevent lap starting or peeling. There are other kinds 
of cone belts not mentioned which for curiosity's sake 
may be spoken of. A belt made spiral like a spring wire 
coil. Also the over lap spiral belt, made somewhat like 
a clock spring. Then we have the double purchase cone 
belts, where another or second belt runs over the first. 
Another style is to have two belts (narrow) run side by 
side, or the multiple belt, where several very narrow 
belts run side by side or parallel as one belt. And the 
steel tape with flexible material affixed on one side, also 
the steel linked with flexible contact material of either 
leather or composition on one side. 

Linked cone belts are undesirable because they impart 
a rikety movement or almost intermittent motion in- 
stead of a continuous drive. 

Double leather belting, although considerably recom- 
mended, will not do ; because the outside belt is sure to 
depart from the contact half of the belt. In other words, 
it will split, unglue, or rip if sewed. All this is caused, 
as is well known, bv the outer half or outside laver hav- 
ing to travel farther than the half which travels on the 
inside of the circle or circumference. 

Much more can be written on this subject. But the 
student should look the ground over carefully and 
reason out the undesirable points for himself. 



THE NEW OVERSEER. 129 

XIX. 

THE NEW OVERSEER. 

The idea of this article is to bring more vividly before 
the mind of the reader the peculiar relationship of the 
new overseer to his help, to his employer, and to his new 
environments. What to expect, or what not to expect 
of him ; how to deal with these new^ conditions ; and how 
long should it take him to straighten his department, 
are questions which are of vital importance to all con- 
cerned, viz : his employer ; the help ; and to the new over- 
seer. That his reign from the start should be propitious 
is of equal importance to each party. A mistake at the 
beginning may retard progress to a remote season and 
possibly upset what might have been a prosperous reign. 

In the nature of things it happens too often that too 
much is expected all at once of a new overseer. His 
success depends very much upon how he is received by 
the superintendent, and yet much depends upon how the 
new incumbent takes hold of the situation. 

In the first place, the superintendent having found 
and selected the man of his choice, he should make the 
most of his opportunity to welcome him with strong in- 
terest. Make him feel that he is the man whose help he 
needs and wants. Keep in close touch with him and 
assist him in making his new settlement comfortable. 
Many a man makes a poor start because his settlement in 
the new house is not complete or comfortable. The new 
man needs time to settle down, and get some rest before 
undertaking a heavy position. Having settled and re- 
ported for dut}^, the superintendent should take the new 
overseer through his department and introduce him to 
the second-hands, giving all clearly to understand that 
he is to have entire charge and that they must refer their 
9 



130 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

business solely to the new boss. The superintendent 
from this time on should respect this rule and never 
come between the new overseer and the help, and see 
that the overseer has first consideration and receive all 
the orders first hand. The new overseer should never 
.be burdened with the caution that he must show results 
at once or within certain limits. If the new overseer 
is the kind of man which should have been selected, it 
will not be necessary to strap a yoke on him. Just give 
him the reins; let him do the driving, and the results 
will come in due time. 

What can be and should be reasonably expected is 
that the new overseer will not attempt to revolutionize 
the place. The days of revolutionizing have passed. 
What is needed now is evolution in the textile business. 
The new overseer should build a fortress of security on 
what he finds. He should start with the work as he 
finds it and make it grow and bear fruit with him. It 
is poor policy to tear down the whole system he finds, 
and attempt to start a new regime all at once. Keep 
the plant running as it is found. Strengthen one w^eak 
place at a time. Keep a steady pull. Train the help 
that is found on the spot. Do not force your methods 
upon them — use the inductive method, which is to show 
them the better way by repeated efforts. 

The new overseer, strictly speaking, should be an 
overseer who is always ^^new.'^ He must be inventive, 
resourceful, buoyant, well read, a leading general at his 
business, and a man who inspires his help through thick 
and thin, and fires them with the zeal that carries 
weight into the production ; finish into the quality ; and 
profit into the sales. 

How long it should take to bring all this abont is the 
all-absorbing topic to the company. If the new man is 
a hustling, hard worker, and leaves the revolutionary 



THE NEW OVERSEER. 131 

methods behind, and takes a strong interest and a deep 
pride in his new sphere, it may take a long time to see 
the full result of his capacity; for his improvements 
never end. There may be no splurge nor colored soap 
bubbles to start with, but his record, in time, will make 
the profit side of the ledger teem with delightful interest 
to the management and the stockholders. 

One of the most successful textile manufacturers has 
straightened out some departments by increasing the 
cost of the department one-half at the start instead of 
decreasing it. But the company believed in him and 
trusted him — gave him every encouragement — and at 
the end of one year this man had so thoroughly straight- 
ened out the place, and organized his forces, that he in- 
creased the production more than 25 per cent and re- 
duced the cost 50 per cent below what he found it. If 
this man's success had depended upon making a showing 
during the first six months of his reign he would have 
been pronounced a failure. It takes time to bring out 
results. Give the new man a fair chance, remembering 
that it may take a year to make a showing, and results 
are bound to follow. The second year will usually be a 
record breaker, and the older this man becomes the 
newer he is. All the help pull with him, and together 
they keep the orders promptly filled with much sought 
for goods. 



132 THE MAi4AGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XX. 

SOME IMPROVEMENTS OF THE FUTURE COTTON MILL 

(a PROPHESY.) 

During the last decade there have been so many great 
improvements in cotton mills that it might seem impos- 
sible to continue the quick march of progress which has 
attended the art. However this may seem to the ordi- 
nary observer, to the progressive class of builders and 
to the skilled manufacturer, there can be no help, and 
the cotton mill of the future will supersede the mill of 
the past. And to mention some of the advantages that 
the future cotton mill may have is the object of this 
article. 

During the last decade or so we have seen the North- 
rop loom replacing the ordinary plain goods loom to a 
vast extent. The revolving flat carding engine hardly 
leaves a trace of the old style carding machines. But 
the spinning has not kept pace with the advancement of 
the carding and weaving. There are several inventions 
now being developed that may bring the spinning de- 
partment, whether for fine or coarse w^ork, and frame 
or mule spun, more into line with the progress that the 
weaving and carding has made. What inventors are en- 
deavoring to accomplish now is a spinning machine that 
will spin about twice as much yarn as the ordinary ma- 
chines on the same floor space, or on less floor space if 
possible. And there is no doubt that the cotton mill of 
the future will have a far superior spinning department 
than the present mill contains. The machines will be 
provided with doflflng mechanism which will render them 
almost self-doffing. And the bobbin traffic of this de- 
partment and throughout the mill will be self-conveyed 
to points wanted instead of being trundled on the floor 
by boys and wearing out costly floors. 



IMPROVEMENTS OF THE FUTURE. 133 

There will be a great deal more attention given to the 
wastes and the waste house. The present high price of 
cotton has led many mills to realize the evil of leaving 
the waste house in charge of the greenest man that 
comes along. The future mill will have a conveniently 
located, well lighted and fireproof waste house. It will 
be in charge of a man who can be trusted and compe- 
tent to protect the company's interests. (The writer 
does not depreciate the ordinary waste man. As a rule 
he does the best that he knows how. He is usually called 
upon to work in the darkest, coldest and most disagree- 
able place on the premises, with no conveniences what- 
ever, and yet expected to do good w^ork. Some of these 
men keep at their posts for years and are as faithful as 
any servant employed.) The coming waste man will be 
trained for his work ; have whatever assistance he needs ; 
v/ill assort all wastes; have comfortable desk room; re- 
ceive the superintendent's daily calls, and the waste re- 
port will be as interesting and as carefully scrutinized 
as any other mill report by the officials. 

Another great improvement in connection with the 
waste house will be the pneumatic system of conveying 
all wastes from the mill. There will be no waste boxes 
kept in the mill. Stand pipes will be conveniently lo- 
cated, and at the proper time the sweepers, etc., will 
sweep their sweepings up to one of the stand pipes and 
the air will deliver same to the waste house. Other 
w^aste will be carried to these pnuematic pipes or con- 
veyances to meet the same end. And this pneumatic 
system will be carried further; it will deliver the cloth 
from the looms to the cloth room; it will carry written 
messages or orders from the superintendent's office to 
the overseer's desk ; also perform ventilating service. 

Another improvement will be the elevated office cen- 
trally located in each department. The advantages of 



134 THE Management of cotton mills. 

this improvement are obvious to the intelligent reader. 
To have an overseer's office cooped down under the stair- 
way or some other dark hole is not commendable nor 
compatible. The future mill will be entirely electrically 
driven; i. e.^ motors wil take the place of belts at each 
machine, and the whole mill will be run by wires. There 
will be neither shafts or belts. The magic fluid will not 
only drive and illuminate but will also heat the plant. 
It will be possible to raise or to drop window shades not 
only individually, but collectively and simultaneously 
by a shaft which engages all of them. By the same ar- 
rangement the ventilating can be taken care of, i. e,, 
when more than one or two windows require opening all 
can be raised or opened by a shaft which engages all of 
them. 

The future cotton mill will purchase its cotton from 
first hands. A trusted man who is competent will serve 
the company by keeping in touch with the growers and 
purchase directly from them. He may also contract 
with them to grow a required amount of cotton at a fixed 
price, thus doing away with the evils of market fluctua- 
tions and giving the speculators an opportunity to learn 
to card and spin or weave for a living. (It would do 
them good.) The cotton mill of the future will become 
more generally a mill of specialty, like, for example, the 
Fall River Iron Works mills and others. The success- 
ful cotton mill will, like the individual, concentrate its 
forces on one line of goods and stake its eternal reputa- 
tion upon that line. 

The spinning frames will be provided with hank 
clocks ; and an annunciation board in the executive office 
will be a constant thermometer to show how much ma- 
chinery is idle. These hank clocks and annunciators 
will be an incentive to keep a closer attention to keeping 
the machinery running and productive. 



IMPROVEMENTS OF THE FUTURE. 135 

There will also be shorter hours of labor, and during 
working hours stricter attention to business will be de- 
manded; and there will be a deeper individual effort to 
concentrate the mind upon the work. Only the best 
help will be emploj^ed — those who take pride and a 
strong interest in promoting the company's best interest. 
Eating, playing, ''killing time'' in the mill will be rele- 
gated to the past. Cleanliness will be another virtue of 
the coming mill. Cleanliness of person and premises 
will be conspicuous throughout the plant. Self-winding 
clocks, daily set by standard-time wire connection, will 
be in evidence in all departments. The air-moisteners 
will use only sterilized water. The mill of future time 
will take better care of its picker room and its drawing 
frames. These are two other places where most any 
kind of help answers the purpose in the mill of to-day. 
The mill which we look forward to will not be perfect. 
There will still be room for improvement. That the 
mill of to-day is not up to its opportunities is a painful 
reality. That the men of the present can make it what 
it should be is an encouraging fact, and the plea of the 
writer is that they "brace up" and make it more like the 
cotton mill of the future. The art is worthy of the 
effort. 



136 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XXI. 

UNUSUAL PROBLEMS IN A COTTON MILL 

In this article it is proposed to bring to light some of 
the unusual problems which arise from time to time in 
the course of a progressive man's experience. On what 
is termed straight work, as in a plain goods mill, making 
print cloths or sheetings, it is rarely the case that such 
difficult problems come up, as do in connection with 
mills that are on custom novelties and forever changing 
from one style of goods to another, and which frequently 
create combinations that are not called for on straight 
work. 

To those who have not had a varied experience there 
are many knotty problems which may in time be encoun- 
tered, and it is well to be prepared to meet them. To 
know" how to card, spin and weave, either individually or 
collectively, is desirable beyond question. To know how 
to do one or more of these, as a trade, is of prime im- 
portance. That a close student and a hard worker can 
learn a branch well, either by serving his time and 
studying in the mill, or by taking a textile school course 
and then serving his time in the mill, is unquestionable. 
There must be study and serving of time at the work 
itself in either case. To be a hard worker simply is not 
sufficient. A person must study as he works and be 
able to think and reason out his knotty problems when 
he meets them. This is important, because in large 
plain goods mills, as well as in the textile school, abnor- 
mal conditions do not arise. 

When a man starts out to take a new job that may 
have a variety of goods connected with it, he may find 
himself surrounded by local conditions entirely foreign 
to him. Therefore he must be versatile, as it were, to 



UNUSUAL PROBLEMS. 137 

be able to cope with different local conditions, to make 
any line of work that he may have been accustomed to 
manufacture. 

Carrying out this subject, here is a case in hand which 
comes in for treatment : 

PROBLEMS. 

1. A man took a yarn mill and was required to fill an 
order for 8s yarn. It was a small order and had to be 
made at once, or considerable loss of future trade would 
be the result. He had plenty of three-hank roving, with 
which he made 18s to 24s, and a little two-hank, from 
which he made 12s to 16s. There was not enough two- 
hank to make the 8s and no gears to use in case there 
was enough two-hank. He was a rapid thinker and de- 
cided to make this 8s from the three-hank and the two- 
hank run double. He filled his order on schedule time 
and secured much future trade consequent upon the ex- 
cellent quality of this yarn. 

2. Now the question arises among those who have 
never had occasion to resort to this makeshift as to what 
hank roving this combination gave. If he had used 
three-hank double, of course the simple matter of divid- 
ing 3 by 2 would give 1.50, which is right. But where 
the double process is made up of two different sizes of 
roving, the rule is to multiply one by the other and di- 
vide by their sum, thus : 3x2 divided by 3 plus 2 equals 
1.20 hank. 

3. If a spinner has a draft of three between the mid- 
dle and back rolls and a draft of four between the front 
and the middle rolls, what is the total draft? Ask ten 
ordinary spinners this question and nine of them will 
answer that the total draft is seven, which is wrong. 
The rule is to multiply one by the other, thus : 3x4 equals 
12, which gives the correct draft. 



138 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

4. A yarn mill had a call for a small lot of 12-3 yarn. 
As this was from a regular customer, they did not 
wish to turn the order down, although it was very in- 
convenient to arrange changes to make it just at that 
time. In their stock they had an equal amount of 16-4, 
and the manager showed his tact by securing the accept- 
ance of this odd lot on hand in lieu of the 12-3 wanted, 
which was no difference in size. 

5. It was necessary to change a spinning frame from 
fine to coarse work, and for a twist gear it required a 60 
T gear, which, by the way, was the same size as the jack 
gear. This was a "hurry up" order, and no twist gear 
could be found. The spinner had to juggle with new 
conditions again, and finally decided to run this frame 
without a twist gear. He simply moved his 60 T jack 
over where the twist gear belonged and used it as an in- 
termediate between the cylinder gear and the train of 
large gears, and secured the twist wanted without de- 
laying. 

6. How to make long staple yarn that has a core of 
short cotton or a waste centre. Make it from triple rov- 
ing process instead of the double roving process. Have 
three small roving trumpets instead of one for each end. 
Pass the long staple roving through the outer trumpets, 
and the waste or inferior roving intended for the core 
should pass through the centre trumpet. The core rov- 
ing should be made a size smaller than the binder rov- 
ings. This will make a very nice appearing yarn, but 
the strength will be below par.' 

7. How to find the throw of the heart: Measure the 
distance from the centre to the toe and deduct the dis- 
tance from the centre to the heel. The remainder gives 
the throw. 

8. How to ascertain the amount of weight on the top 
rolls of spinning frames, etc., where the leverage system 



UNUSUAL PROBLEMS. 139 

is used: Weigh the weight; we will suppose that the 
weight weighs four pounds ; the length of the lever from 
where the weight hook hangs to the point where it passes 
through the stirrup is five inches, and from this point 
to the lever screw, one inch. The rule is to multiply the 
long lever by the weight hung to same and divide by the 
short lever and then add the weight. Example : 5 inches 
X 4 lbs. ~ 1 inch X 4 lbs = 24 lbs. 

9. Percentage : To many the lessons of percentage are 
yet unknown. It is surprising the number of men who 
already occupy positions of more or less responsibility 
and who do not understand how to compute percentage. 
To illustrate this assertion : Some years ago it was neces- 
sary to increase the speed of some machinery slightly, 
part of which was driven by pulleys of 20 inches diame- 
ter and the rest by pulleys of 30 inches diameter, but 
running at the same speed. The superintendent ordered 
the 20-inch pulleys to be replaced with 24-inch pulleys 
and the 30-inch pulleys to have 36-inch pulleys instead. 
The overseer, who, by the way, was considered a good 
manager and a successful man, found a great deal of 
fault because this edict called for four-inch larger pul- 
leys in the one case and six-inch larger ones in the second 
case. And it was only after the most careful analysis 
that this man was convinced that each group of machin- 
ery was being speeded up in the same proportion. "Why 
is it," said he, "that you are increasing the speed more 
on the larger pulleys than on the smaller ones? You 
should increase the size four inches on both the 24 and 
36-inch pulleys." It is because of these simple confu- 
sions that the writer is led to explain simply how to 
solve some of these hard ( ? ) problems. The same ques- 
tion arises about changing one tooth of twist or draft 
when a 20 T gear is working on one set of machinery, 
but changing two teeth of twist or draft on another set 



140 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

of machines making the same goods as the other set, but 
using 40 T gears. To settle this important question the 
whole matter is one of percentage or relative differences. 
The rule is to bear in mind that the constant number of 
percentage is 100. In other words, this constant num- 
ber, 100, represents the whole of anything that is or can 
be divided into 100 equal parts. Let us now take up the 
case of the pulleys : If a 20-inch pulley is increased four 
inches, it is increasing the size one-fifth, as one-fifth of 
100 is 20 ; the size is enlarged 20 per cent. That is the 
size is increased at the rate of 20 inches in every 100 
inches. Now, in regard to the 30-inch pulley, we must 
find one-fifth of same, which is six inches, and six inches 
is 20 per cent of 30 inches, and it is increased in the 
same proportion that the 24-inch pulleys were, and both 
will give the same increased speed. In regard to the 
gears 20 T and 40 T, if we add one tooth to the smaller 
gear we must add two teeth to the larger gear, because 
it is twice as large; one-twentieth of 100 is five; two- 
fortieths of 100 is five. Both changes equal five per cent, 
and one is not increased more proportionately than the 
other. 

10. How to change the draft or twist "one-half tooth'' : 
When a crown gear or jack gear is twice as large (or 
nearly so) as its accompanying change, draft or twist 
gear, changing one tooth in either the crown or jack 
gear gives only one-half the result that changing one 
tooth in the regular change gear does. This measure is 
often very useful in properl}^ adjusting twist and sizes 
when close figuring is desired. 

11. Testing the yarn strength tester : In a mill where 
a very good quality of yarn was being made, the break- 
ing strength was very poor. "What makes our yarn 
break so poorly?" cried the management. The testing 
machine was tested and properlj' adjusted and the yarn 



UNUSUAL PROBLEMS. 141 

was found to be of excellent breaking strength. Under 
the writer's supervision a second evil of this kind came 
to light. The yarn was breaking much better than its 
quality would warrant. An inspection of the yarn tester 
revealed the fact that the weight had been moved up on 
the lever arm about one-quarter of an inch, giving much 
less strain on the weak yarn and making it appear to be 
stronger than the standard. This machine should be 
tested, and the way to test it is to hang a 100 pound 
weight on the hook. If the pointer registers 100 pounds 
on the dial, the tester is in proper order. See that the 
machine stands plumb. 

12. How to approximate the strength of cotton yarns 
instantly : Divide 1,800 by the number of the yarn and 
the quotient will be nearly what it should break in 
pounds. 

13. How to ascertain the centrifugal force: Square 
the velocity in feet per second; multiply this by the 
weight of the revolving body in pounds. Then divide 
this product by 32 times the radius in feet at centre of 
gravity. The centre of gravity means at exactly the 
middle of the body when evenly balanced. If unevenly 
balanced or the body should be irregular, the centre of 
gravity would not necessarily be in the middle of the 
body, but at a point where the weight of the body should 
be evenly distributed on all sides. 

14. To find the length of belting in a roll : Add the 
whole to the diameter of the roll ; multiply this sum by 
the coils in the roll, and 13 per cent of this product will 
give very near the length in feet. 

15. If a spinner is using a filling bobbin, the diameter 
of which is 7-16 inches, with a If-inch ring, does he gain 
anything by substituting a bobbin of f-inch diameter and 
l|-inch ring, and how much is the difference? He is 
a gainer by the change. The difference can be found in 



142 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

this way : The difference between 7-16-inch bobbins and 
If-inch rings is 15-16 inch. The difference between f- 
inch bobbins and l^-inch rings is 14-16 of an inch, and 
14-16 of an inch being 1-16 of an inch less than 15-16 of 
an inch, the spinner has the advantage of having 1-32 of 
an inch less distance from the bobbin barrel to the ring 
than before the change. An improvement of this kind 
always makes the work run much better. 

16. When the diameter of the bobbin is increased is 
more twist being put in the yarn, and how to ascertain 
the difference? More twist is put into the yarn as the 
bobbin increases in size. The proper rule or method for 
ascertaining the per cent gain of twist per inch when the 
diameter of the bobbin is increased is illustrated as fol- 
lows : We will take the two different size bobbins men- 
tioned in problem No. 1, one being 7-16 of an inch diame- 
ter and the other f of an inch. We will assume that the 
revolutions per minute of the front roll is 128, also one 
inch in diameter, and that the speed of the spindles on 
which the bobbins are used is 9,000 revolutions per 
minute. Then proceed as follows: Multiply the speed 
of the front roll together with the diameter of the bob- 
bins, thus: 

128 X 3 1-7 — 402 in. you are deli^ ered per minute : 

7-16 in. X 3 1-7 = 1.375 in. 1 ^ ^, ^ , r.. . 

^ ^ „ ^ ^^. . r Length around bobbin. 
f m. X 3 1-7 = 1.964 in. ) "^ 

The next in order to learn is the number of rings or 
layers of yarn that each can take in winding the 402 
inches of yarn delivered by the front roll. Example : 

Bobbins. 

7-16 in. 402 in. -4- 1.375 in. = 292 layers. 

f in. 402 in. -f- 1.964 in. = 205 layers. 

Each layer represents a loss of one turn of twist and 



UNUSUAL PROBLEMS. 143 

must be subtracted from the total revolutions per minute 
of the spindles. 

Bobbins. 

7-16 in. 9000 — 292 = 8708 
f in. 9000 — 205 = 8795 
Now, by dividing each remainder by 402, the relative 
amount of twist put in by each bobbin is ascertained. 
Bobbins. 

7-16 in. 8708 ~ 402 = 21.66 turns per in. 
f in. 8795 ~ 402 = 21.88 turns per in. 
To find the per cent of twist gained subtract the lesser 
turns per inch from the greater turns per inch, and then 
divide by the greater, thus : 

21.88 — 21.66 = .22 -f- 21.88 = 1 6-100 per cent. 
Of course this example only shows the amount of twist 
put into the yarn when starting the spinning frame with 
the empty bobbins. Thereafter the twist is constantly 
varying by the increased size of the bobbin, as it is being 
filled; the rising and falling of the traverse rail, the dif- 
ferent degrees of the tension, sizes of bands, variation in 
numbers and finally by the unevenness of the yarn itself 
at any number, and the action of the weather on the 
bands and upon the work in general. But as the ^^give'' 
and "take'^ of these different forces cross one another^s 
pathway so frequently, these differences are consider- 
ably neutralized and a piece of yarn, as a rule, when 
twisted under normal conditions, is quite evenly twisted. 
Another matter which helps to neutralize the varying 
forces mentioned and which we believe has never been 
mentioned by other writers, is the fact that the twist 
runs and adjusts itself to a large extent as it is laid onto 
the yarn. 

17. That troublesome jack gear question! It often 
occurs that when the jack gear has to be changed on a 



144 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

twister or spinning frame that tlie beginner is troubled 
about just liow to proceed, especially when the jack gear 
is not adjustable to the cylinder gear, but is in a fixed 
swivel to rotate about the cylinder gear. In this case 
if a larger jack gear is required, it is necessary to reduce 
the size of the cylinder gear in the same proportion that 
the jack gear is enlarged, and vice versa. The simplest 
rule is to add the total number of teeth in each gear, 
thus: 

Jack gear 80 T 

Cylinder gear 40 T 

Total 120 

From this sum subtract the number of teeth in the 
new jack gear of the same pitch and the remainder will 
be the number of teeth which the new cylinder gear must 
be to pair. Example : 

Total teeth in old pair 120 T 

New jack gear 100 T 

New cylinder gear 20 T 

That is, am^ pair of gears of the original pitch, having 
a total of 120 teeth, can work properly in that fixed or 
limited space. The distance from center to center of 
both combinations would be the same. In making this 
change, if it is impossible to find a new pair of gears of 
the same pitch, the distance from center to center of the 
original pair having been ascertained, any pair of new 
gears of a different pitch having the corresponding dis- 
tance from center to center can work in the same space. 
Of course, where the jack gear is adjustable to the cylin- 
der gear, either can be increased or decreased in size, 
independently of the other. 

18. Another technical point in connection with the 



UNUSUAL PROBLEMS. 145 

jack gear question is its relationship to the twist gear. 
If a jack gear has 80 T and the twist gear has 20 T, 
what twist gear should pair with a jack gear having 
100 T? The rule is simply one of proportion, thus: 
80 : 20 : : 100 : 25. The mental solution would be : As 
20 is one-quarter of 80, so 25 is one-quarter of 100. 

And so the problems come up, one after another, and 
unless a man has tact and is more or less familiar with 
odd and out of the way methods of accomplishing quick 
results, he will be out-generaled and lose prestige. The 
cotton manufacturing business is now on a plane where 
it requires men who can grapple with new problems, and 
meet them and solve them with the every day things at 
hand. 



10 



146 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



XXII. 




SECTION I— INTRODUCTORY. 

The duties and work of a cotton mill superintendent 
call forth all the virtues that a man can cultivate. His 
duties cover a vast deal of territor}^ He deals with all 
kinds of characters; comes into touch with multitudi- 
nous details; and is the everlasting power behind the 
throne upon which lean all the subordinate heads for 
counsel and direction. In other words, he is the whole 
push, and the constituency of the plant. 

To be a competent cotton mill superintendent, a man 
must not only thoroughly understand the processes 
through Avhich the cotton must pass to be manufactured 
into the goods required, he must be a good judge of hu- 

* Published in the " l?ook-keei)er anrl IJnsiiioss Man's Maija/ine, Aiijr. and Sept.. 190J. 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 147 

man nature and be a good manager for help. He should 
have a fertile brain; a retentive memory; broad views, 
good command of language, be an excellent logician and 
have best of business training to govern the extensive 
force of skilled Avorkers and dictate the course events 
should take to command popular approval, and bring 
revenue to his firm that is commensurate to the capital 
invested. 

While the above mentioned qualities are invaluable to 
the successful manager and his mills, there is another 
field in which his superiority should be entirely at home. 
In a publication like The Book-Keeper ^ it is only natural 
that an article of this scope should bear heavily upon the 
mathematical side of the executive's business; for in no 
office are figures required to produce such fine, long and 
well drawn-out results as in a superintendent's office. 
His success depends largely upon being a good mill 
mathematician, and being quick and accurate at figures. 
For him to be able to solve the speeds and possible pro- 
duction of the various machines is a prime requisite in 
locating leakages and excessive costs, improving methods 
so that needless expenses may be curtailed, and be able 
to maintain full production and superior selling quali- 
ties in his line of goods. To accomplish all this satis- 
factorily, he must know how to exercise his power of 
influence to organize his various departments on a fruit- 
bearing basis that will insure the largest margin of 
profits. 

As it requires continual following up of these matters 
of production, qualities, wastes, costs, etc., he is obliged 
to have a system of daily reports from each department. 
These reports, although concise, should be carefully 
drawn up so as to show at a glance just what each 
branch of the plant is accomplishing daily. They ought 
not to be elaborate as it would complicate matters, tak- 



148 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

ing too much of the departmental overseer's time to fill 
out, also too extensive for the superintendent to pur- 
sue. 

The system which works best is for the superintendent 
to arrange, in his private office, a file for each depart- 
ment in their respective order as follows: Carding, 
spinning, spooling and warping, twisting and quilling, 
dye house and bleachery, beaming and drawing-in, weav- 
ing, finishing, repair shop, yard and waste house, power 
plant, etc. 

The form of reports best adapted are those of uni- 
form size and which can be arranged in common for each 
department. The heading should read so that same can 
be filled out for the day, week or month ending. In 
this way the daily reports can be taken up and averaged 
for one week or month or for any period of time, as 
desired. The most important particulars wanted on 
these reports might be summarized briefiy as follows: 

Number of hands in 

Number of hands out 

Machines stopped 

Average size of goods 

Goods finished 

Second rate goods 

Per cent of possible production 

Goods shipped 

Stock on hand 

Labor costs 

Wastes 

Sup pHes recei V ed 

Remarks 

The form or style and character of these reports can 
be varied to suit each department, and any information 
called for that the superintendent desires to obtain and 
have daily at hand. Of course his prudence will not 
permit to over-burden the departmental heads who in 
turn have to gather data from many sources, and these 
overseers must have ample time to manage their help. 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 149 

The superintendent in making his tours of inspection, 
which should be as frequent daily as practicable, will 
not trust to his memeory for carrying details to his 
office for future consideration. He will make notes free- 
ly. In giving orders of heavy importance he should pre- 
sent same in writing, also ascertain if the recipient cor- 
rectly interprets its diction in full, as intended. In 
this w^ay much misunderstanding is avoided and costly 
failures to produce timely results are retired. 

To this help he will be impartial, take deep interest 
in their welfare, and inspire them through many chan- 
nels of assistance to be fully efficient — giving their best 
service every day. In the community he will lend his 
influence to every agency that may uplift humanity and 
inspire them to a fuller realization of the Creator's 
ideals. 

The superintendent will also keep in very close touch 
with the representative of his company. If his mills are 
large he may be responsible to a resident agent. If they 
are small he may be filling both positions under his title 
and be responsible to a non-resident representative who 
is usually the treasurer, but sometimes the president or 
managing director. In any event, unless he is proprie- 
tor, he must either directly or indirectly responsible to 
his company. Hence it will become him to keep them 
w^ell posted as to the conditions of his mills, guard their 
interests with strictest integrity, and be obedient to their 
governing policy. When appearing before them to 
either make reports or seek counsel, he will have much 
for which to answer. Here, again, he must be apt and 
ready. He should have his memoranda carefully ar- 
ranged beforehand, have his subjects and subdivisions in- 
dexed so that he can put his finger on the point under 
consideration instantly. In taking his orders, he must 
be equally cautious to have his notes clearly fixed in 



150 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

his mind ; for upon the proper execution of these orders 
depend, in the meantime, the success of his mills and 
his own reputation. He must produce the goods 
required to grow in favor with his superiors. 

The superintendent who thus conducts himself will 
be eminently successful. The help will admire and fol- 
low him, and the company will find him so invaluable 
that unswerving confidence will be reposed in his ca- 
pacity and sterling qualities. 

The question as to what salary a man of this exper- 
ience, stamp and calibre can command is usually in pro- 
portion to the size of the plant of which he is called upon 
to take charge, and in many cases the matter of salary 
is arbitrary. Some of the small mills have men with 
whom they would not part at any cost of salary, and 
will pay even more than many large mills. In this case 
the directors believe in staking their success upon the 
man who is making them a fair profit rather than to 
risk their chances with a new man who would work 
for much less. While the large mills usually pay the 
larger salaries, there are many paying much less than 
the very small plants. The salary list of superinten- 
dents, agents, managers, etc., ranges between |1,500 to 
120,000 per annum. And a hustling good superinten- 
dent who takes a strong interest and very deep pride 
in devoting his entire time to promoting his company's 
welfare is worth many times any salary that may be 
paid him. This kind of a man is the most valuable as- 
set that a corporation can have; for the most lavishly 
endowed plant is useless so far as returns are concerned 
without a man who can produce paying results from 
same. The man who has the ability to produce results 
is as likely to fare as well with some small plants as 
with large ones. 



WORK OF THE SUPEltlNTEXDENT. 151 

SECTION II— MANUFACTURING. 

It is the cotton mill superintendent's business to take 
the raw cotton as brought to him in bales and manufac- 
ture same into the line of goods wanted and sold by his 
company. As a rule, he is a good judge of cotton, and 
renders valuable advice in selecting the staple best 
adapted for the goods desired. He does not purchase 
the cotton, and as it is customary for the treasurer to 
attend to this as well as the financial matters of the com- 
pany. The selling of the goods is usually done through 
commission houses, thus the superintendent does not 
sell the godds. He confines himself to the proper meth- 
ods of manufacture, and to the economical operations 
of the plant. 

At the manufacturing end he must take the raw cot- 
ton (which has alread}' been ginned and baled) and 
clean, card, spin, weave and finish into the marketable 
goods of his firm. During all these operations, the eco- 
nomical end of the trade is the most important part of 
his enterprise. This means that the successful superin- 
tendent must not only know how to manufacture, but 
he must be enterprising enough to produce maximum 
quantity at minimum cost and maintain superior sell- 
ing qualities. To accomplish these ends he must have 
the most skilled organized forces and most rapidly mov- 
ing bodies knoAvn to science. There is no industry 
which calls forth so much energy, and demands such 
close attention as does the manufacturing of cotton 
goods. In no work is there brought to bear so varied 
and intricate combinations of elements and circum- 
stances. Unless a man has a strong, fertile brain, a 
wealth of patience, vast capacity of details, is ambitious 
and blessed with untiring energy, he must never expect 
to reach the top round of the ladder in this business, 
which embraces these requisites and more. 



152 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

The superintendent being a thorough, practical mann- 
facturer, appreciates the value of having practical over- 
seers under his care. With him it matters not whether 
the overseer is a textile school graduate or direct from 
the ranks with practical training. Everything else be- 
ing equal one is as valuable as the other and they have 
an equal chance. The only difference is that the am- 
bitious man from the ranks is trained and educated, the 
textile school graduate, unless he has previousl}^ served 
his time, is educated, but must afterwards be trained 
into the ranks, as they really are. Both must have had 
thorough experience at the trade as it is practiced be- 
fore they can render efficient service. Virtually, there 
are no short cuts, and in either case the ''goat" must 
be ridden. It is the work accomplished by the individ- 
ual that tells in his favor. Eternal push is the price of 
his success, and by his fruits only can he advance. 

Starting Avith the carding department, the overseer 
of which will be a well trained carder, we will now take 
up the processes in their successive order and take the 
interested reader through the mill and follow the raw 
cotton, observing the modus operandi to the finished 
goods. 

OPENERS OR LAPPERS. 

The first process is the opening department, and the 
technical points of advantage to be considered here are 
of vital importance. Many superintendents have failed 
with their mills because of the inattention given to the 
picker room, or opening department. The first consid- 
eration is to get good average mixing of the cotton on 
hand. This is done by taking a proportionate number 
of bales from each lot. No less than one week's supply 
should be opened at one time, and this should stand a 
day or two before putting same through the machines. 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 153 

Cotton to work well must be well broken open either by 
hand or by a bale breaker so that there will be no lumps 
or matted mass of cotton in the pile. The reason for let- 
ting it stand a day or more in the pile is to air it well, 
drying out any possible excessive moisture, or vice versa, 
adding the normal moisture when same is excessively 
dry. This restores the equilibrium, giving the i cotton a 
better working tenure. 

The next thing to do is to beat the cotton in the ma- 
chine and remove seeds, etc., without injuring the fiber. 
To prevent injury to the stock, the beaters are not set 
too close to feed rolls. In an ordinary plain goods cot- 
ton mill, making prints, sheetings, drillings and the 
like, the staple or length of fiber is not likely to exceed 
one and one-eighth inches, and will average one inch 
to one and one-sixteenth inches. The first beater should 
not be set closer than one-fourth inch to feed rolls. 
If the stock averages one and one-sixteenth inches, set 
the first beater no closer than five-sixteenths inch to feed 
rolls. Another very fine point to consider is the edge of 
the beater blades. They should not have shear edges. The 
edges should be slightly rounded so that the stock is 
struck a forceful blow without cutting or bruising the 
fibers. Each successive beater can be set one-thirty-sec- 
ond inch to one-sixteenth inch closer than the preceding 
beater. The opener beaters should not revolve over 
1,200 revolutions a minute. All other beaters not over 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The speed of fans must 
be regulated to suit local condition. While the above 
rules form a basis from which to start, experience alone 
can adapt these adjustments to give best local results. 
The successful superintendent makes a great deal of his 
opening department. He requires that closest observa- 
tion be given to every detail. His machines must be per- 
fectly level, lubricated, and scrupulously clean. The 
picker room gives its best results when the temperature 



154 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

is not allowed to become chilled. Air should be warm 
and moist enough to prevent electricity from effecting 
operations. 

Lastly, the weighing of finished laps is a matter of con- 
stant record to the well-managed plant. The system 
which is most satisfactory is to have printed slips with 
four columns. The second column is for all laps weigh- 
ing the standard required. The third column is for laps 
weighing heavier, and the first column for those weigh- 
ing lighter. No laps are used that weigh one pound 
heavier or lighter than the standard. All that is neces- 
sary to do is to enter a mark in the proper column when 
each lap is weighed, and the most illiterate can be taught 
to keep a correct record of the laps. The well-trained 
lapper tender will make very few "off'' laps. However, 
when there is a quantity of either too light or too heavy 
laps, care is taken not to use more of one than of the 
other at the same time on the cards to keep the mark 
even. 

The record of these laps is kept on a single report 
which is turned over to the overseer every night, who 
in turn must indorse and send same to the superinten- 
dent. This places the number keeping of the opening 
department under careful supervision, and is of vast 
importance to all subsequent processes. 

The matter of help in the opening department is a 
matter that the successful superintendent courts with 
zealous care. He makes it a point to secure the best help 
and to keep them. Continual changing of help in this 
department is disastrous to the success of the plant. 
Haing put the cotton through the opening department 
under the most successful methods, we are now prepared 
to take up the carding of the stock. 

CARDING ENGINES. 

The function of the card is not fully implied in the 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 



155 



name. The carding engine not only lays the fibers 
straight, but removes a vast deal of fine dirt and short 
fibers that cannot be removed in the opening department. 
To accomplish this the card must be kept oiled, clean, 
sharp and properly set. The successful superintendent 
insists upon having high grade card grinders, those who 
know their trade with certainty, and can be trusted to 
perform their duties. The expert grinder will grind 



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The Drawing Fram] 



lightly so as not to burr or hook the points of the cloth- 
ing on the dofPer and cylinder. The top flats are ground 
more heavily so as to give the wire a coarser point to 
hold the short fibers and leaf stripped from the cylinder. 
All grinders are supplied with standard gauges so that 
uniform setting of cards is carried on. The dcffer is set 
to cylinder seven-one-thousandths of an inch apart on 
ordinary work. If only long staple or coarse heavy 
staple cotton is used it will be necessary to set them 
farther apart. Top flats, licker in, and feed rolls are 
set to gauge of nine-one-thousandths to eleven-one-thou- 
sandths inch. Heavy laps not over 14 ounces per yard 



156 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

and long draughts (about 95) fast doffer and light sil- 
ver of about 64 grs. per yard are the best rules to follow. 
Doffers and cylinders are stripped often enough to pre- 
vent clothing from becoming clogged with lint, leaf and 
other waste substances. The cans are not left to pack 
too full, as this will strain the sliver. Cards that are 
thus cared for ; that are on properly supported floor and 
free from vibration ; level, all air vents closed ; feed rolls 
properly weighted to prevent laps from being drawn 
between feed rolls faster than their surface speed, laps 
that are driven so as to avoid straining or splitting, will 
make even, clean sliver that can stand or bear the closest 
inspection of the severest critics. The overseer will 
scrutinize each card daily to make sure that each is mak- 
ing a smooth and perfect mark. 

DRAWING FRAMES. 

Modern mills having all the latest improved machin- 
ery and under excellent management usually dispense 
with the railway head, which is a form of drawing frame 
with evener attachment. Work made under the advant- 
ages already described does not require railway heads 
to even it. However, what is said about drawing frames 
in this article can apply with equal force to the care of 
railway heads or methods of operating them. Drawing 
machines appear very simple, and seem so easy to oper- 
ate, that they are often left to take care of themselves, 
and are operated with the poorest help in the mill. 

But the successful superintendent is alert to the needs 
of these often forsaken drawing frames. He treats them 
with as great care as he does the opening machinery. 
In the first place, he places reliable help on them and 
pays well enough to make it an object for them to re- 
main at their post and cultivate the merits of an impor- 
tant work. The drawing machine is more than a draw- 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 



15' 



ing or doubling machine. It is an equalizing or arer- 
affino; machine, and unless it receives the care it deserves 
the object of this process may be entirely defeated and 
deliver the work Avorse than when it received it. These 
machines will do superior work when the front, back, 
and full can stop-motions are kept in good working 
order. Every Saturday they are taken down and thor- 



No 


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No 


(flO Ror)don\ 


No, — Re^ulflf 


Ho. RaryAotTK 


CrS. 


Size 


Stre9(>t^ 


CrS. 


5ize 


S1reo^ 


Crs. 


Size 


STrcQ^tt) 


Crs. 


5ize 


5t(-e9^t^ 


/(,.¥ 


(o0.q% 


3>i.z 


/6 .1 


6/. 7 3 


Jar 














/(..(> 


(oO.-Ht 


3/7 


/<i. 3 


Ui.3'6' 


30. S 














/fc.5 


Go.Ui 


3/ 


U.I 


Sq.Si 


31 














IL,.^ 


59. SI 


3r 


/(,.$ 


5q.^i- 


3Z.S 














ik.S 


(eO.(,l 


3/. 3 


/6.5- 


(cO.ia 1 


30.1 














Ik.S 


(oO.Ul 


3/.Z 


/&.U- 


(aoq% 


313 














lU 


59-51 


3i.^ 


/(..5- 


(eO.Ui 


31 














Ikn- 


(oo.qS 


3/./ 


/6.*/- 


(oo.q$ 


3/7 














^veraqe 


Uo.H-i 


2>IH-(I 




(oo.Ti 


3/.J^ 














UjhTeit 


(>o.9S 


31 




(ol.-]2> 


j>o.r 














Heafi'eir 


5951 


3l.i4- 




59.51 


Ji.% 














UanaTioi) 


/.¥(, 


I.H- 




2 11 


2.3 












StciO'lotJ 


i>0.25 


^/.^ 




6o.25' 


Ji.n 













WetiTHe r hry 



Oversfcr- 
The Yarn Size Report. 



oughly scoured. The steel rolls are kept clean and 
brightly polished to prevent lapping. Five dublings 
into one with draught of no more than five and three 
processes of drawing will give best even results. The 
well-trained hands will never pass single work, and will 
take care to make smooth splicings, and keep the clear- 
ers picked at least every two hours. The speed of front 
rolls should not exceed 400 revolutions per minute to 
insure good work. 

The weighing of finished drawing sliver twice a day 
is of vital importance. This is done on grain scales that 
w^eigh tenths of grain. 

Not less than one yard of sliver from each delivery of 
the last process of drawing is weighed twice a day, and 
the weights of each kind of goods is averaged, recorded 
and filed as shown by sample report. 



158 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

ROVING FRAMES. 

The most important matters the successful superin- 
tendent follows up in connection with these machines 
are the twist, tension, piecing ends, and creeling. The 
twist, he requires should be sufficient to hold stock in- 
tact, and yet leave the goods flexible enough to allow the 
successive processes to draw it well and not break back 
in the creels. 

The tensions are gentle enough to avoid possibility of 
stretching roving. The ends are never taut and move 
with a slight sag. Piecings must be done without mak- 
ing lumps or hard twisted spots or lengths. In creel- 
ing, all single must be removed as well as doublings 
w^henever made. 

The finished rovings are w^eighed freely and a record 
kept similar to that shown by the drawing frame re- 
port. 

SPINNING DEPARTMENT. 

The preceding processes having been carried forth 
under the most favorable methods, a great deal of hard 
w^ork is eliminated from the spinning department. The 
yarn will be smooth, clean, and of even numbers, pro- 
viding that the rolls are kept clean, properly oiled and 
spread. The method of keeping spinning frames in prop- 
er order is to take one frame at a time and set the 
spindles, thread guides, rings, at least once a year. Be- 
sides this the frames are scoured at least twice a year. 
The spinners are required to make smooth piecings, and 
keep frames clean. 

The important matter of production is accomplished 
by keeping every spindle making yarn, and the doffers 
are required to keep the frames doffed rapidly, so that 
the belts are on the tight pulleys the largest possible 
amount of the time. 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 



159 



The keeping of numbers or sizing the yarn receives 
the most careful inspection once a day. Weighings are 
taken out at random, and of samples sent from the card- 



6 cisl)!!)^ De[:)^rtn\ei)t Report. 


f5€Cir\S 


EqcIs 


W^r|o^ 


Cuts 


Yds. 


W(nr(D 
No. 


RerxcirKs 


M-o\ Ib5. 


(£?G0 


^-^^(,(5 


ze" 


5o 


2(0i 


SfnflSh»'i>2-Ciir 


^01. „ 


N 


•• 

tl 


II 


n 






2>^^ H 


tl 




II 


•• 


1 q CO 

1 «+o X 




M-0 „ 


II 


n 


ii 


It 


»4- 




if 1 „ 


•1 


(1 

M 


1 


H 


20J 

ao3 


f5?^rnl)fflJOroKfi 


if 3 11 


•1 


«< 


II 


H 


(cOO 




UoLfi (1 


n 


11 


1 


II 


Vf. 




n 


II 


tl 

n 


n 


II 






II 


II 


11 

11 


It 


«f 






Totfliz5ob „ 


k-zoo 


•1 

II 


II 


(1 






Aver<n^€ 1^0 1 lbs. 


II 

tl 


)i 


II 






'b'taridayd h-oo „ 


II 

n 


n 


II 






ScrfTw^ste 5" „ 


11 

14 


ii 


'( 






Hard a G ,, 


II 

II 


>t 


II 






Yds. oerbeorx 3315*0 


^>\o6 


4,-75 


3:>^5o 






Oversee 


)r^ 

















Slashix(1 Dp:i'ARt.mext Report. 

ing department, and no less than eight bobbins of each 
are weighed. The random size is for comparison and is 
a check on the regular test sent from the carding depart- 
ment. Each skein is also tested to ascertain the average 
strength of the yarn. The whole is tabulated as shown 
by sample report, which is produced in triplicate, one 
copy of which is sent to the superintendent's office, an- 



160 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

other to the overseer of carding, and one is retained and 
placed on file in the spinning department. 

The superintendent insists upon having this style of 
report because it keeps the faculty in touch with all the 
phases of the question and puts a premium upon closest 
keeping of numbers. 

The condition of the weather is stated because this 
affects the number keeping more or less and a record 
of the matter often clears up a tangle in searching the 
file and explains the whys and wherefores or some varia- 
tions. 

SPOOLING^ WARPING AND SLASHING. 

During these processes special attention is given to 
prevent straining the yarn when drawing same from 
bobbins to spools, from spools to beams and from beams 
to loom warps. All the elasticity of the yarn that it 
is possible to save is kept for the looms. At the spoolers, 
great care is exercised to make small and perfect knots. 
These are now made by machines for the purpose, and 
they are kept in perfect working order. At the markers 
all ends are kept straight without variance. 

At the slashers the yarn is given a light but strong 
flexible size that will carry the stock through the looms 
without chafing or being too brittle. 

The slashes are more successfully operated when a 
book is kept containing data complete as above. 

WEAVING DEPARTMENT. 

The successful superintendent makes so much of his 
3^arn preparation departments, and has been so precau- 
tious in regard to removing everything that makes de- 
fective yarn that the weaving of same into cloth is the 
most successful operation sought. 

In this department, as in all other departments, his 
aim to have the best help obtainable. For overseers he 



WORK OF THE SUPERINTENDENT. 161 

has clean, practical men who are with the company to 
stay and take strong interest and deep pride in serving 
the company with every honorable advantage known to 
the art. They are gentlemen of irreprx'^-achable character 
and surround themselves with help that are ambitious 
and make good work. These are the methods inculcated 
by the successful management, and first-class results 
are inevitable. And this applies with special force to 
the weaving departments. Everything that can be done 
to perpetuate high grade, full production, at lowest rea- 
sonable cost has perfect sw^ay. Plenty of light, clean, 
whitened walls, clean water to drink, proper tempera- 
ture, good air, sanitary department orderly, sufficient 
time for help to go home and enjoy a warm dinner — all 
these great advantages are as important to the success- 
ful working of the mill and receive as careful thought 
as do the speed of looms and the picks per inch in the 
cloth. 

Another very important matter is the loom fixing, 
which must be done by tireless, courteous, competent 
loom fixers. To have hustling good men in charge of 
the various sections is the pride of the methodical super- 
intendent. With him these are points that materialize 
and are counted in as valuable assets in producing the 
highest percentage of best selling grades of cotton goods. 
And these goods have the right feel and are their own 
best trade-mark. They become known to the trade as re- 
liable goods is what makes some mills so much more suc- 
cessful than those which plod along carelessly disregard- 
ing some of the most vital requirements herein men- 
tioned. 

Another chief method of this kind of a mill is the 
recognition of meritorious service and promoting men 
from the ranks whenever opportunity offers. This also 



11 



162 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

lends impetus and incentive for the help to excel in their 
work. 

The matter of supplies for the weaving department as 
elsewhere are judiciously chosen, and superior qualities 
are the only goods sought. 

Keeping up reasonable repairs, and replacing anti- 
quated machinery with modern improvements is the suc- 
cessful man's pride. 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



163 



XXIII. 
THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 

SYSTEM FOR EXACTING CORRECT RESULTS 
FROM MINIMUM FORCE. 



T\)( CotToo M'-j-^ (o Cotfot) Rfport we(Ke.,Jri)j 


Orjod 


No 

iijyoire 




r'^^i'ZZ'U \-toU\ 0(5H<i,<) 


To Arr,'., 1 


0.iif, 


Pc.,J, 


Onlfi 


PoD^d) Oijle\ 


''-?''■ 


rb<iit> 


Peu^di 





























































































































































































Good) Dyf c) 


Coodi Oleod^ed 


b^)ppllf^ r?»tfived 


3/i:''i' .^v* ^/i^ Vied or) 


Give (oif of £(ici) lor 


































Me>-cer:xed CooJ> Coir- 






















1 1 


Shfiioi Mtirtfn 




























^ 






o^erserr- 



Cotton Purchase Report. 



Output Record Dye House and 
Bleach ERY. 



As the fiuancial success of a cotton manufacturing 
corporation rests with the treasurer, he is held directly 
responsible for the accounting department and the prop- 
er conducting of its affairs. If he is a resident treas- 
urer, as most of the treasurers of the cotton mills of 
Fall River are, he will have immediate charge and over- 
sight of the company's business. He will have a compe- 
tent superintendent to take full charge of the manufac- 
turing of the goods, and an expert accountant to take 
charge of the accounting in detail. If the treasurer is 
not a resident officer, the local affairs may be under the 
immediate charge of a resident agent or superintendent. 

The chief accountant or the head bookkeeper, so called, 
is held responsible for the routine details. It is his busi- 
ness to follow up, daily, the enormous ingathering of 
fragmentary business documents that come from all de- 



* Published in " The Book-Keeper," October. 1904. 



164 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

partments of the plant, and from all corners of the land. 
The fragmentary documents cover almost every con- 
ceivable subject from a parcel of court plaster to the 
source of a river. 

To the intelligent reader of this magazine it is evi- 
dent that there must be system and a crew of assistants 
.to maintain order out of choas. The competent office 
manager will select his assistants with great care. To 
him they must be known for their integrity, honesty, in- 
dustry, have clean, obliging manners, and be free from 
gossip. They must be sworn in, as it were, to eternally 
protect the company's interest by every fair advantage 
within their means, and not divulge the private matters 
of the clerical court. 

In opening the accounts of an office and starting the 
routine details, the office manager will systematize the 
work, arranging it under general departmental headings 
somewhat upon this line: 

1 Pay Roll. 11 Correspondence. 

2 Purchasing. 12 Engineering. 

3 Receiving. 13 Dye House, Bleachery, Design- 

4 Order and Sales. ing. 

5 Manufacturing. 14 Tenement and Farming. 

6 Shipping. 15 Provision Store. 

7 Bills Receivable and Bills Pay- 16 Cost Finding and Treasurer's 

able. Report. 

8 Stock Account. 17 Auditing. 

9 Salaries and General Expenses, 18 Secret Service. 

Taxes, Insurance, etc. 19 Statistical and Diary. 

10 Bank Account. 

Taking the general departments in the order mention- 
ed, it may prove of interest to follow the details in con- 
nection therewith. In small mills and in other mills 
individually owned, where no attempt is made to have 
an elaborate form of office work, a good accountant may 
do all the work, or he may have one or two clerks to as- 
sist him. 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



165 



In a large corporation doing an extensive business, 
and requiring complete up-to-date methods, it will re- 
quire a large force to perform the work. In this case, 
which we take up and illustrate, a clerk is assigned one 



TbeColtof) M'f6.. Co. Mill ^l AfW^ysicle 
Ctnrdi'Qf beb(nrtn\er)t. Report for erjcli'r)^ \Q 



Oper,\[)(^ bejot. 



5'ize cf Fir)i^h)ecll)r<nwit)^ 



bi'ze of- Ro V I r)^ 



CoTTon 0/>eoec) Ocjfei 



lbs. 



Hoi)t~s R^un 



Stci/Kfaf-r^ Wt 4 Ui I hi. 



" jjet-y'cf 



^roJuct'o, 



Ihs 



jtofjh^cl -fo. 



!>bea(nl MdTTer^ 



W^sle 



5D[o[3lies RgceiVecJ 



ToTq I Mancli 



O 



ci 



'mH 



Ihs. 



f^a^J^oii 



^ucf\les c/QcfTies 



ProJucfTon 



lbs 



P/cheh hz-ohhinns 



Cost he I- Jh. 



Card 



HoiJi-5 Rvn 



Jrpu 



'hhmcjS 



^tohbed -fd. 



Ono P/r/T/noS 



P0//5 Corer-ecf 



5 



yVee^/r, nj 



y^ 



l2)n)^er) /2>o6btnJ 



a 



Oqs 



orerjeer- 



IvEPORT OF Carding Department. 

or more departments to which he devotes his time ex- 
clusively. 

THE PAY ROLL DEPARTMENT. 

This department covers the time keeping. Each de- 
partment of the mill is assigned a time keeper. There 
is no department requiring closer application and more 
accurate reckoning than that which concerns the weekly 
or periodical payment of employee's wages. It vibrates 



166 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

to the farthest hidden corner of the plant, and is to the 
workers as oil is to the machinery. It must be done 
right or there is trouble in the camp. 

Help that are systematically and accurately paid, 
learn to haye confidence in the firm and take pride in 
returning measure for measure. On the other hand, 
help that are obliged to haye errors frequently rectified 
become careless. This stigma becomes noised about 
among all the operatiyes and injures the firm. There- 
fore, the paymaster should haye all the time accurately 
reckoned and so carefully checked as to ayoid errors 
entirely. All amounts should be proyed and no enve- 
lope sealed until it has been checked with the pay roll, 
and contents inspected to see if same corresponds to the 
amount called for on the face of the enyelope. 

Some mills still use the check or card system of pay- 
ing off. That is, each hand is provided with a numbered 
card which must be presented to the paymaster, who 
returns the pay envelope of the corresponding number. 
This makes easy and rapid work for the paymaster, but 
it is a faulty s^^stem and not to be recommended. 

The only correct and proper way by which to pay off, 
is to distribute the money in verified envelopes, as al- 
ready stated, to each hand by personal recognition, and 
new hands thereby become identified. This is the most 
successful method of paying out wages. As a week's 
work is now known by the number of hours employed, 
the best method to follow is to enter each worker's 
time in hours, daily, and to pay at a rate per hour in- 
stead of at a rate per day, excepting where a price is 
fixed for those who work by the piece. 

PURCHASING DEPARTMENT. 

Under this important heading, comes a great question 
of economy. Not all men are good buyers. Careful 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



167 



buying is an art well worth cultivating. Many large 
corporations employ an expert buyer — one who knows 
the wants of cotton mills; is acquainted with the trade 
at large ; keeps in closest touch with market quotations ; 



T})e Cotto!) Mf^.Co. MJlI No. 2 



At H'l^h) Rjver 



^ 



bii)r)i'r)A Sizeof Y^rf); 



S[dooIi'i)6 Of) J Wdrbi'i)^ 



^1^51)11)6 



Ljart) Sh 



ooled 



Cvts Mode 



)Varh 



Weiohf-oj ^ea 



rr\5 



/^rocJ/JcTTon . 



lbs 



ST^rr/j Djed 



L/'r//)Tfst- Oea/r^ />6j 



S/x/Q q Co mhoXJO rl 



Hen vie ir 



72? //o yy 



YotlcTtr'on, 



3/csf)er OorfT Qds 



Ave 



rci f/e 



P 



3ofr^/)r/H^n/y/oSfe Ih 



3f('lnd^i-d 



J/ 



-zi 



2^ 



^ 



5 bee 10 1 Mn tiers 



W^ste 



^^[^[jli'cs Receiygc) 



Total l~iar)ds 



^/ecii) T/)/-eod 



Hovt-S /^UQ 



bi. 



Prodvctloi 



^ 



aTv 



PiTV f^Oll 



Co:^t het- lb- 



S Tbp/ye (■/ 



Report of Spinning Department. 

has tact, and knows just in what proportionate quanti- 
ties to purchase, to give his firm every fair advantage. 

The stock on hand of mill supplies, and of the mill 
provision store (if there is one) is corrected every day 
and constantly before him. It is so arranged and in- 
dexed that the purchaser can tell at a glance what is 
running low and needs ordering. This is observed so 



168 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

well that the plant is never stalled for want of the re- 
quired supplies at the right time. In addition to the 
daily corrected list, he has an indexed and alphabetically 
arranged ledger Avhich gives list of goods purchased, 
price paid, from whom purchased, how shipped and 
whether prepaid. 

The expert buyer is very explicit in giving shipping 
directions. When not practicable to send sample of 
goods wanted he is minute in giving dimensions, styles, 
quantities and every possible information that can lead 
to a prompt and correct filling of the order without fur- 
ther correspondence. To have this work done as di- 
rected, means the most economical system that can be 
adopted by the mills that are always in hot water about 
their purchasing department. 

For the w ant of a perfect method of buying, the writer 
has known of mills getting out of coal, short of cotton, 
have machinery waiting for supplies, and any amount 
of sour feelings caused by mistakes, and delayed goods, 
all of which a tactful buyer can avoid. In this way 
tracers, telegrams, etc., looking for belated goods, are 
dispensed with. 

This kind of a man, also, w^hen buying special supplies 
not for the general stock but which is for a particular 
department of, perhaps, Mill No. 7, has the goods come 
with an index letter or number on the parcel, case, or 
tag, which indicates its proper place and promptest de- 
livery. 

The ordinary buying of supplies of most mills, how- 
ever, is done by the local agent or when there is no agent, 
by the superintendent. Heavy supplies, like coal, cot- 
ton, etc., are most always purchased by the treasurer, 
whether he is a local resident, or located away in a large 
city to keep in closer touch with the trade conditions. 
In any event, the supplies should be purchased under the 
most favorable methods indicated. 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



169 



TyCc> or) M--6 Co MiiiNo 
Cost of Ma^D-j'tnctDVir)^ ^ror)ch) e()di'r)f i^ 


b€|0^rt(Aer)1fll Cost 


Prod. 


L^nborCoit 


5u[:. 


olies 


Oih 


Rel^^iVs 


Tot^lCcst 


5pecioi 
MnfTefS 


beo^fTn\er)r 


lbs. 


Roll 


Per 
lb 


Mu 


Pet- 
lb. 


Ydue 


lb. 


Roll 


PeK 
lb. 


k^. 


Per 

Ip. 


ch)n>edni)d3old 


Cord in a 
























Ycir^s P>jrc}). 


f^mi "yba. 
























Mo. Ib5.(a> $ 




























5 hoo/inn 


























nuththn 


























Th//'ifr'nn 


























5 / CI shin n 
























Yt7rn> 5o)c) 


/^hayy^n Of) 
























No. lbs. ^ % 


yye^y/nn 


























C/otfr noofr\ 


























fblecicherw 


























J^s/e HOxJSe 




















































Clo-m Co 5-r 


ciotr 






















Rer^orKS 


Card in a 


























Mdii ^hci. 


























r- 1 J 

r/-an\ e u 


























Shoo/mq 


























Warhi^n/q 


























TyVi sTinn 


























o/aihihn 


























jbtoW?n //) 


























WearMri ' 


























C/oT^ r^oorr^ 


























fb/eache-f-w 


























Dye Movse 


























Oe^mina 


























/?)eit ci'nc/Roil Sho^ 


























Ucihn and )Ycifch 


























^Re^hciiVi 


























f^o'y/ei- 


























Fuel 


























Fre/oht err. 


























L,r,ht 


























yy^i/'e^ 


























Toxes 


























Iniuhi-inceS 


























Sit/ort'es 


























(rtf/Jentnf) 


























}Jo(lniil-fTe</ £%b<iOi( 


J 

























Cost of Manufacturing Kecord. 



170 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

RECEIVING DEPARTMENT. 

Taking the departments in their order as nearly as 
practicable the receiving department naturally follows. 

Every up-to-date office will have a Receiving book in 
which a daily record of all articles received are entered 
with all particulars appertaining thereto. The item as 
entered should state precisely as to whether a box, bale, 
case, bag, bundle, etc., has been received, via freight, 
mail or express, prepaid or not prepaid, followed by in- 
voice and specifications of contents, and also enter the 
index letter or number to show in which department it 
belongs : to general stock, or to special department. 

All these goods are entered as they arrive. The cot- 
ton and coal is weighed, all boxes and such things are 
opened and their contents counted or Aveighed, as the 
cases may be, also where and who from. Then the next 
day the previous day's entering of goods received are 
sorted out and transferred to their respective pages in 
the perpetual loose leaf ledger of the purchasing agent, 
as already illustrated. Both books should have a well 
kept-up index. 

The Daily Receiving book is also posted for another 
very important reason. That is to check the express, 
freight and cost bills. When these bills arrive, a blue 
check mark is made at each item to show that trans- 
portation charges have been paid. A red check mark 
indicates that the cost of the goods is paid. 

The receiver of the goods having been provided with 
a copy of the purchasers' order sheets accompanied with 
instructions as to where they belong, he knows just 
where to deliver them and forthwith sees that they are 
properly distributed and vouched for. As the purchaser 
has properly ordered the supplies, the same give entire 
satisfaction to the users. Thus this method avoids mis- 
understandings, prevents confusion, and the corporation 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



171 



saves perhaps thousands of dollars aunuall}^ over the 
salary paid an expert buyer. 

One more virtue must be attributed to the wise buyer. 
He cannot be bribed and Avill purchase where he can se- 



Tl)e Ccttbf) Mfp.Co. Mill Mo.3 At fbrooKSi'de 


Sro(K0i)Hn9d 


Operc\T\oT) 


ClotT)" Wover) 


ProdDCtl'or) 


Fill 


Enti-fl 


Looms 
Rdp) 


L00IT\5 


C^Uie o[ 5to|Df)i()^ 


Style 


R'cKs 


Yds. 


C^jts 


YcirJs 




^0 

ofFull 

Pro cluf- 
tfon. 










































































































































































bbecKil M^ers 


Wnste 


iDbblies RecfiVed 


Total H<nr)(Js 


>f^A/6 " Ihs 




HoDi-5 Run 






f^ro<JuclTor) 






Pay 1^01 1 


/ 




Cat f:)ef lb. 






S loeeJ o-f- 2-oorr^5 


y/eehinn6 




5eroo(/s IniheeTcff 


I ^j/ 




Neu) We avers 






Yieavers LeiTz-omn 







Keport of Weaving Departmext. 

cure what his firm needs most regardless of any private 
consideration that may be open to him. 

A sample page of a properly kept Keceiving book is 
shown (see Form 10). 

ORDER AND SALES DEPARTMENT. 

Having a first-class plant with a capable organiza- 



172 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

tion, and a reputation for producing best selling quali- 
ties, it goes Avithout saying that the mills under this man- 
agement will be flooded with orders. 

As the prosperity and progress of the plant depends 
entirely upon a liberal demand for its goods, it is of the 
utmost importance that accepted orders be properly 
filled, packed and shipped with swiftest dispatch known 
to the trade. All orders should be entered in a book, 
leaving room for entering shipments on account, and the 
whole indexed so that any order can be found instantly. 

The Order department may also be called the Sales 
department. One includes the other, excepting that 
goods ordered may not always be sold. Some orders 
may be cancelled, or goods may be returned because not 
made according to sample. 

MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT. 

The superintendent will keep in closest touch with 
the order department, follow up the organization of the 
goods, assign each order to the mill or department best 
adapted to fill it, provide samples, with instructions com- 
plete in writing, and by his system of daily reports as 
shown herewith, he will know just how the plant stands 
from day to day as regard qualities, quantities and the 
economy maintained throughout the entire system of 
mills under his charge. The accompanying forms of re- 
port are adjustable and can be used for daily, weekly 
or monthly. If used daily the same form can be taken 
for averaging any period. 

SHIPPING DEPARTMENT. 

The office should maintain a book used exclusively 
for entering all shipments. Each item to contain in- 
voice complete, how shipped, marks on packages, etc., 
and properly indexed. The invoice clerk of the packing 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



173 



department will make out his invoices in triplicate. 
One to be retained on file, one to follow the goods, and 
one for the main office of the plant. 



i)e Cottof) Mfo.Co. MrilNo.3At rbrooKsi'de 
C of^ RoonN. Re[Dort-pt)r ei)di'r)6 )Q 


W^ft?bw>Vir)| 


^'1 


Clou ^^'^■ 


Y^r-ds per lb. 


Q^jolity of Goods 


Clot^ Q)nled 


To be 


Re- 


^1 


3tyle 


QdU 


Xebt 


Heqv- 
Test 


Av{. 




Ci'l 


1 


rcioi 


Cyts 


YcirJs 


R>DI)c)s 


Dnieb 


































































































































































































































5[5ecinl Matters 


Wnste 


Swoohes Received 


Toti?/ Maodi 


5/cihher Wosfe 




P/r/rs Covnied 


jbvjfPoon^ 




5pC0r)cJs 


Poos 




/-/^toesjes ReJDaitecl 


P)ronen Peeds 




Pciy poll 


YiotT) oyif- I' 




f 








Reeds Thi-oyrrs ovi- 






J 











Report q>¥ Cloth Room. 

Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the value 
of properly packing the goods for shipment. 

BILLS RECEIVABLE AND BILLS PAYABLE. 

The w^ell-governed office never lapses. Bills payable 
are promptly paid, and bills receivable are promptly 
presented. The card system of "following up" these 
matters preclude the possibility of overlooking bills 
needing settlement. In paying bills payable the best 



174 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

method is not to send the original bill with the check. 
Only send a copy of the bill and retain the original for 
permanent reference. The reason for so doing is that 
in case the original bill became lost in the mails, the 
office would still have complete data on which to cover 
payment. And if the payee did not return receipted bill 
the original form of the transaction would be lost to the 
office. This data is often valuable to an office desiring 
to repeat a similar transaction, or for ]3ossible legal 
evidence. 

STOCK ACCOUNT. 

The stock account book, unless it contains figures that 
tell anywhere near the truth, is a source of great per- 
plexity to the management. The stock takers should 
be trained to do their work with great faithfulness. It 
is unwise to over or under-estimate. So far as practic- 
able the actual amounts should be ascertained. When 
not practicable to get at actual amounts, a good judge 
can strike an average that will be within reasonable 
limit. The time to take stock is not on a holida}^ or at 
any time when a man is likely to hasten unduly so as 
to get away. The best time to take stock as accurately 
as practicable is to assign a time that the men would 
be at their regular work if they were not stock taking. 

As the circulating stock, in a well-balanced mill, is 
much the same from time to time, if a perpetual stock 
sheet is kept as should be, an instantaneous stock tak- 
ing can be taken daily, and the periodical stock taking 
will serve to prove the work and correct errors. 

THE SALARY LIST AND GENERAL EXPENSES. 

This department includes taxes, insurance, freight 
and sundry expenses which are not imputed to the labor 
cost sheets. A ledger is kept for this purpose, and is 
in charge of a confidential clerk. 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



175 



The salary list covers salaries of the treasurer, super- 
intendent, agent, and the accountant, etc. 

THE BANK ACCOUNT. 

This department does not require comment, as the 

Tl)e Coltor) Mf6 Co Mill No. i At o^<ie;^ 



W<n ^te froPN Ca rdi'f){» bej^T 



W(n!>te-(rDn\Wfnvi>)^ bej^t 



IWrbmJf^ 



Total W^ste 



Qyciqnioq 



/hj. 



t 



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J±±_ 



fbhftsiei af)c) ti'ei 



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n^rpt^en rbobhi'rsi 



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W^srefn)P\5[3^.be|3 



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vj2)earr\ Heads 



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loto I Hands /^/y /f<?// / 



L/ijrJ /!)TjT 



Kepoet of Waste Department. 



usual methods are sufficient for all purposes and well 
known to the ordinary trained accountant. 



CORRESPONDENCE. 



This includes all transmitted messages whether by 
telephone, telegraph, mail or express, all of which should 
be copied in a loose leaf copying book, and the corres- 



176 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

pondening answers inserted on the opposite pages. 
The advantages of this method are obvious to the conver- 
sant business man. Having the answer to each business 
letter immediately on the opposite page, enables one to 
follow the progressive correspondence upon the subject 
with rapidity. 

ENGINEERING. 

The records of this department include plans, speci- 
fications, quotations, costs of buildings, complete data 
indicating where hydrants, stand pipes, valves, boun- 
dary lines, water rights, etc., are located. Charts, draw- 
ings, and maps, etc., are all properly filed, and the card 
index employed to instantl}^ locate everything connected 
therewith. For the want of such a s^^stem much valua- 
ble time, and money has been lost in probing around to 
locate things. 

List of patterns, with all machinery specifications 
should also become recorded. This can be carried along 
to include speeds, horse powers, etc., and rendered as 
valuable as desired. Condition of buildings, and ma- 
chinery in general, what needs immediate repairing 
should also be kept before the house in the form of week- 
ly reports therefrom. 

DYE HOUSE^ BLEACHERY AND DESIGNING. 

As this department is a very costly one to the colored 
goods plant, a careful account of all dye stuffs, with data 
complete concerning styles, designs, formulas, samples, 
costs, etc., is invaluable to the management. 

These particulars should be arranged in sample 
book forms accompanied by data in full concerning or- 
ganization of each sample. 

TENEMENTS, RENTS AND FARMING. 

The majority of cotton mills have tenements, and it is 
the pride of the officials to maintain, so far as possible, 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



177 



a model village for their employees. The houses are in 
charge of a carpenter who keeps them in excellent repair 
and supervises the premises. He keeps in close touch 
with the office and provides the clerk who keeps the tene- 



Tr)e Cottor) Mf^ Co. Mill No. 2 At Pen^ 
Mcnster Mecl)(nr)rc'b Re|oort"fx)r er)clrr)^ 



1 



Repair Acco-or)"!" 



Power- Record 



CarJ/ho hepT. Laho r Cgjf- $ 



Re/.r^. 



f^M.ofMain5hi}Jr^ec^Dited 



^t^'ooh^ 



It /r)c//'ciiTeJ 



r/eayi^ 



^ 



Concl/TTon of yVcJtph Svhhiy 



Cent 



Total Time Rv 



^ 



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ecio I 



^ 



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a^ 



tf Tjurs hy yyaTet a /one 



New To oh Made 



PVooJ Cor,svn\e<J 



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Rehqi fed <t 



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5heci'<n I Matters 



-!>i)b[3lie!> Received 



Tol?}l Hands p£iy Roff ^ 



CorjdifTon o'f tyfa/r, bn'yej 



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JJ/7\ 



^ 



y l^o/le/-s 



E 



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AuTdrr\aTTc Ya/yes 



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♦ i3 



cirrus 



M'aSt^'- Mecf^qr^ t( 



Keceiving Book of Receiving Department. 

ment books with data in full concerning the actual con- 
dition of the propertj^ The clerk will not only keep 
a record of rents collected, but will make notes of what 
repairs have been done and the date. Cases of sickness, 
distress, etc., are all kept on record in the tenemnt 
book. 

Many mills not only own tenements, but have vast 
12 



178 THE MANAGEMENT OP COTTON MILLS. 

areas of real estate, and in several places the company 
maintains a farm. In this case a farming account is 
kept, which relates what crops are raised, quantities, 
costs, etc. The farm is placed in charge of a practical 
farmer who gives a careful account of his stewardship. 
Potatoes and such things that are raised are sold at the 
mill store. The hay that is grown is to feed the horses 
of which a large company will have several pairs to do 
local trucking from mill to mill, and to and from the 
railroad. The modern mill, however, is approaching the 
time when all trucking by horses will be a thing of the 
past. Most of it will be done by the overhead single 
rail system. The yard trucking accounts are kept sepa- 
rate from the farming account. 

THE PROVISION STORE DEPARTMENT. 

Many mills that maintain the factory village system, 
also have a "factory store" so-called, where household 
goods complete can be purchased at slightly reduced 
rates. This department will be managed by a compe- 
tent storekeeper. The main office of the mill provides 
a clerk to keep the books who is responsible to the chief 
accountant. The purchasing is done by the regular mill 
buj^er. 

COST FINDING. 

The cost finding department is the most important and 
delicate work of the office. This work should be assigned 
to a clerk who can figure very closely, and is deeply 
interested in the art of finding the exact cost of each 
kind of goods. 

To find the average cost in an ordinary mill where 
only one line of goods, or several kinds that are similar 
in character are made the accompanying style of cost 
sheet answers the purpose completely. The value of 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 



179 



this style of cost sheet is two-fold. The upper half of it 
is devoted to the cost of each department which is based 
upon their individual production. This places a prem- 



Receivii)6 f«5ooK. 


bale 


besTiV 
frrTo!)/ 


Mercl)nr)d i se 
Wl)on\ (nr)d wh^re-|Von\ 


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Hc\\\ 


Tptinxelc. 


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Aj^i- 


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Flojjh- TijeWesTetoSvk Co.- Cf)i}^(io, hi. 


Rail 








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joohhis U1200 2000 Jt^ioo"^ 


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( Foh /i^f/yerf) 











Receiving Book of Receivinc; Depaetment. 

ium upon departmental effort. That is, if a depart- 
ment can keep ahead of the succeeding department it is 
not fair to hamper its progress and base the costs on the 
basis of finished goods. For example, the spinning de- 
partment might secure a week's production of 50,000 
pounds, while the weaving department might secure only 
40,000 pounds of cloth. If this condition is permanent 
yarn could be sold or more looms added to advantage. 
The second portion of the report is devoted to the 



180 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

cost of the finished goods entirely and gives the aver- 
age cost only. For a plain goods cotton mill making 
only one kind of cloth this report will answer the true 
purpose of cost finding. But with the addition of sev- 
eral lines of plain goods, or with the fancy goods mill 
the exact cost findin"^ becomes exceedingly delicate and 
complicated. 

AUDITING DEPARTMENT. 

This branch of the work, although connected with the 
business is not controlled by the chief accountant. There 
should be auditors. One appointed by the directors to 
go over the books semi-annually. Another is appointed 
by the treasurer to audit the office books quarterly. One 
proceeds, as the directors desire and the other works 
along the line of the treasurer's direction, and the two 
work independently of each other, and together they pro- 
tect the interests of the company. One is a check on 
the other. When an auditor arrives he takes full charge 
of the office, and safe vaults; private drawers are all 
turned over to him, and every office hand from the chief 
accountant down must do his bidding and give him the 
right-of-way. 

SECRET SERVICE. 

This department, often resorted to, is to ferret out 
tangles and prove suspicious characters. There might 
be several secret service workers in the mill at one time 
and no one suspect their presence. They perform ser- 
vice for the directors, treasurer, superintendent, ac- 
countant, and it can be carried on indefinitely. The 
value of this service in some cases is obvious to the busi- 
ness man. 

STATISTICAL AND DIARY. 

All books having been balanced, and audited, now en- 
ter upon a permanent record for future reference. 



THE COTTON MILL OFFICE. 181 

A journal of statistics can now be opened and kept 
that may reduce researches to a minimum. Such ques- 
tions as ''What did our cloth cost live years ago? What 
is it costing us to spool our yarn? When was it that the 
water ran four feet over the dam?'' All the questions 
are promptly accessible in the statistical book where all 
periodical averages are compiled and tabulated in proper 
order. 

In connection with this department a diary book is 
kept. The importance of keeping a diary of chief events, 
in the mill oftice is of more importance than is usually 
appreciated. It answers many tangled questions and is 
of much aid in legal proceedings. Such questions as 
these are answered: ^'When did the engine break down 
in Number 1 mill?'' ^'W^hen and.w^hy did the^ weavers' 
strike in- 1902?" "feV'^iM%^s%ff%S^i^a^^^' 
plete concerning each event. It often happens that the 
treasurer wants such information speedily, and the 
bright accountant can, by prudent foresight, satisfy the 
most fastidious. 

To the uninitiated this system may seem very com- 
plicated, and it may seem complicated even to the mill 
office making no pretension at keeping a fine system of 
accounting. However, upon examining closely, it will 
be found much less complicated than the confusion 
which arises from a disorderly kept ofiice. About the 
same information must be ascertained in either case 
concerning all the departments, and in the one case a 
system of order is kept up and indexed which makes re- 
search and summary work vastly easier. In the other 
case, where order is not followed, a tangled mass of ac- 
counts must be unravelled to find valuable information, 
and the cost of the better system is more than off -set by 
being able to get more accurate costs to make sale prices, 
less time spent in researches, much saving of correspond- 



182 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

ence, less waiting and mistakes in the supply depart- 
ment, and, on the whole, the corporation enjoys an un- 
excelled reputation for making goods under the most 
economical basis, and of which the market is never over- 
stocked. A well managed accounting office is to the cor- 
poration as the rising of the sun is to the globe — both 
spread their radiance upon the markets of the world. 



THE BURROUGHS' MACHINE. 183 

XXIV. 

THE BURROUGHS' ADDING AND LISTING MACHINE, 

ECONOMY IN THE OFFICE. 

While many managers of cotton mills are severely 
exacting in regard to curtailing unnecessary expenses in 
the manufacturing processes, it is appalling to observe 
the needless cost with which the routine work of many 
accounting rooms is carried forth. Speed and automatic 
machinery are as important here as in any other depart- 
ment of a manufactory. Yet it is often noticed by those 
well qualified to judge, that a vast amount of hard work, 
such as adding and listing, is done by head and hand, 
instead of employing modern methods of accomplishing 
them. And because the methods are not improved, 
thousands of small offices and as many large accounting 
rooms employ from one or two to scores of tired clerks 
doing work by head and hand that could be dispensed 
with. This vast army of extra office workers are re- 
tained from year to year at a tremendous drain on the 
profits of a plant. 

The author of this book on Economy in Cotton Mills, 
would come far short of doing his dut}-, if he did not 
devote a chapter to the greatest office invention of the 
age, viz : The Burroughs Adding and Listing Machine. 
To be without one or more of these machines in an office, 
is like being without typewriters, and worse. The Bur- 
roughs Adding Machine pays for itself in a short time 
by the saving it brings about, and becomes a dividend 
earner for the company. This is because with it a man 
can do the work of several men in less time, and much 
more neatly, and can guarantee accurate results. Take 
the matter of tabulating or listing and adding summary 



184 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

columns, such as making up cash, shipments; giving 
weight, yardage or pounds, all this is reduced to sim- 
plicit}^ itself. This machine is not limited to column 
Avork, but can also perform all the routine mathematical 
problems of the office more swiftly than can be done by 
head and hand. The results are self-proving and posi- 
tively accurate. There are other advantages too numer- 
ous to deal with in a small chapter like this. Tired 
clerks, by the old-time methods, are apt to make and do 
make costly errors. The man who operates a Bur- 
roughs Adding and Listing Machine never becomes 
brain weary. His faculties remain fresh and open for 
other business. The machine takes the burden and 
takes away the drudgery of clerical work. And where 
less help is employed, there is a chain of economj^ which 
enters into the problem — it takes less office room; less 
office furniture, less capital tied up; less insurance to 
carr}^; less wear and tear, etc. 

This wonderful office help is recommended to every 
manager who desires to increase the earning power of 
his plant. On the following pages are illustrated several 
different forms showing the work which is being done in 
some of the leading establishments of the land. 

These need no special explanation ; because they speak 
for themselves: 



THE BURROUGHS' MACHINE. 



185 



/^^/ 







^i?nccr 



L.INSSED eiL. 



90iX~ 



: K'D jij^ 

sc mMI-^ 



OSOER PCOD 



oriCiS si.'P'D 



otnOes no 

CONTRACT t». 



SHIPPING MARK «:^ 



\CT. SLIP t«3. 



REFER ONLY TO INVOICE NUMBER 



R AW 

BOILED 

KELLOGG VARNISH OIL 

HE AVY BODIED BOILED 

WHIT E HEAVY BODIED BOILED 

SUPERIOR 

BLEAC HED 

AGED RAW 



^ 



KELLOGG D OUBLE BOILED 
OIL CAK E 
OIL MEAL 



/f/^<r' iM:x:>C //^ 



^-\ 



186 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 




10 

10 4 

10 8 

10 5 



9 ?' 

a 2' 
10 9' 
10 5' 
I 07 » 
10 6 



1 0- 9 
1 2' 



9 3' 
6 4' 
5 0* 
10 3 
• 7 
4 5 
10 6' 
9 5' 



10 3' 

108=' 

9 6 



13 5 
1 7 

9 6' 
10 6 

5 6 



loVrAiLEp YJM>o«oe 6y gftii^ .^Wf?^ 



8 4» 

103 

e 6 



118' 
10 3' 



a 6^ 

9 d» 
110' 
10 6 
10 6^ 
10 8 



10 3 
107 
_ 1.0.2'-. 
10 4 
86 
1 2' 
103 
1 2 = 

5 9 
10 8 

9 1' 
10 6' 
10 6 
1 6" 
103 

8 4' 

52 

67 

6 8 
8 2* 

106 



10 0' 
7 2 
4 7 

90 

lo:?* 

10 5' 
10 0^ 
10 5' 
1 7» 
1 01» 
.10 6' 
10 7' 
99- 

10 4 

1 4» 

1 l'2' 

10 3 

53» 

57 

106* 

82' 



108» 

108 

101' 

109 

105' 

10 2' 

10 5' 

101' 

XCLfi_. 

1 03» 

S8» 
102' 

'3 1» 

73 . 
103* 
10 4' 

6 1 
■5 5 
1 p3_ 
1 C 7 ' 
108 
1 04> 

8 2 
10 3^ 
10 6' 
1 4' 



€^ 



aSS-a-rtkL 2i5 4 4 * 2,580'* £1546»'* 2;566'* ^589'* 2i558»- 21578* 2;581»* 2i591** 






APR 11 1905 



SHIPPED 



THE BURROUGHS' MACHINE. 



187 









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SOUGHT 


°' Cabarrus Cotton 


(T^tlis, 








MANUFACTURERS OF 






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188 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 









NEWBERRY. S.C ^M/>i(>^^ \J 19(v/~~~-- 


Invoice of Goods Consigned by THE NEWBERRY COTTON MILLS 




COLLINS & COMPANY 




112 WORTH STREET. 


NEW YORK 


MARKS NUMBERS 


1 
PIECES DESCRIPTION POUNDS 


YARDS 


^ 


5 1.6 7 


-J: 
1 


?1c^s''^yv..<:.zi.c^ ^J^ 


38 5 


1-1.0 7 


8 


10 




3,7 8 


11.8 


^v 


9 


1 




3.8 5 


11.0 5 




7 


1 




3.9 5 


11.2 6 




1 


10 




3,8 9 


11.07 




3 


1 




3.7 9 


11.7 5 




3 


1 




3.6 4 


11.3 5 




4 


10 




38 3 


11.0 8 




5 
6 


1 




3,8 3 


11.0 6 




10 




3.6 3 


10.5 2 




7 


lb 




38 7 


11.0 4 




8 


1 




37 7 


10.8 8 




9 


10 




3.7 6 


11.7 6 




8 


10 




3.6 7 


10.6 2 




1 


10 




3.8 4 


11.06 




2 


1 




3.8 7 


11.0 7 




3 


10 




38 1 


11.10 




4 


10 




3,7 5 


10.8 5 




5 


10 




3.7 5 


10.8 4 




6 


10 




3.7 


1 0.9 7 




7 


10 




373 


.1 O.S 9 




8 


10 




3.8 1 


11.1 3 




9 


10 




3.6 1 


10.4 5 




9 


10 




37 5 


10.94 




1 


1 ' 


3.7 5 


11.0 7 




S 


10? 


3.8 3 


11.03 




•^ 

t 

g 


10 
10 

loi 

1 


3.8 4 
3 8 3 
3.8 3 
3.7 5 


10.8 2 
11.0 5 

10.9 5 
10.9 4 




7 
8 
9 
3.0 
1 
2 
3 


10 
10 
10 
1 
10 
10 
10 




3.8 4 
372 
36 2 
35 5 
3 8 
3.8 5 
364 
3.8 8 
38 


1 1.0 8 
11.7 9 
10.6 3 
11.3 5 
10.9 2 
11.0 6 
11.5 2 




4 


10 
10 




11.0 8 
10.9 7 






3 9 O'" 




147.3 6* 


4 3 1.8 7^^ 


iv.. 


• 




d^ a^zA^y 







THE BURROUGHS' MACHINE. 



189 



Via IdriyU 

Ship to (i/4>^>^iel<<'<^4<f- J Co 




Marks 4^( 

Case No. ^ 

si,u yt^yyo. 

Order ^ j/^A^. . 

P. O. No ^^ 

Description -^(f)^' '^,fJ'/^>t^ 

Light . 

Dark 

Peg Blotch 
Fold 
Ticket 
Assortment 




190 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 







;-'=^ 



PACKING VOUCHER. 

COULTER & LOWRYCO. 



GREENSBORO, N. C. 



When Ch&rged 
*/l7 1 90S 

Via Red Llns Steamers 
Liverpool 



5 9. G, 
c T. 0, C 
'• -' 



3 7 0, G 
4,5.5 



Bale 
_Plece3 in Case Cross WelghC 



Not ^_i_- ,^ 



«*h«n ahtoovd 



LAdaar Folio 



OrdwNo.,' 

2000 



Day Book No. _ 

3 

C^led by 

Jones 



Takon by 

Smith 



Cheokad by 

WilliEc.s 

O K'd by 



R. Book No. 



THE BURROUGHS' MACHINE. 



191 









TRIAL BALANCE 








iirnns 


i,!;r;-.!rs 


111 Hirs 


Cl'UMTS 


M'KITS 


CKEDITS 






« 


1 6, 6 9. 7 3 


19,8 8 63 7 * 


4 7, 8 5 a 5 1 


5 7, 2 2 a 8 1 * 




66554 


4 5 6.07 


6 6. 4 


5 0.0 


5 5 Q 5 3 


3 5 5 




6 0. 5 5 


3, 5 5 5 5 


7 3. 


3 4.00 


6 6 0. 5 3 


3 5 Q 5 




5 0.53 


7 7 O 3 


1 54 


4560 


60530 


3 4. 5 




5 5 5. 5 3 


4 6. 4 4 


3500 


4.5 ■ 


6 05 3 


3550 




4 5 4. 


1 4 O 5 


2 4.40 


1200 


6 55 


3555 




3 4.5 5 


1 3, Q 5 5 


5 6 6 


3 5 5 


4 66 


35Q60 




3 4 5. 3 2 


2Q5 


35500 


4600 


150 5 


2 0, 5 7 7 7 




5 0.4 


4 550 


3500 


4.5 5 


70550 


4 67 




6 6 5. 4 


4 56 


5Q4 3 


4 66 6 


1 4 8. 


7503 




54300 


3 5 0. 5 


4 3 7 9 


1 3lOO 


7O5 


12 5 5 




6 6 4. 


3 5 5 6 


9 7 7 6 


9Q76 


1 2i04a50 


4 5600 




7. 6 4 


4 4 6 6 6 


9 75 


51,79 


5 6 6 


5 6 Q 7 




7 6. 4 


556 


8 8 7 5 


1 3.7 8 


8. 6 4. C 


57Q70 




6^65 4.00 


4 50 


96600 


4Q57 


7 5 3. 


4.6 6 




6 5 00 


6 531 . 


1 8 0. 


3 4.0 




5675 




6O0 


5 570 


2 7 7 5 


126 9 




466 




5.0 




5 05 3 


4 66 


5^0 0.0 






6 6. 4 


52 5 


66530 


4.5 6 


60500 


3550 




6 0.5 


4.4 


66i53 


4606 


1, 4 4 4. 


4 4 560 




6 5.4 


4 56 


5 


4566 


40320 


3 5 Q 6 






4 50 


60530 


3 50 5 


1,6 5 50 


8 4 




654 


4 550 


60530 


4600 


1, 7 4. 5 


4660 




5 00 




6 




1 6500 


5600 




6 54 




60530 


4506 


4 7 4 2 


6555 






4606 


60640 


4660 


4 6 7 


4600 




6 5 4. 


4 566 


6553 


4560 


2 4 4.0 


575 




8 000 


4.5 5 


6 5 4 


4.0 6 


6O0 


1225 




70&4 


4.5 5 


70640 


4 506 


6 4 4. 


4660 




7 0.5 


4.3 1 


1 3 Q 4 


2 4.50 


30530 




. 


76 


4O6 


1 3040 


9 7. 4 








70d40 


55 5 


1 3 O 4 


6a90 


9 9, 9 8 9. 4 2 


8 3,0 7 9.1 5 * 




76 




9 50 


5 70 7 








5553 




70640 


577 








6 04 




6 53 


4 0.5 6 








6 53 


4.6 6 


5 4.40 


40660 








6 5 


4 5 6 


1 0, 4 5 O 


3 5O6O0 








10 7 6 


566 


6 5 3 


4 06 








1 2 2. 2 


2 34 


5 4. 3 


4 506 








1 1 3. 3 


2 30 4 


5 4. 3 


2 4.05 








3 50 


4 60 6 


70640 


4 506 








3O5 


4 50 6 


5 4. 3 


3 50 5 








4 4 4. 5 


5 6.0 9 


6 05 3 


4 56 6 








1 2 3. 


1330 


6 05 4 


30560 








12 4 11 


1260 


6 500 


500 








3 55 


4.5 6 


6 6 5 4 


4660 








60 


4 50 5 


5 0. 


4 525 






L_'-^ . 


16^0 6 9.7 3 


19, 88637* 


4 7. 8 5 a 5 1 


5 7, 3 2 O 8 1 * 







192 



THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



CASH RECEIVED. 



CD 
00 



Q 



ci 



(^ 



Bdi son-Moore Mfg Co Sedalla 

Burroughs Adding Maoblns Co St Louia 

Blllott-Fisher Co " 

Barr Dry Goode Co , " 

R A Doe Go 

S H Smith Mfg Co 

Olds Motor Works 

Bridgeport Trust Co 

Banic of Kentuolty 

CCC&StLRRCo 

Foreman Bros BanKiag Co 

Braokett Hardware Go 

Peofc-Hlll Furr.itirre Co 

Ohio Rubber Co 

Ohas B Ox Ueroanllle Co 

Kss lox Mfg Co 

Parfee 0a%'l8 & Co 

Chicago City Ry Co 

Stone Bros Hardware Co 

National Park Bank; 

Thomas ForniaE Co 

Solvay pTooess Co 

Ginolnnatl Gas & Sieotric Co Clnolnnati 

Canadian Bank of Cotnaieroe Windsor 

Copper Queen Cons Mining Co BlsDee 

Union City National Bans Union City 

Green Green & Co Dayton 

Cincinnati Glass & CrooKery Co Clnolmif 

Vm T Johnson Co " 

Euclid Ave National Banic 

Leslie J Lowe 

Randolph Peokham 

G R & I R R Co 

C & N W R H Co 

Thaddeus T Smith 



Uaoon 

East St Louis 

Detroit 

Bridgeport 

Louisville 

Clncionatl 

Chicago 

Pstoskey 

Chloago 

Cleveland 

Jopim 

Roefeeeter 

Detroit 

Cbloago 

Detroit 

Kew Yoric 

Delray 

Detroit 



Clevel 
Detrr 
Nla 
Or 

r 



Date >^*» 30 


1902, 


SiaU) Iv€»JpT \ 


CHEt-K 


Mo 


2 3.50 




3 5 5. 




5Q00 




2500 




8 5.25 




3 3 7 5 


Ml ah 


3 7 5.0 


Conn 


3 5 5lOO 


Ky 


2 5,00 


Ohio 


1 aoo 


111 


1 &6 


Mi oh 


10.0 


111 


1200 


Ohio 


3200 


Mo 


4.3 


K Y 


7.7 5 


Mich 


5.7 5 


111 


1,C 5 67 



1 Kv.'luuiji'- I rhgfi. 



2 3.2S 
6 7. 7 5 
4 5.6 7 
3.3 1 
1.3 5 
-I 3.58 



324 5 
3S53 



3,iea7 3* 



THE RrRKOrrxHS imachink. 



193 



Mti:>€iao 



.NJew Y r.< Carpet Co 
Q),//\ < f. ;;///,./ 'i, New 






T 



r//^':^U..J,.w^-i5.. 



y/;,/,!,/, r./:r f^,- '(:,.,„f,.e.,:/? i^/,/, yy,,- :J,.,/f/o' 



Ma; 







1, -J 2 0. 3 
4, C 3 C. 4 5 

1 3 2. 2 

3 C ?. 3 6 

2 2 5. 5 7 

4 6 6. 6 




1.4 8 
6.6 

2.1 4 

3.9 3 
5. £ 9 
I.''- e 
■: . - 3 




X,- 2 5. b b 
6 2 '^. 9 -? 

1 e 3. 'i 3 

"..,6 2 1.5 '7 




7. 9 5 


'44, 


1 3, 5 7 4. 6 9 * 
• 54 1.9 1 








1 3, 3 2. 7 8 * 
1 2 7. 9 5 


1 2, 9 '•1. 8 3 




13 



194 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XXV. 

MIRTHFUL YARNS. 

THE RIDICULOUS SIDE OF MILL LIFE MAY AF- 
FORD AMUSEMENT TO THE READER. 

There is a wise saw which reads : "All work and no 
play makes Jack a dull boy.'^ While we are learning to 
card, spin and weave it may not be amiss to pause and 
note some of the funny things which happen now and 
then to lighten the burden. It is a inistaken notion 
many men have that in order to be dignified and hold 
responsible positions they must never smile, and that the 
face which rules must ever carry the caste of severity. 
Alas! this is unfortunate. The face that never smiles 
is like the block of marble which has not been polished, 
or like an unpainted house. It is not finished and lacks 
lustre, and does not command so much force. On the 
other hand, the bright, firm, cheerful face carries weight 
with it wherever it goes. And when it gives a courteous 
smile at the ludicrous side of things now and then in the 
right place, it betrays no weakness and strengthens the 
atmosphere. Like a little oil on a dry bearing, a well- 
meaning jest once in a while has its place. It breaks up 
the monotony and relieves the tension of strenuous ser- 
vice. The ordinary help catch the spirit and turn off 
more work. It is an erroneous idea that an overseer or 
manager should march forth among his subordinates 
carrying a club in one hand and a lash in the other. As 
the pen has been found to be mightier than the sword, 
so the man who leads is mightier than the man who 
drives. The great captains and generals of warfare 
have won the victories by their strong, valiant leader- 
ship. The same relative results can be obtained from 



MIRTHFUL YARNS. 195 

the armies of textile workers by kind, strong leadership. 
Never in the history of the art has there been such a 
strong demand for leaders instead of grim drivers and 
pushers. The great source of power should be at the 
head, like the locomotive which pulls the train. 

And so the writer has laid aside the technical side of 
the art to touch upon the ethical side. One is as neces- 
sary as the other for the expert tradesman to succeed. 
In the textile mill, as elsewhere, there are some funny 
things that take place. In this paper it is proposed to 
review some of them. 

Some years ago, before the South patterned and 
equipped its cotton mills in the most modern fashion, 
there were some funny stories about its old mills. Of 
one mill it was said that the floor of the weave room had 
sagged so much on one side that it was necessary to have 
picker sticks on one side of the looms, because the shut- 
tles would always return by gravitation and never miss 
a pick. As the South developed the tables turned. 
There remained yet in some isolated parts of New Eng- 
land a few old mills having some machinery which had 
universal joints, and the shafting, instead of being 
coupled with compression coupling, was connected by 
universal joints. In the South they delight to tell of 
such mills "up North" which did not need regulators on 
the water wheels, nor governers on the engine. If one 
end of the mill went too fast the other end would fall 
back. If the speed of the engine dropped, there was so 
much play and back-lashing in all connections that the 
momentum neutralized the difference. 

There was in a high grade mill a good fixer, who car- 
ried almost a chest full of tools in his pockets. One day 
a fixer in the adjoining section said to this walking tool 
chest: "Have you got your 24-inch monkey wrench in 
your inside vest pocket?" 



19G THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

A party of school teachers were being escorted through 
a mill. The overseer was not explaining the processes 
fast enough for them, and when they came to the carding 
room one of the bright school marms exclaimed : ^'O ! 
how fine — is this what is called a loom?'' 

A young super was being escorted through a large mill 
by the genial superintendent. Finall}' the young super 
became impressed Avith the ease and leisure with which 
this great super managed and went about his vast plant, 
and he ventured to ask him : ^'By the way, what is the 
hardest thing jou have ever had to do in connection with 
this job?" To which the great super replied: ^'The 
hardest thing I've ever had to do w^as to get the job." 

In a certain mill there was a long cloth belt which 
w^as too slack to run. It was a new belt and no one at 
this place had any experience with the care of cloth belt- 
ing. This belt was so slack that it was deemed best to 
cut off about six inches, so this was done. They were 
slow in doing this job, and while the belt was off the 
pulleys it shrank a foot. After several desperate and 
futile attempts to replace the belt onto the pulleys, it 
was decided to replace part of the piece which was re- 
moved, but it was still too short. Then they put in the 
rest of the part removed, and still it would not go on. It 
was finally found necessary to put in one foot more into 
the belt before it could be thrown on. 

A family from Canada had come to New England to 
earn a livelihood in a cotton mill. When the parents 
were told that no child under 14 years of age could be 
employed during school time, they entertained some 
fears as to their success in obtaining work. Each child 
was speedily drilled to answer properly when any offi- 
cial inquired as to his age. Finally the factory inspec- 
tor made his tour of inspection. When a member of 
this drilled family was quizzed the outcome was as fol- 



MIRTHFUL YARNS. 197 

lows: ^'How old are you, my boy?'' ^'Fourteen years.'' 
"Hold old is your sister?" "Fourteen." "How old are 
your father and mother?" "Fourteen." The whole 
family was 14 years old. 

Another case of factory inspection revealed a much 
named individual. In the mill this person's name was 
a triple measure. She had a special name for her friends 
to call her by. On the pay roll she went by a different 
name, and the school certificate disclosed that she was 
known by still another name. "How's this?" said the 
inspector. "Well," said she, "so and so is my real name, 
the name on the time book is what my mother calls me, 
and the name on the certificate is my grandmother's 
name, the name I go by." 

There was a boy in a southern mill who would, when 
the speed had slackened sufficiently, take hold of a belt 
and allow himself to be drawn up a few feet and then 
drop by gravitation. He became well accustomed to 
doing this trick, when his dexterity deceived him. One 
day he grasped the belt when the speed was too swift and 
rode completely over the shafting and landed on the 
other side without receiving a scratch. 

Said a smart overseer: "I like to hire tall hands, be- 
cause they do not have to go around into the opposite 
alley to piece ends. They can reach over the machines 
and piece the ends." 

A foreigner desired to be out for an hour or so one 
day. But, said he to the overseer, "if you cannot spare 
me, I'll not step out" — there's going to be a wedding — 
it's me that's to be married and I'd like to be present ! 



198 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XXVI. 
COMPARATIVE COST OF MANUFACTURING. 

NEW vs. OLD MACHINERY. 

The comparative cost of manufacturing when applied 
to old machinery, shows so much difference that a con- 
crete form of analysis giving the two sides of this ques- 
tion may lead those who have not fully studied the differ- 
ence, or have not had experience with old and new ma- 
chinery, to give the matter more serious attention. 

That there is a decided advantage with modern im- 
provements over antiquated processes, most all mill men 
will acknowledge. And yet there are those who have 
never taken time to lay out the difference in just so many 
figures. 

If any manager having a mill equipped with old ma- 
chinery will place alongside of the old equipment, on 
paper, the necessary machinery of the most improved 
type to accomplish what his old machinery is doing, he 
can learn for himself the relative cost of manufacturing 
in his plant. It is surprising, however, how slowly some 
men move towards making some simple improvements 
that pay for themselves the first year, and sometimes in 
less time. 

Not many years ago there was a mill equipped in its 
picker room with the old style hand-fed picker, and it 
took two men to operate the picker room. The superin- 
tendent, being of a progressive nature, longed to put in a 
self-feeding picker and run the picker room with one 
man. So deeply interested in this was he that he drew 
out on paper the comparative cost of the present and the 
proposed new way, and proved that the improved auto- 
matic machine could be paid for from the net earnings 



COMPARATIVE COST OF MANUFACTURING. 



199 



and return a profit of |100 into the mill treasury the first 
year. 

You can imagine the chagrin of this up-to-date mana- 
ger when he was turned down by the agent who read his 
figures — the agent stating that it took too much valua- 
ble time to put so many figures on paper, and suggested 
that he spend his time more to advantage. The superin- 
tendent had figured on this one evening after dinner, giv- 
ing his own resting time to show how |100 could be 
saved the first year by spending about |200 and return- 
ing the outlay besides. The second year the books would 
have showed |300 clear gain by the change. And yet he 
could not convince his principals of the immediate ad- 
vantage, so he left. 

To illustrate this lesson further, the following com- 
parative cost of manufacturing is laid out to show the 
actual difference, in a simple yvaj, in connection with 
a medium size mill : 

Cost Per Pound. 



Departments. 



Carding 

Spinning 

Preparation for loom 

Weaving 

Other costs 

Totals 



Old. 


New. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


r.oo 


.60 


1.10 


.80 


.70 


.60 


2.90 


1.80 


.25 


.20 


5.95 


4.00 



Differ- 
ence. 



Per Cent. 
.40 
.30 
.10 
1.10 
.05 



1.95 



200 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XXVIT. 
HOW TO PREVENT LABOR STRIKES. 

To prevent strikes it is uecessarv to study in detail the 
causes of strikes and remove all sources of grievances 
that are liable to precipitate them. The chief cause of 
strikes is the discontent arising from a knowledge or 
impression that insufficient wages are being paid. But 
there are many other grievances that serve to intensify 
this dissatisfaction until the strain becomes so great to 
bear that relief is found in striking. While an increase 
of wages is the chief object sought, few people would 
ever strike if they were satisfied with everything else in 
general that surround them. It is a significant fact 
that more strikes take place in the spring of the year 
than at any other period. It is at this time that the 
weather grows mild ; nature unfolds its beauty; the birds 
sing; and this lends so much charm to all who have been 
shut in at hard labor all winter, that there comes a most 
irresistible longing to be out of doors and be at rest. The 
people are tired and long to be free from toil and care, 
and if there is the strong feeling that they are oppressed 
by being paid less than they should be earning, there is a 
strong tendency for them to strike, and the much sought 
for rest comes at the same time. As it is at this time of 
the year that less clothing is required, also less fuel, and 
it is easier to go to and from work, from a business 
point of view, it is natural to wonder why it is that 
people who want more money do not strike at the au- 
tumn when the reverse of the above conditions prevail. 
At that time it is much harder to travel back and forth ; 
more fuel and clothing are required; eggs, butter and 
man^^ other articles of food are higher in price. If it 
was simply a question of means, it seems much more 



HOW TO PREVENT LABOR STRIKES. 201 

reasonable to believe that this season would be the op- 
portune time to test the wage question. But there are 
deeper matters to consider than merely that of increas- 
ing w^ages to prevent strikes. There are undercurrents 
which intensify discontentment, and they need to be 
studied, analyzed and eradicated before the object can be 
gained. 

In the first place, there must be established and main- 
tained at all times a perfect confidence between corpo- 
ration officials and their operatives. No element of sel- 
fishness nor anvthino: that could seem like selfishness 
should ever be permitted to enter and mar that confi- 
dence. Help should be more carefully engaged and each 
engagement should be based on a strong mutual under- 
standing. The help should be constantly kept in closest 
touch with the company's best interests. The company, 
in turn, should keep in closest touch with the help's best 
interest by extending to them the co-operative sympathy 
they need. The most courteous attention should be 
manifested toward them from the treasurer or agent 
down to second hand. The managing faculty should 
make it a point to extend special sympathy in cases of 
sickness or death in any family. A bouquet of flowers 
sent by the agent of the company with letter of sympa- 
thy, and accompanied with cards of the person's over- 
seer and second hand, and sent by special messenger, 
would prove a favor that would be remembered all 
through life by that person and the bereaved members of 
the family. It would also be well to remember them in 
similar kind Avays upon occasions of marriage, births, 
etc. Anything that can be done to beautify their home 
surroundings, deepen their interest in church work and 
inspire them to be thrifty and saving would be deeply 
appreciated by them, and these personal favors would 
lead them to feel that they could not do too much for 
their employer, even though their pay seemed small. 



202 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

For those who have no homes, good boarding houses 
should be provided. No dirt should be allowed to ac- 
cumulate arund their homes. If homes are not owned 
by the corporation, appeal should be made to the proper 
town or city officials to have this order of claanliness 
carried out. Help cannot do their best when hampered 
by foul air and filthy surroundings. They should also 
be encouraged to keep good hours and eat right and 
maintain personal cleanliness and attractiveness. These 
suggestions could be harmlessly thrown out at free lec- 
tures made attractive by popular and clean amusements. 
Help that are well housed, well fed, properly clothed and 
not over-tired can do most for their employers and are 
worth more. To pay them more would be a gain mu- 
tually instead of a losing issue. Such staple commodi- 
ties as flour, oil, fuel, etc., might be kept in stock by the 
corporations and sold to their employees at reduced cost. 
They could afford to buy in large quantities at wholesale 
rates and sell same at only slight advances to cover cost 
of handling and a small profit. It should be taught in 
schools, churches and the press that striking is wrong; 
doing injury that is irreparable. Working hours should 
be uniform in every State of the Union and so far as pos- 
sible throughout the civilized world. Eight hours should 
constitute a day's work universally, and this law re- 
spected and protected. 

Lastly, the matter of periodical rests or vacations is 
one that should not be overlooked. Factory hands, like 
professional and commercial men, become fatigued and 
need vacations. The fact that they work with their 
hands renders it no less imperative that they require va- 
cations. Many of them labor with their brains as well 
as with their hands. Some of them know more than 
their principals. They are business people of another 
degree and it is highly essential that they, too, should 
have vacations. Factory hands should have two vaca- 



HOW TO PREVENT LABOR STRIKES. 203 

tions annually. There should be a vacation of from 
two to four weeks during July or August, and another 
brief period of rest extending from Christmas until after 
New Year's day — say 10 days. This should be impera- 
tive and so mutually understood that the help would look 
forward to this, lay by in advance for this time of rest 
and welcome each period with thanksgiving. Fatigue 
is the great forerunner of the strike. Keep the help 
well paid, well rested, extend to them the most courteous 
regard, fill their environments with every encourage- 
ment — such as enforced cleanliness within and without 
their homes — even giving them free flower seeds would 
not be a losing issue. Extend to them the kindliest re- 
gard for their special times of joys and sorrows, carry- 
ing forward the good old-time custom, so far as possible, 
when the factory owner knew personally each one of his 
hands and considered it part of his daily duty to help 
uplift his flock mentally, morally and spiritually, and at 
Christmas time wished them a Merry Christmas by send- 
ing each family as good a turkey as could grace his own 
table. If this spirit lives in the hearts of the corporation 
managers and bears fruit on every hand as it should, this 
same spirit will live in the hearts of their employees and 
assert itself in abundant good works on evety hand. To 
sum up in as few words as possible, the golden rule 
should be the basis of the governing policy, and then the 
"rose shall grow in place of the thorn,'' and it will not 
be necessary to kill the strike; for under the above cir- 
cumstances it could not live long and would die a nat- 
ural death. And forever after the pearly gates of the 
mills would be opened by the operatives as joyfully in 
the morning as the pearly gates of their homes would be 
joyfully opened at close of day, and all these pearly gates 
would swing on their hinges without squeaking. Mu- 
tual prosperity would reign supreme and the joys of the 
one would be the joys of the other. 



204 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

XXVIII. 
TESTING STRENGTH OF YARNS. 

HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE BREAKING STRENGTH 

OF THREADS. 

It would seem that testing the strength of yarns is a 
simple process, and yet there are valuable points in con- 
nection therewith which count for or against the same, 
as in every other branch of the trade. 

A study of these points may be of interest to those who 
have hitherto paid no attention to them, and may aid 
others towards getting better average results when test- 
ing their yarns. 

The first matter to have attention is the yarn testing 
machine itself. This machine must be plumb and all 
working parts should be clean, oiled and move freely. 
Next give the tester a proof test by suspending from the 
dial hook 100 pounds of any convenient material, say one 
or two cast iron weights. If the pointer registers the 
weight correctly it is now in condition to test the yarn. 
Care should be taken that the dial pointer is at zero or 
starting point when the lever weight is hanging plumb. 
If the machine does not weigh correctly it can be regu- 
lated by raising or lowering the adjustable weight on 
the lever. There is a set screw at back of the weight for 
this purpose. When properly adjusted the lever should 
be marked to show where it belongs; so that only a 
glance shows as to whether it has been tampered with. 

Having the yarn tester right, the next thing to do is 
to have the yarn right. The object of the testing is not 
only to detect weak work and how poor yarn is, but to 
see how good or how strong it can be made and to keep it 
up to standard by daily tests. Be sure tliat the processes 



TESTING STRENGTH OF YARNS. 205 

are right and all parts in order that make up the yarn. 
Take no less than eight bobbins or skeins and reel off 80 
threads of 120 yards, or if yarn is very coarse, as, for 
example, No. 5, take one-half or even one-quarter of this 
amount, i. e., 40 or 20 threads. This should be reeled 
with firm, even tension, so that no slack rounds find their 
way into the skein. Should there be one or more slack 
rounds in the skein there will be no pull on them at the 
test, and the strain will be thrown onto and borne by the 
remaining threads of the skein and thus reduce the aver- 
age strength. Another important matter at the reel is 
to tie the two ends of the skein securely together and at 
as near the tension of the skein around reel as possible. 
This is more important than thought of by many who 
do this work. To illustrate : Take a skein of yarn that 
should break at 160 pounds, and suppose the two ends 
are not tied together; there is not only the loss of pull 
on these two insecured ends, but also a loss on the ends 
immediately adjoining them which are permitted to give 
and slip by. This evil may bring on a lower record of 5 
per cent in the strength. 

Lastly, how to use the testing machine is as important 
to consider. Place the skein on the hook. Spread the 
threads out very evenly along on each hook to avoid one 
or more ends of over-riding. An over-riding thread has 
to bear more strain and will impair the test. All being 
in readiness, commence to turn the crank at a smooth 
pace of about 125 revolutions per minute, care being 
taken not to slacken, or accelerate, or to turn by jerks. 
( To run same by a belt would be better. ) 

For want of attention to all these points it frequently 
occurs that good yarn gives a very poor test, and at- 
tempts to improve the yarn, of course, are futile. It 
can also be said that yarns not expected to be of supe- 
rior strength show no record and causes sore heads. But 



206 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

if care is taken to test under right conditions, this same 
yarn will give a fair record. 

Before closing these instructions it is well to advise 
in regard to comparative testing, thus: If No. 8 yarn 
breaks at a standard of 210 pounds, it is unfair to ex- 
pect yarn to compare at this standard, that is to say, 
8:25. The proportionate allowance must always be 
made for the exact size of yarn. Yarns made from 
wastes or above average stock will vary accordingly. 
Unnatural twisting will also affect the results. Thus 
filling will not break same as warp. Soft twisted yarns 
break at less pull than standard, as will also over-twisted 
yarns. 



COUNTS OF YARN. 207 

XXIX. 
COUNTS OF YARN. 

THE PROPER METHOD OF KEEPING NUMBERS IN 

A COTTON MILL. 

[Written for " Fibre and Fabric." ] 

Keeping the different counts right in a cotton mill re- 
quires careful training and good judgment, coupled with 
the largest amount of willingness to work hard over de- 
tails and prove figures be^^ond a doubt. The man who 
wants to keep his counts close to the die must be willing 
to work and not be bashful about asking his followers to 
weigh often and re- weigh until he knows positivel}^ that 
his numbers are at a certain definite point. The object 
of the close number keeper is to cast the die without 
undue variation, and not by averaging a wide range of 
variation. That is, if a yarn maker is asked to main- 
tain his yarns at, say. No. 28.60, and he gets this average 
from a variation of 26.50 to 29.50, he is far from being 
a good yarn maker. But if he secures this end by a 
slight variation of 50 points above or below his standard 
and maintains his goods within this range, it can be said 
that this man is doing some hard work himself and ob- 
serving closely the varying conditions which upset the 
counts and meets these conditions squarely on their own 
ground. 

On yarns as coarse as No. 12 the variations in counts 
should be, of course, much less than counts of No. 30's at 
No. 12, a variation of .25 either way need not be ex- 
ceeded. So that a maker of No. 12's yarn would secure 
his average from a range of 11.75 to 12.25. In fact, one 
of the ablest and best cotton manufacturers in New Eng- 
land uses a great deal of yarn approximating 12.75. He 
frequently finds it necessary to adjust his standard to 



208 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

meet varying requirements. For several months he may 
want his varn to size on an average of 12.60. There- 
after he may want the standard changed to 12.70 for a 
period of three months. His assistants are such close 
followers that he never fails to get the average Avithin 
one or tAvo points of the standards set by him. This is 
what is classed as expert service at number keeping. On 
yarns finer than 30 the range of variation increases, but 
the minimum range of variation must be jealously 
guarded. 

Now, the questions arise, what is the best way to size 
or weigh the parcels; hoAv often to weigh them, and 
where to begin to keep the numbers? These are perti- 
nent questions. The answers to these questions are sim- 
ple enough. The student learns them easily, but many 
of them do not like the hard work attending it, and lose 
the training and power to carry out the standards. 
There are many older heads who can answer these ques- 
tions, but owing to the fact that some of them draw the 
line at the work-side of the case, giving careless atten- 
tion to details, is the reason why they are poor hands at 
keeping numbers. The one great answer Avhicli covers 
the ground well is work. How to do this Avork is the 
object of this paper. The proper place to begin to keep 
numbers is in the picker room. Mix the cotton very 
Avell, even if one grade of cotton is used alone, it does not 
follow that at times the picker can be fed Avith one or 
a few bales from the same lot at a time. For even in 
the same lot of cotton there are widely different bales. 
And eA^en in a single bale of cotton there may be found 
great variation of color, staple and quality. Hence it 
follows that it is best to mix a couA^enient but large num- 
ber of bales, whether of one high grade lot of cotton or of 
varying lots. In using several grades made up of long 
and short fibres, tinges and quality, extreme care must 



COUNTS OF YARN. 209 

be given to maintain the same degree of mixings from 
week to week. That is, as each h>t runs out, to replace 
it with as similar a lot as possible. To secure the best 
modern openings is to have a bale breaker which is ar- 
ranged to carry the opened cotton to any part of the 
space holding the opened goods. In this way cotton can 
be opened in one spot while i*: is being used from another 
plot. The pile Avhich is being hi nit up and left to stand 
for some hours, while not being drawn from, is b(^coming 
Avell aired or acclimated to local air and is less suscep- 
tible to opposing or counteracting forces. If it is dryer 
than the local atmosphere it \> ill i>,ain the difference, and 
vice versa. Then the temperatu^H^ adjusts itself. When 
cotton is rushed through before these adjustments are 
naturally brought on, the attendants must cross swords 
with electricity. This causes uneven delivery, and is 
one of the sources of split laps. Another evil is that of 
cloesiino: the machines and causlno: break downs. When 
mixings are thus conditioned, machines in good working 
order, properly oiled and speeded, the laps will be 
smooth, even, and vary only little. However, every lap 
from the final process should be weighed and tallied. 
Laps varying more than one-half pound from the stand- 
ard should l)e re-worked. The finished laps should be 
placed into three groups, viz., those that weigh "on the 
dot'' in one group and those weighing immediately under 
or over the standard, but not varying over one-half 
pound, in the other two separate groups. The next 
thing to do is to see that the card tenders do not use the 
heavier laps faster than the lighter ones. Tliis means 
close application to duty by all hands, but becomes 
easily understood when the system is established. 

Next in order of importance are the railway heads or 
drawing frames. Many mills have discarded the use of 
railway heads, so-called. It has been proven that with 
14 



210 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

equal attention to the former processes the numbers are 
as even without railway or self-evening drawing frame 
as with them. And unless the self-evening frame is well 
understood and properly taken care of, it will render 
the work more uneven than when not used. In years 
back, when carding departments were smaller and re- 
sponsible help roved loss, the self-evening frame was 
closely observed and the sliver from same was weighed 
every two hours, the work was fairly even. They were 
regulated closely. The same man weighed the sliver 
from these machines year after year. And in those days 
an overseer and his assistant had little else to do but to 
watch his numbers. Speeds were low, and it was their 
chief aim and pride to excel in keeping their counts on 
the point. However, things have changed in recent 
years. Carding rooms are very large, speed is high, and 
the duties of overseers and their assistants have multi- 
plied even faster; so that with a large number of self- 
regulating drawing frames, to look out for the weighing 
of same is perhaps done only twice a day and by a less 
responsible person, who may be changed as often as there 
are seasons, it can be seen that there is a vast opportu- 
nity to make more uneven work than without them. 

The old style evening frame which starts to even with 
the variation of sliver in the trumpet at the front of the 
machine, is of no use for modern standards. The sooner 
they are thrown out and a double system or triple system 
of drawing frame process of five or six doublings is in- 
stalled, the more perfect the counts will be, and a great 
improvement made. 

But the writer still maintains that the modern self- 
evening drawing head that detects the unevenness at the 
back instead of the front and regulates so as to even the 
spot before leaving the drawing rolls, if given the atten- 
tion it needs and the attendant thoroughly understands 



COUNTS OF YARN. 211 

the machine, it will make even work, and takes the place 
of one process of regular drawing frames. But consider- 
ing the poor chances of getting a good weigher, the 
writer prefers to even the work without them. Having 
the preliminary process cared for, as outlined, precludes 
the necessity of self-evening beyond the finisher lappers. 

Having a first-class man at the finisher lappers in a 
small room, or a lapper room boss in a large mill who 
can be relied upon to see that laps are kept even and who 
turns in his reports daily into the office, will make good 
work. The picker room is the place to begin to work 
upon the count keeping. 

It is important that the overseer of carding and even 
the superintendent weigh a lap or two when going their 
rounds to prove the efficiency of the service. 

The next proof of the efficiency work in the picker 
room is, to weigh the stock from the drawing frames. 
Weighing a few yards from each of the finished draw- 
ing work twice each day is sufficient. The result should 
be carefully recorded and filed for reference and com- 
parisons. 

After this the least process of roving should be weighed 
twice daily. The morning samples should be sent to the 
spinning department to be immediately entered. 

It is a good plan to weigh all the stock from the roving 
making machines often enough to satisfy that each re- 
spective machine is uniform with the similar process of 
other machines. And when this is done it is well to 
weigh the roving on the bobbin at three different sizes, 
viz: nearly empty, one-half full, and when full. This 
will prove positively as to whether the roving is given a 
uniform tension from start to finish. Roving that 
starts with moderate tension and becomes tight ten- 
sioned, or vice versa, is uneven; and, besides, is strained 
and weakened. 



212 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

The oerseer of carding should, when sending his sam- 
ple roving to be made into yarn, also accompany same 
Avith a list of the weights and mark each roving what it 
weighs respectively. 

The overseer of spinning will weigh the yarn made 
from this roving Avhen the bobbins are one-third to one- 
half filled. As a rule, yarn from the empty bobbin is 
a bit lighter and the yarn from a full bobbin is a little 
heavier. Taking bobbins when one-half full gives aver- 
aged conditions. 

The spinner will also take a random lot of bobbins 
and weigh at the same time. The result of these Aveigli- 
ings should be recorded in triplicate, one to be sent to 
the overseer of carding and one to the superintendent's 
otlice, and the other kept on file. Besides giving the 
average of the counts it is Avell to also state the lightest 
and heaviest weighing in each trial and draw out the 
variation. The object of this is to bring out the points 
that count prominently before the vision, and promote 
interest and care to confine things to as near perfection 
as possible. 

The use of the reel and scale is a matter of study. 
Warp bobbins should be unwound in same manner as 
when spooled. To draw the yarn from over the top of 
the b()bl)ins is improper. Do not reel too fast. The 
reeling should be done slowly and firmly, so as to give 
the yarn a uniform tension. In reeling filling which 
must be pulled from over the top of the bobbins, a uni- 
form tension can be secured by winding the ends around 
the thread guide wires twice. 

In turning the reel do not depend entirely on the 
mental or oral counting of the revolutions. Check the 
counting by the signal from the gong and that makes 
the count doubly sure. 

Weighing on grain scales is another case for study. 



COUNTS OF YARN. 21 



o 



The scales should always be balanced before using. A 
bit of lint or small particle of dust may make a differ- 
ence of several grains and upset the best intentions. It 
is a well-known fact that sensitive as grain scales are, 
a small skein of yarn can be balanced on the light or 
heavy side of its actual Aveiglit. The proper wa^^ to 
weigh is to always keep the weight or counterpoise on 
the scale beam moving outward slowly until the tenths 
of a grain are known. It is unfair to give or take and 
call the weight on even or half grains. Do not borrow 
nor lend, find the tenth parts. To push the Aveight in on 
one skein and out on another does not give each skein 
a similar test. Therefore to weigh properly and to give 
each weighing a similar test, always bring the weight 
back so that the beam is up, and gradually push the 
counterpoise out until the beam falls to a balance. To 
w^eigh otherwise and expect close figures is as reasonable 
as to expect that a fox can walk a fence after his tail 
has been shot off. After having weighed each skein all 
variations will be shown. But the actual number 
should be proven by weighing all the skeins at one time. 
The quantity weighings should always govern the actual 
number and not the individual weighings. Just as the 
Aveighing of a section beam full of yarn, or the weigh- 
ing of a cut of cloth or the total Aveighings of all the 
cloth made during a Aveek, determines, after all, the 
actual counts, and that is what must govern the preced- 
ing standards of the smaller group Aveighings. Of 
course, if yarn is Avanted a certain size in the cloth it 
must be remembered that it must be made enough lieaAder 
at the spinning frames to alloAV for stretching at the 
spoolers, AA^arpers, slashers and in the looms. All the 
processes Avill shrink and reduce the size and bulk of 
yarns. 

Lasth^, never decide to make a change because one set 



214 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

of weighings shows light or heavy. Several tests may 
prove that the yarn is just where it is desired, one to 
four bobbins at each weighing, as done in many mills, 
is entirely wrong and insufficient to go by. Eight to 
sixteen bobbins to set is none too many to determine 
which way the work is moving. 

It must also be borne in mind that numbers that 
weigh one number heavy on a damp day and one number 
lighter than the standard on a cold dry day or on a hot 
dry day, are all the same. The weather should be re- 
corded with each weighing, and comparisons will soon 
determine what allowances to make for the weather and 
when the work is abnormally light or heavy. 

To illustrate the point roughly, take No. 30 yarn as 
a standard. If this yarn sizes 29 for two days as a 
result of two days' dampness and later 31 because of ex- 
cessive dryness, there has been no actual variation. It 
is all No. 30 yarn, and with the normal conditions these 
yarns would have weighed alike, barring actual varia- 
tions. And with the return of normal weather these 
differences adjust themselves; the heavy work caused by 
dampness will dry out and weigh right, and the lighter 
work will regain its normal moisture. Hence it can be 
seen that to change the size of yarn or roving before 
there is any actual variation that is proved by repeated 
tests is not the right method. 

To sum up the business of keeping numbers, the inter- 
ested parties should be given daily reports of all section 
beam weighings. Prom these weighings the actual num- 
ber of yarns can be correctly derived and the variations 
here should also be noted. Section beams that weigh 
about 400 pounds should not vary over three per cent, 
or from six pounds light to six pounds heavy. If the 
slasher tenders are careful to select the beams so as to 
average every set the same, and if the official and fixing 



COUNTS OF YARN. 215 

personnel of the weave room is composed of first-class 
men who take care to keep the tensions and picks right 
at the looms, the cloth will show the minimum possible 
variation. The cloth room overseer should send a daily 
report showing average weight of cloth, together with 
the extreme variations. 

Keeping numbers in a cotton mill is an easy task and 
a very interesting branch of the trade, when a man is 
willing to work and apply himself scientifically to his 
business. 



21G THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 



XXX. 

INVENTOR'S BUSINESS, HIS CHARACTERISTICS. 

RECORD FORMS. 

The inventor, like many men in other lines of business, 
has his bundle of perplexities to unravel. Unlike other 
trades, his work carries with it the largest element of 
uncertaintv. The ordinarv tradesman can lii>'ure about 
what his work is Avorth in the market. The merchant 
can forcast, to a considerable degree of certainty, what 
his profits will amount to. The manufacturer of staple 
goods can base his income quite accurately. In all 
these lines of business; whether it is bv the tradesman 
at the bench; or manufacturing on a large scale; or 
buying and selling; the profits are governed and gauged 
by the well known laws of supply and demand. The 
inventor labors in a different field altogether. To him 
there is no well defined laws of supply and demand for 
his wares. He is the pioneer in the march of the world's 
progress and is a much needed factor in the advance- 
ment of the arts and sciences. However this may be, 
few people are Avilling to take any chances on what he 
proposes to invent. As a rule he must work alone and 
take all the risks. After he has demonstrated the actual 
worth of his improvements by creating the demand, then 
the "other fellows" are willing to share in the profits. 
On the other hand, if he fails and becomes penniless, he 
mast stand his losses alone. Often his means are lim- 
ited. His work is so fascinating that he will work day 
and night. If his work shows promise of returns, he 
will stake his last dollar upon his work. The public 
is not much concerned with his Avork until full fledged 
wonders are patented, and even then, he must demon- 



INVEXTOlfS BUSINESS — HLS CHARACTERISTICS. 217 

stiate their absiulute merit before receiving patronage. 
Sometimes inventions of great value must be pushed to 
the front Avith tireless zeal before they are received with 
favor. Often it happens that improvements of great 
merit are shelved because of an unappreciative public. 
This lack of appreciation is sometimes caused by the 
great expense which would be incurred by their general 
adoption. An invention may be considerably- ahead of 
its time and generation. To be of commercial value, and 
become generally adopted, an invention must be adapted 
to the needs of the current time, and be Avithin the pur- 
chasing power of the market sought. 

Notwithstanding all possible drawbacks, the inven- 
tor's business is, on the whole, remunerative. The re- 
muneration inav not alwavs be represented in monev. 
Many inventors consider themselves fairly A^'ell repaid 
for the experience gained — even if not remunerated in 
money for their undertaking. The deep interest and 
fascination AN'ith which the faithful inventor is overtaken, 
as he proceeds with his developments, repay to a con- 
siderable extent. But the hope of a well earned fortune 
is the greatest compensation sought. It is through these 
various inducements that inventors are led on and be- 
come the world's greatest benefactors. Few of them 
care to work for nothing. All seek to discover some- 
thing worth patenting, and not all inventors die poor. 
Immense wealth has been amassed by inventor's of sim- 
ple things too numerous to mention. And, to-day, there 
is even more room for improvements than ever. All the 
inventions of the past have simpl}^ paved the way for a 
countless list of other needful things. The field is even 
broader, as fresh and resourceful and as inexhaustible 
as ever. The experience of the past, with the available 
records of all that has been patented in all lines of work 
at his disposal, are invaluable to the studious and i^ro- 



218 THE MANAGEMENT OF COTTON MILLS. 

gressive iuveiitor. The future prospects of the iu^'eutor 
are Ji)rig]iter thau ever. 

The average man of creative geuius is uot as metliodical 
as he sliould be. The reasons for this are that his Avork 
is fascinating beyond expression. Ideas flash through 
liis brain with such rapid succession that his mind is 
restless and captivated. He lives in the whirlwinds of 
expectancy. To-day he lives Avith ideas that coin Avealth 
so fast that his expected riches may be too bulky. To- 
morrow lie discovers obstacles that are insurmountable 
and his proposed wealth vanishes. With the mind so 
actively engaged in drawing out order from choas; de- 
veloping ideas into material form, and the form being 
changed continually before assuming the normal stage, 
it is exceedingly difficult for the inventor to have com- 
plete records and haA-e hard set rules and methods Avith 
AAliich to gOA^ern his moA^ements. It often occurs that 
the object Avhich he starts to invent is, in the end, an 
entirely different instrument from tliat which was first 
conceived, and, furthermore, it can also be stated that 
the line or class of improA-ement sought, by the magic 
Avorker, opens other lines to him, and his Avork may drift 
and become akin to distinctly another class. 

The object of this article, AAdiile touching upon some 
peculiar characteristics of the practical inventor, is to 
assist him to be methodical, so far as feasible, without 
hampering the progress of the Avould-be rapid Avorker. 

In the first place, an inventor should have a large file 
case Avith plenty of drawers. This need not be expen- 
sive, and should be so arranged that all can be locked 
simultaneously either by a door covering all or by a slid- 
ing lattice. Next, the rapid thinker should have one or 
two blocks or pads of paper with him. Wlienever ideas 
of inventions arise, they can be pencilled and filled daily 
in case same should be Avauted for future deAdopment. 



IXTE^'TOR'S BrSIXESS — niS CITArvACTEllISTICS. 211) 

Anotlicr hnportaiit matter to pursue is that of reeord- 
iujj;- dates, aud uauie of pai*ts so far as practical)l(\ This 
system is of more Aalue to the ordinary inventor than 
is taken into account by his junior competitors. A list 
of the progressive development of his work and contain- 
Ino- data complete often proves of inestimable value in 
aiding the courts to decide the priority of invention. It 
is a good plan to keep the original crude and rough 
models which should be labelled and dated. 

To save time, it is well to have forms with printed 
headings covering the ground work or outline of particu- 
lars usually wanted witli all inventions of patentable 
value. 

All these modern methods save time and relieve the 
mind ; keeping it fresher and freer to work out the prob- 
lems under consideration. The method of filing ones' 
ideas precludes the possibility of loosing sight of a val- 
uable idea by forgetting. 

FoR>[ Xo. 1. 

IXVENTOK'S RECORD. 
Undkveloi'kd Ideas, 



Date. 


Description. 


11)04. 




August 10 


Adjustable top cleaner for leather covered rolls. 


11 


Electrically driven spindle for spinning frames. 


12 


Sectional book for general otHce use. 



Form Xo. 1 sho^\'s a blank sheet upon which to record 
these ideas as they come up from time to time. 

Form No. 2 is of special value to the inventor. Giv- 
ing, as it does, a complete working record, together 
with all data as to costs of materials, this cffors positive 
and conclusive evidence which could not be recalled from 
mere memory faculty. 



22Q 



TIIE MANAGEME]ST OF COTTON MILLS. 



For a further and more complete record of description 
and specifications, this form can be indexed to the 
volume and page of a ledger where same can be found 
including sales, disposals and the final outcome of th(^ 
project as shown h\ form Xo. 2. 



Form No, 2, 



INVENTOR'S RECORD. 



Date. 



Progressive Dev ek/i )ment. 



1904. 
August 12 Working plans sketched. 

Purchased materials with wliich to make a 
model List of materials : 



18 



Sept. 
Oct. 



14 ]ModeI commenced. 
2s I Model finished. 
2(S j Caveat tiled. 

1 i Patent applied for in United States. 

2 I Patent applied for in Canada. 
1905, ! 

Feb. 5 j Patent granted in United States. 
18 I Patent granted in Canada. 

Cost United States jtatent, $ 

Cost Canada patent 

I Materials 

j Labor 

I Caveat 

I Attorney's fees 

1 Incidentals 



Total. 



Estimated value S. 

Price received for sale 

Profit 



For further data, see vol. No , page,. Xo. 



INVENTOK'S 1!L SIXKSS HIS CHAKACTEKISTICS. 221 

Form No. 3. 

Vol. No. Page No. 

Name : 

Description 

Specification 

Claims 

Complete sale 

Partial sales 

Rights sold 

Royalties 

The tliougiitfiil iuventor should search the records 
closely before proceeding in any particular line. It may 
happen that the invention outlined, may have been al- 
ready invented and patented. A careful search of the 
class record will also disclose Avhat has been accom- 
plished by all previous workers and the inventor can 
then proceed to imj^rove the work with assurance that 
he is not laboring in the dark. 



howard &, bullough, 

American Machine Company, ltd. 
pawtucket, r. i. 



COTTON 

MACHINERY 



WE 
BUILD 



f HOPPER BALE OPENERS 
FEEDERS 

SELF FEEDING OPENERS 
BREAKER, INTERMEDIATE AND 
FINISHER LAPPERS 
REVOLVING FLAT CARDS 
DRAFTING FRAMES 
SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE AND 
ROVING FRAMES 

NEW PATTERN SPINNING FRAMES 
IMPROVED TWISTERS 
CONE AA INDERS 
TV^ARPERS AND SLASHERS 



Southern Offices: 

814-815 
Empire Building, 

ATLANTA, GA. 



BOSTON OFFICE: 
65 Franklin St. 



ARE 
YOU 



CONTEMPLATING ANY ADDI- 
TION OR ALTERATION ? IF YOTJ 
ARE YOU MUST BE INTERESTED 
TO KNOAY AVHAT IS THE BEST 
FOR YOURSELF, YOUR STOCK- 
HOLDERS AND YOUR HELP. 

SEND FOR OUR ILLUSTRATED 
DESCRIPTIVE CIRCULARS. 



WE INVITE YOUR INVESTIGATION 
AND COMPARISON. 




Ti' Mccormick turbine 



Unequalled in Efficiency 
Simple in Construction 
Strong and durable in all its Parts 
Hundreds used in Textile Mills 



IF INTERESTED 
IN WATER POWER DEVELOPMENT 
WRITE FOR LARGE ILLUSTRATED 

CATALOG U E 



S. Morgan Smith Company 

YORK, PA. 

BOSTON OFFICE, 176 FEDERAL ST. 



MAR 221906 



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^ 



Providence Oil 
Works 



MANUFACTURERS OF HIGH-GRADE 

Cylinder^ Engine. Machinery Oils 

Stainless, Spindle, Wool, Dynamo and Screw 
:inq Oils 



^ 



Remember that our 



P. 0. W. Lubricating Grease | 

will work in any place. It is not affected $ 

by heat or cold. ^ 



Try Our Axle, Gear and Elevator Greases 



OUR SWISS BELT DRESSING 

IS A GREASE IN CHARACTER 



Leatlierene Belt Dressing in Bar Form 



A FOR EASY HANDLING 



|MARTIN=TOLMAN{ 

i 





:^i$i^^i»i$: »:»:»: »»: $:»: -^ 








^ The Separators are mounted upon the rail, thus 
maintaining a uniform weight on the lifting rods, and 
they give a more complete enclosure to the Bobbin 
thaiQ any other form used. 1[1[ The Roving-Breaker se- 
cures a great saving in waste in spinning coarse yarns. 

Correspondence is invited by the 

SAMSON CORDAGE WORKS 

88 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 






ADVANTAGES OF USING THE MARTIX - TOLMAX 
SEPARATOR FOR SPINNING FRAMES 



1. COMPLETE separation be- 

tween bobbins ALL the 
time. 

2. Whipping' of ends tog-ether 

ENTIRELY prevented. 

3. PREVENTS lint or flyingrs 

from makinsr BUNCHES 
in yarn. 

4. PREVENTS lint or flyings 

from CLOGGING travel- 
ers. 

5. Breaking of ends LESSEN- 

ED. 

6. Frames can be operated at 

HIGHER speed, 

7. Ring Rail can be PERFECT- 

LY balanced. 



8. LARGER Rings can be used 
or narrower gauge is rend- 
ered available w^hen order- 
ing new frames. 



9. 



10. 



Travelers NEVER hit Sep- a> 
arator Blades. $ 

Separator does NOT hurt or ^ 



interfere -with doffer's flng 
ers Tvhen doffing. 

11. EASIEST to keep CLEAN. 

12. EASIEST to OPERATE. 

13. SIMPLEST of construction. 

14. Frames are kept CLEAN- 

ER underneath. 

15. Cost less than others. 

16. Spinners' fingers are NOT 

injured by Separator blades. 



\ The above advantages 
^ give better quality 
^ and more production 



s 


ome of the Lead' 
Mills are now 

using this 
SEPARATOR 


ng 



AND THE 
COST GOES \ 

DOWN \ 



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018 446 195 A "' ^ 









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